Control arm drop brackets?

[JeepCrasher]

Has anyone ever heard of "death wobble"? (joking)
So I got a '20 jtr and with a level kit and 37s it was a caddy to drive. Now, 4" Rustys kit with Rustys tie rod and drag link and synergy steering box brace and artec trusses and 40" patagonias......I've got the wobble. I've had it aligned twice and tires balanced twice. I've had an off road shop give it a very quick once over, and have quadruple checked all fasteners for torque spec. Now I need to fix this before axle shafts and gears go in.
At this point I'm throwing darts at it and drop brackets are the next darts. Make sense to anyone out there?

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[Dlish]

Have a copy of the alignment sheet to share?

 

[22EcoDs]

You already check the usual but have to ask. Tire pressure, alignment(specs?) loose components (hop under while someone steers). How much offset is that (offset doesn't help steering Geo) Brackets may help some.

 

[JustinLentz]

When I had death wobble with my JK, I replaced everything one thing at a time. Trac bar, steering stabilizer, drag links, tie rods, ball joints, alignment, tires balanced etc... The wobble stopped after replacing my lower control arms. The bushings on the axle side had become so soft that it was allowing my axle to move around enough and it would wobble between 45-55 mph. No other time. I did notice when replacing my trac bar that the axle side bolt had wear from movement and thought I had solved it from my first guess.

Every issue isn't the same and even Jeep to this day has no solution for this but just wanted to tell my side of the story just in case this may be the same issue for you.

 

[JeepCrasher]

You already check the usual but have to ask. Tire pressure, alignment(specs?) loose components (hop under while someone steers). How much offset is that (offset doesn't help steering Geo) Brackets may help some.

Pressure I've run 30,35 and 38 psi does better at higher psi actually (weird). Alignment is currently at 5* but have adjusted from 4* up to 12* in single degree increments. NOTHING is loose. All ball joints are torqued and no slop in any of them.

 

[JeepCrasher]

When I had death wobble with my JK, I replaced everything one thing at a time. Trac bar, steering stabilizer, drag links, tie rods, ball joints, alignment, tires balanced etc... The wobble stopped after replacing my lower control arms. The bushings on the axle side had become so soft that it was allowing my axle to move around enough and it would wobble between 45-55 mph. No other time. I did notice when replacing my trac bar that the axle side bolt had wear from movement and thought I had solved it from my first guess.

Every issue isn't the same and even Jeep to this day has no solution for this but just wanted to tell my side of the story just in case this may be the same issue for you.

I've thought about going back to bone stock and have a local shop install a completely different lift....but I know Rustys is quality. I've used them before. It has done it since day one of the new lift and it only has about 1k miles with this setup know

 

[JeepCrasher]

Have a copy of the alignment sheet to share?

Not on hand but can post later

 

[MrKnowitall]

The Rusty's kit comes for stout control arms that will hold the axle properly at ride height. Problem is that the camber curve ends up different. A drop bracket kit is actually better for this.

 

[Lynn_F]

Did the lift come with adjustable CA's? Drop brackets will definitely help with the angle of your CA's which will give you a smoother ride. If you don't adjust your lower front CAs when you add the drop brackets then it will also add Caster by rotating the bottom of the axle out. The bracket should have different mounting locations for the upper CA's depending on the amount of lift. You can create more or less caster by playing with the upper CA mounting position. With the amount of lift you have you may want to consider flipping your drag link and raising your front track bar with a Synergy bracket. This will correct your steering geometry and help to reduce bump steer. Lastly a rear track bar relocation bracket will also help smooth out your ride by correcting that geometry.

 

[dawghauler]

Try a dropped pitman arm

 

[nocoast_jt]

Based on what you've said (aligned and wheels balanced) it sounds like a joint is bad somewhere.

When you did the artec trusses did they weld the c-braces on as well? If so, I am guessing that fried at least one ball joint.

If I get the wobbles I have my wife rock the steering wheel while I visually inspect everything and put my hand on every control arm joint, every tierod.draglink end, and trackbar. That can often times help you identify things quickly without throwing money at it. Also, jacking up one side and putting a crowbar on the tire will tell you if ball joints are good or not.

If you have adjustable control arms, the drop brackets will help with the ride but aren't going to help with caster since you already have the ability to set that. They are also another area that can get loose. Don't get me wrong, I love drop brackets with a spacer lift but if you already spent on adjustable control arms you likely don't need em.

Nice rig by the way!

 

[rharr]

40'S are a big tire and they will just cause problems for the lighter suspension parts of a 44 axle.

The bigger drag link helps, did you double check it to make sure the length is right and the front axle is centered under the frame? Have you checked your wheel unit bearings for play? 40's are a lot of load on them and can wear them out quick.

good quality front shocks? aka gas charged mono tube stuff, no hydraulic double wall crap.

Put your OEM wheels and tires back on and see if you get TDW, if you don't then you know the 40's are flexing something that shouldn't and you need to start looking for what that is.

P.S do 1 change at a time to establish a process of elimination.

 

[JeepCrasher]

I have adjustable upper and lower, front and rear arms. I have drop track bar bracket already. Track bar and drag link are completely parallel. Considered flip kit but then the would be parallel. I have used plumb Bob and level to assure all is centered. Welding on inner "c" didn't hurt ball joins or bearing at all and I did check them for slop after welding. I'm putting stock tires back on tonight, if still bad I'm going to try stock rubi springs and that would lower and "falsely " create flatter control arms with drop brackets

 

[JeepCrasher]

So I swapped out to factory rubi springs and it made control arms parallel to ground. Drove perfectly with the 40s (albeit the bump stops got used alot) so I'm 99.998%sure the drop brackets will fix it. Ordering them tomorrow. Thanks for the ideas and help fellow jeepers

 

[Fouts]

be prepared to be disappointed.

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