ShadowsPapa
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Bill
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2019
- Threads
- 180
- Messages
- 29,591
- Reaction score
- 35,202
- Location
- Runnells, Iowa
- Vehicle(s)
- '22 JTO, '23 JLU, '82 SX4, '73 P. Cardin Javelin
- Occupation
- Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
- Vehicle Showcase
- 3
LOVE how the lights fit - they slipped right into place on my 2020 OVERLAND bumper. I have the full safety package with the sensors, etc. etc. and I was watching closely those who did some "trimming" on the lights due to that bolt with the clip in the bumper.
But I tried to forget the experiences of others and thought I'd approach it from the standpoint of pretending I'd never seen a lick of feedback, never saw how anyone else did it. I was able to rotate the light so it was outer end down a bit, tip into place behind that bolt and then rotate the light into place. Seriously, the light install took less than 5 minutes each. I had them in the bumper in 10 minutes and that's accounting for not realizing my sensor wires were clipped to the factory reflectors and running back to my shop for cutters.
In short, IMO, the light fitment is perfect. IF there was a spot to clip that sensor wire back into place, emulating the factory reflector tab that would be cool but not really worth changing the castings for that. The wires have another clip up high and just pulled them up there and strapped them even higher.
Assuming the casting shape is also for cooling, I tried to keep the backs or fin-side open and wires away from the fins. I have LED industrial shop lighting in my shop and it's scary how hot the cooling fins on those get.
I have some trouble putting together the tail light pigtail to the Oracle adapter harness connector. I think in the end it was sealed so tightly I was trying to compress air! I triple-checked and all pins looked fine, it felt like a spring when I was trying to reconnect the tail light itself to their connector. Finally a big push and I could swear I hear air squeak out of the connector and then the familiar, welcome "click" and it was in.
The leads on the lights themselves I'd say are perfect for those using the clip-on process. They must be the same length, as they are, and the length there seems to be fine.
The "adapter harness" - the lead for the left is PLENTY long, in fact I have mine looped and clipped tight in the tail light channel of my truck. Plenty there.
If there's ever a revision of that harness - it would cost you nothing in materials to take 2 or 3" of the left harness lead and instead make the harness lead to the right light that much longer. Same amount of copper, same amount of cost in the end.
Take from L to add to R, net change - 0
Again, I tried it from the standpoint of being the first ever to install these, like I'd never seen any pictures or read any comments. I tried each hole going down and out to get that right lead through. The bottom hole leaves it about 2-3" short. The next hole up leave it about 2" short, then where I ran it was STILL short but was the closest of any of them. I spent extra time on the wiring, testing literally every way out of that tail light chamber area - and every one of them was worse than the very top one out. And that makes sense as the lower you go, you lose another inch or so of wire going down vertically before you make that turn to the right. Down another hole, you lose another inch before it turns right. So logic even says - out the first hole you can and turn right fast.
My comments on vehicle wiring - take a look at vehicles in the last few decades - nothing dangles, nothing can swing, no loops spots for vibration. Everything in and under that truck is carefully calculated for length and strapping. Those straps aren't there to annoy the people assembling things - they are there to prevent shaking and moving wires. As I was under mine I checked every wire under that truck - you can't move them and none of them move a lick as you push and pull. They stay put.
Where I live - how many have seen chunks of ice and snow hanging from a vehicle as if by magic? Likely hanging on a WIRE to the tail light! That snow or ice swings and pulls. IF your wires aren't strapped every few inches and close to the frame or chassis - they get yanked loose. I've done most of my automotive wiring work in the spring - after the snow and ice is gone. Broke wires, wires pulled out of sockets, you name it.
Take a piece of copper tubing - nice and supple at first - now flex it back and forth..... it hardens and eventually breaks. Same for wire.
Yes, I'm picky as hell, and even OCD at times, but there's reasons for a lot of things we see. (not always - like the hood release location on some cars - what the #$%#$ were they thinking??)
But I tried to forget the experiences of others and thought I'd approach it from the standpoint of pretending I'd never seen a lick of feedback, never saw how anyone else did it. I was able to rotate the light so it was outer end down a bit, tip into place behind that bolt and then rotate the light into place. Seriously, the light install took less than 5 minutes each. I had them in the bumper in 10 minutes and that's accounting for not realizing my sensor wires were clipped to the factory reflectors and running back to my shop for cutters.
In short, IMO, the light fitment is perfect. IF there was a spot to clip that sensor wire back into place, emulating the factory reflector tab that would be cool but not really worth changing the castings for that. The wires have another clip up high and just pulled them up there and strapped them even higher.
Assuming the casting shape is also for cooling, I tried to keep the backs or fin-side open and wires away from the fins. I have LED industrial shop lighting in my shop and it's scary how hot the cooling fins on those get.
I have some trouble putting together the tail light pigtail to the Oracle adapter harness connector. I think in the end it was sealed so tightly I was trying to compress air! I triple-checked and all pins looked fine, it felt like a spring when I was trying to reconnect the tail light itself to their connector. Finally a big push and I could swear I hear air squeak out of the connector and then the familiar, welcome "click" and it was in.
The leads on the lights themselves I'd say are perfect for those using the clip-on process. They must be the same length, as they are, and the length there seems to be fine.
The "adapter harness" - the lead for the left is PLENTY long, in fact I have mine looped and clipped tight in the tail light channel of my truck. Plenty there.
If there's ever a revision of that harness - it would cost you nothing in materials to take 2 or 3" of the left harness lead and instead make the harness lead to the right light that much longer. Same amount of copper, same amount of cost in the end.
Take from L to add to R, net change - 0
Again, I tried it from the standpoint of being the first ever to install these, like I'd never seen any pictures or read any comments. I tried each hole going down and out to get that right lead through. The bottom hole leaves it about 2-3" short. The next hole up leave it about 2" short, then where I ran it was STILL short but was the closest of any of them. I spent extra time on the wiring, testing literally every way out of that tail light chamber area - and every one of them was worse than the very top one out. And that makes sense as the lower you go, you lose another inch or so of wire going down vertically before you make that turn to the right. Down another hole, you lose another inch before it turns right. So logic even says - out the first hole you can and turn right fast.
My comments on vehicle wiring - take a look at vehicles in the last few decades - nothing dangles, nothing can swing, no loops spots for vibration. Everything in and under that truck is carefully calculated for length and strapping. Those straps aren't there to annoy the people assembling things - they are there to prevent shaking and moving wires. As I was under mine I checked every wire under that truck - you can't move them and none of them move a lick as you push and pull. They stay put.
Where I live - how many have seen chunks of ice and snow hanging from a vehicle as if by magic? Likely hanging on a WIRE to the tail light! That snow or ice swings and pulls. IF your wires aren't strapped every few inches and close to the frame or chassis - they get yanked loose. I've done most of my automotive wiring work in the spring - after the snow and ice is gone. Broke wires, wires pulled out of sockets, you name it.
Take a piece of copper tubing - nice and supple at first - now flex it back and forth..... it hardens and eventually breaks. Same for wire.
Yes, I'm picky as hell, and even OCD at times, but there's reasons for a lot of things we see. (not always - like the hood release location on some cars - what the #$%#$ were they thinking??)
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