Building a Mojavicon: Adding Lockers and Swaybar to a Mojave

[RyderGear]

Ryder I have a couple of questions. I have talked to a couple of 4wd shops and they have all said you can’t put a front locker in the Mojave as of now. What part number did you order from ARB and was anything else special needed? Also did you wire it to the aux switches in the dash and do you need one for the compressor and a separate one for the locker? I’m intrigued with adding a front locker. The reason I was asking about the two switches is if you want to run the air compressor separate for tires without activating the locker. Thanks in advance.

I attached the line item that I got from 4WP. I think they used a part number for a JL Sahara, but the axle is the same on mojave's so it doesnt matter. Keep in mind that both the Mojave and Rubicon JT's have the same Dana 44 as some JL. Not all JT's have this Axle so the part I used may or may not be compatible with your rig. And if you dont have a dana44 then what i did won't work as far as i know. The ARB dual locker, and the Air locker run off different aux switches. I believe you can use onboard AUX switches for this if you have them. I didn't have them, so I used the switches that came with the AIR compressor and the locker and mounted them in an overhead molle panel I have between my freedom panels overhead. The Air compressor is wired to the ignition so it can only be ON if the ignition is on and it operates independently of the AIR LOCKER. The AIR locker is wired to the battery separately and can be toggled on and off for use as you see fit. Keep in mind that if the Air compressor is OFF and you go to engage the AIR locker it may attempt to engage using the air in the compressor resivoir, but it unlikely to stay engaged for long since the compressor is off.

Unlike the Electronic Rear locker I have on my Mojave or Front and Rear that would be on a Rubicon, the setup I have is not displayed on the heads up display and there is no indication that the locker is ON/ENGAGED with the exception of the Switches being in the ON position and a little light on the switch being ON. Also its quite obvious when your locker is engaged as the wheels no longer turn independently.

Since a locker is typically used to overcome an obstacle and not needed after pasing the obstacle I engage the locker only when necessary and disengage it immediately after needing it. The compressor I generally leave OFF, but when out wheeling I leave it on so that any time i need the front locker I know the compressor is already fully pressurized and ready to go.

Hope this helps.

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[Wyofuy069]

I attached the line item that I got from 4WP. I think they used a part number for a JL Sahara, but the axle is the same on mojave's so it doesnt matter. Keep in mind that both the Mojave and Rubicon JT's have the same Dana 44 as some JL. Not all JT's have this Axle so the part I used may or may not be compatible with your rig. And if you dont have a dana44 then what i did won't work as far as i know. The ARB dual locker, and the Air locker run off different aux switches. I believe you can use onboard AUX switches for this if you have them. I didn't have them, so I used the switches that came with the AIR compressor and the locker and mounted them in an overhead molle panel I have between my freedom panels overhead. The Air compressor is wired to the ignition so it can only be ON if the ignition is on and it operates independently of the AIR LOCKER. The AIR locker is wired to the battery separately and can be toggled on and off for use as you see fit. Keep in mind that if the Air compressor is OFF and you go to engage the AIR locker it may attempt to engage using the air in the compressor resivoir, but it unlikely to stay engaged for long since the compressor is off.

Unlike the Electronic Rear locker I have on my Mojave or Front and Rear that would be on a Rubicon, the setup I have is not displayed on the heads up display and there is no indication that the locker is ON/ENGAGED with the exception of the Switches being in the ON position and a little light on the switch being ON. Also its quite obvious when your locker is engaged as the wheels no longer turn independently.

Since a locker is typically used to overcome an obstacle and not needed after pasing the obstacle I engage the locker only when necessary and disengage it immediately after needing it. The compressor I generally leave OFF, but when out wheeling I leave it on so that any time i need the front locker I know the compressor is already fully pressurized and ready to go.

Hope this helps.

This was helpful. Someone at ARB told me it would work and someone else told me it wouldn’t. Was the install pretty staightforward or were additional parts needed? Besides the air compressor ofcoruse.

 

[RyderGear]

This was helpful. Someone at ARB told me it would work and someone else told me it wouldn’t. Was the install pretty staightforward or were additional parts needed? Besides the air compressor ofcoruse.

I had 4WP do the install so I am not certain how challenging it was, but as far as I know the only special parts were related to the mount for the compressor. Mine is mounted in the engine compartment just above the drivers side wheel well.

 

[XraytecH]

I don't thing the front pumpkin on a Mojave has an elocker port. Your only option is an air locker up front.

 

[Wyofuy069]

I have no problem using an air locker on my Mojave, but I did want to make sure it would fit first. ARB was yes and no on the RD245, but now I think I’m ready to order.

 

[RyderGear]

I have no problem using an air locker on my Mojave, but I did want to make sure it would fit first. ARB was yes and no on the RD245, but now I think I’m ready to order.

You should be good to go. It worked well for me on John Bull and Holcomb Creek just 2 weeks ago.

 

[The White Rabbit]

HMU If you decide to do it. I did a ton of research and found an excellent combo that works great!

Do Tell!?!?

 

[RyderGear]

Do Tell!?!?

read the thread.

 

[The White Rabbit]

No issues at all.... other than gas mileage. My rig handles great. I often carry a motorcycle as well. No handling issues. With the 35's slightly more sluggish with accelration when loaded down, but not enough to bug me. Still plenty of power. I take on long trips, rock crawl, and rip it in the dessert. The big key with the Mojave suspension is to get a lift that is specifically designed for the mojave suspension. The AEV 2" lift I have is only spacers. So it leaves all the wonderful parts of the Mojave suspension, but gives you 2 more inches. When I am really loaded down, like the bed is full and I have the motorcycle as well the rear does ride about 2" lower than the front, but honestly other than "looking" odd becase the softer springs are more compressed in the back, it doesnt ride any different. I absolutely LOVE my Mojave and so happy I got it over the Rubicon.

You may want to consider some helper bags or max tow springs so you don’t overwork your shocks. Specs from Fox are 1” either direction. Your 2” puts them out of optimal range per Fox

 

[shrinkhead]

If I have a rubicon with reservoir shocks and air bump stops and offset wheels does it make it a mojavicon or whatever the word ? What actually defines the mojavicon? I am pretty sure you can fit everything unique to either platform on the other no ? Isn’t in the end the transfer case the big difference where you can’t have it both ?

 

[RyderGear]

You may want to consider some helper bags or max tow springs so you don’t overwork your shocks. Specs from Fox are 1” either direction. Your 2” puts them out of optimal range per Fox

fair, but replacing the springs defeats the purpose of having a mojave suspension. The bags i looked into but was told by multiple sources that its likely the desert running and rock crawling would likely destroy the bags while they are not being used. The 2" issue only comes when I carry my motorcycle, and when I'm doing that I am not offroading so while i see yout point of being out of recommendation, im also not stressing the suspension in an offroad way which would be damaging.

 

[The White Rabbit]

fair, but replacing the springs defeats the purpose of having a mojave suspension. The bags i looked into but was told by multiple sources that its likely the desert running and rock crawling would likely destroy the bags while they are not being used. The 2" issue only comes when I carry my motorcycle, and when I'm doing that I am not offroading so while i see yout point of being out of recommendation, im also not stressing the suspension in an offroad way which would be damaging.

 

[The White Rabbit]

I opted for both bags and max tow springs because of trailering.
BTW airbags are wicked cheap to do so to sacrifice a couple hundred bucks every couple years might be worth it?! Of course to each his own and we all know what’s best for our own uses. It would after all be real boring for everyone’s infinite details to become a compendium of puke for everyone to read. I copied your list.

 

[RyderGear]

I opted for both bags and max tow springs because of trailering.
BTW airbags are wicked cheap to do so to sacrifice a couple hundred bucks every couple years might be worth it?! Of course to each his own and we all know what’s best for our own uses. It would after all be real boring for everyone’s infinite details to become a compendium of puke for everyone to read. I copied your list.

haha indeed. definately enjoy man. I love the mods I put in!

 

[WhatExit?]

Different stock springs and shocks, iron steering knuckles instead of aluminum, and a slightly beefed up frame.

There are pro's and con's to which one you start with. If you start with a rubi you have to spend ~ 3K on shocks and hydro bumps and if you want the iron steering knuckles i think its like between 600 and 1K. The beefed up frame you wont ever get.

If you start with a mojave, you're limited to a 2 inch spacer lift, or else you'll have to get rid of the bypass shocks and springs which is really what makes a mojave a mojave. You also will always have lower payload and tow ratings compared to the rubicon.

It really comes down to what (if any) lift you are adding. No lift, or good with a 2 inch spacer lift, go mojave. If you want a coil lift, adjustable shocks, higher tow rating, or higher payload go rubi.

You said, "Different stock springs and shocks, iron steering knuckles instead of aluminum, and a slightly beefed up frame."

Stock springs - springs are cheap and any spring can be purchased aftermarket.
Shocks - Aftermarket offers far better options
Higher tow rating - No one needs to buy a Mojave to get "higher tow rating"
Higher payload - Doubt this is even worth talking about but how much more?

You've convinced me even more that going Mojave isn't worth the cost for what you get and if you modify it you've wasted your money. IMO

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