Armorlite regrets?

[Oilburner]

My only regret is that Jeep didn’t offer this as a factory option ?

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[22EcoDs]

And she's done. Couple hand cuts and new words discovered. Love how it came out

 

[Armorlite_Kail]

For those of you that installed this, the rear bolts for your front seat, did they feel like flag nuts? Mine have some play in them and I am worried it's going to drop the nut. Both driver and passenger feel this way.

I have done dozens, and had zero issues with seat bolts on JL or JT. Some test vehicles have had these in and out several times again with no issue.

 

[ShastaJT6]

Those goofballs at Armorlite are off their rocker if they think Im spending $600 on a few pieces of plastic. Absolute insanity. I did bite the bullet and pick up the Bedtred version, front floors only, and put those in. I am very happy with the finished product, but I still paid ~$250 for them.. which, again, is psychotic for whats essentially some formed plastic sheet.

They just have us by the nuts on this one, but if you can stomach the 9999% markup on the product, they are nice to have.

 

[Rahkmalla]

Those goofballs at Armorlite are off their rocker if they think Im spending $600 on a few pieces of plastic. Absolute insanity. I did bite the bullet and pick up the Bedtred version, front floors only, and put those in. I am very happy with the finished product, but I still paid ~$250 for them.. which, again, is psychotic for whats essentially some formed plastic sheet.

They just have us by the nuts on this one, but if you can stomach the 9999% markup on the product, they are nice to have.

See here's the thing: it's nowhere close to "some formed plastic sheet". But as they say, "opinions formed sans facts are never changed by the introduction of facts" so i guess i'll just leave this be.

 

[ShastaJT6]

See here's the thing: it's nowhere close to "some formed plastic sheet". But as they say, "opinions formed sans facts are never changed by the introduction of facts" so i guess i'll just leave this be.

Ill give you that - they do have some insulation on the bottom as well, it is technically more than plastic, but Ive already applied Killmatz insulation to my floor panels so theres limited value added for me there.

I checked them out in person at the Jeep Adventure Academy and talked with their reps, just couldnt see what justified the price tag. Settled for the cheaper Bedtred version because I really wanted the carpets out and theyve worked well.

 

[Jefe1018]

This on my to-do list. Having dogs really doesn't help the case for having any carpet.

 

[IanNubbit]

Ill give you that - they do have some insulation on the bottom as well, it is technically more than plastic, but Ive already applied Killmatz insulation to my floor panels so theres limited value added for me there.

I checked them out in person at the Jeep Adventure Academy and talked with their reps, just couldnt see what justified the price tag. Settled for the cheaper Bedtred version because I really wanted the carpets out and theyve worked well.

Do you have any pictures or anything of the BedTred kit? I can find nothing online for both the JL and JT versions. I'm most curious about the drain plugs. My soft top likes to trricle some water down the C-Pillar which basically makes a no go for Armourlite as I noticed that my rear carpet was soaked with no signs until I took out my OEM rubber mats. I already planned on adding sound insulation in before doing a new flooring, carpet just seems like a no go, and BedTred seems right but no real info and don't want 0 access to the drain plugs.

 

[chr15m]

I've got no dogs in this fight but at least at first glance it appears the Armorlite would be significantly better at sound reflection and adsorption compared to stock as well as Bedtred, even with butyl/alumn. sheets.

Without too many words, since there are a lot of caveats even to my POV, a big part of sound deadening is trying to find a proper amount of material to reduce a specific frequencies penetration into our trucks. Lower frequencies need thicker material to reduce, road noise is usually stated be in the 1000hz range. That's fairly low and would require a pretty reasonable material thickness to treat, like >2-3" thick. That doesn't mean that thin butyl/alumn sheets don't help, but most are <1/8" thick.

Anyway, these pictures should give a pretty good idea why the Amorlites would appear to work better than stock and likely Bedtred, which appears to be even thinner than stock, which has foam coupled to the back of the carpet.

Stock vs Amorlite:

Bedtred (taken from the JL site):

Personally I 'd go Armorlite and toss some butyl/alumn sheets in as well. If the goal is simply to have a more durable surface, both Bedtred and Armorlite would likely surpass stock.

If cost is the primary concern, Bedtred does win there, if you throw out spending nothing and keeping stock, lol (no ones going to do that).

 

[22EcoDs]

Can attest that to my ears on the diesel JT, it is quieter. Now I need to figure out the hard top and windshield channel.

 

[Minty JL]

Zero fuckin regrets. Take literally 5 minutes to vacuum my truck out now. Probably should be a top 3 mod for any Jeep if it's not a mall crawler.

Still looking to add it to my wife's '19 JLUR now, wise I installed it in there when we bought it back in 2019. Takes me up to an hour to vacuum it out after a trip to the beach

 

[ecidiego]

Zero fuckin regrets. Take literally 5 minutes to vacuum my truck out now. Probably should be a top 3 mod for any Jeep if it's not a mall crawler.

Still looking to add it to my wife's '19 JLUR now, wise I installed it in there when we bought it back in 2019. Takes me up to an hour to vacuum it out after a trip to the beach

Use a leaf blower. Takes 30 seconds.

My rear window is leaking, need to pull up the Armorlite to check for puddles.

@Armorlite_Kail what's your stance on water getting underneath it? Is removal necessary or will it dry out somehow?

 

[Minty JL]

Use a leaf blower. Takes 30 seconds.

My rear window is leaking, need to pull up the Armorlite to check for puddles.

@Armorlite_Kail what's your stance on water getting underneath it? Is removal necessary or will it dry out somehow?

Leaf blower just throws the hair and shit into the air and lands on the seats..........not productive

 

[chorky]

Bringing this one back - anyone have any issues with wear on theirs after a year or two?

 

[Pliny]

I regret not knowing the following before doing the install last week:

1.) For the under seat ducts in both the factory carpet and the Armorlite flooring there are oval holes with relief cuts at the round ends of the ovals to allow the ducts to pass through. On my front passenger side Armorlite the relief cuts were shifted relative to the oval. So much so that although the cuts on the door side were there, the relief cuts didn't make it all of the way to the oval. I didn't notice this until it was installed, and was wondering "Why are the wires going to the passenger seat getting mashed like that?" It was easy enough to complete the cuts, but would have been easier to do before it was installed. Not the most clear picture, but you can see the center console side cuts and resulting flap, can just barely make out the cuts on the door side. This is before I fixed it:

2.) For the front door electrical connectors there is a tab / latch on the mount that the body side of the connector attaches to. Prying the tab away from the connector lets you slide the connector half down towards the floor to free it from the mount. When re-installing, can mate the two halves of the connector first, then slide it onto the mount.

3.) The accelerator pedal assembly is attached by that single screw. Removing the screw let me move the assembly up out of the way and rest it on the brake pedal so that I could see / access that carpet post hiding behind the accelerator.

4.) When installing the front pieces, have something small and thin that can fit through the holes for the carpet posts. I used the smallest little ignition wrench I had, or something like a paint can opener might work. Once you have the Armolite under the pieces of trim and onto some of the carpet posts, finding yourself looking at this:

Lets you stick the tool in the hole, grab the edge of the post enough to lift / shift the Armorlite the rest of the way into place.

5.) When installing the drain plugs, not only does the drain plug opening in the Armorlite need to be centered on the opening in the metal floor, but the Armorlite also needs to lie flat against the metal floor. This is where I had the most struggle with the passenger side front because as it sat there, the drain plug hole in the Armorlite was raised up above the hole in the floor. Even when I did get the drain plug installed enough to hear the "click" of the drain plug snapping into the metal floor, stopping forcing the Armorlite down allowed it to pop the drain plug back out. The two places where there was interference causing it to not lie flat are highlighted below:

(There is a really big socket jammed under the flooring propping it up for this picture.) In the red area there is a bump out in the metal floor for that stud that the wiring chase / trim clips piece attaches to. There is a corresponding bump out in the flooring. Problem was that when the drain hole was centered and pushed down to the floor, the bump out in the flooring was riding way up on the bump out in the metal floor.

In the blue area there is the "cross rail" that runs between the door sill area and the center console area that the front bolts of the seat rails bolt into. The flooring has bends to get up and over the cross rail, but it doesn't have a bump out for that side part of the cross rail in the blue area.

I ended up peeling away most of the underside padding in these two areas. That allowed the flooring to lie closer to the metal floor, and the drain plug to stay in place once installed.

I suspect that there are manufacturing tolerances when the pieces that make up the floor are welded / glued together. I'd guess that the piece with the drain hole in the floor was shifted towards the door, while the cross rail is shifted towards the center console. I didn't have any issues installing the driver's side front flooring, and although I didn't measure it on the driver's side that cross rail section bump highlighted in blue didn't seem as if it protruded as much into where the flooring wanted to sit.

6.) When re-installing the front sills make sure that if any of the white clips in the foot area stuck to the post and didn't come off with the front sill, to remove the white clips from the posts and install back into the sill panel.

7.) It took two 6 mm washers to raise up the post that the jack base slides under for it to fit since the Armorlite is thicker than the carpet.

Hope that this information helps someone doing their own install.

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