Diesel cooling options and ideas

[am1978]

I

Down side of those are they create pressure under the hood which will make less air flow through the radiator. They should be mounted backwards so they suck air out of the hood. I'm considering those as well to turn them backwards.

Would that even work?

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[Mr._Bill]

Vents (backward scoops) on the rear section of the hood, in theory, should exhaust heat from under the hood. How well it will work with the Jeep aerodynamic profile remains to be seen. I'm guessing the Jeep Engineers wanted the air pushed through the engine bay and out the bottom, since they did not include top vents in the design, or the Accountants decided they were too expensive.

 

[redrider]

Americans seem to be more about style than substance. That is why we have fake boobs, body vents and farkles. For example, a lot of the motorcycles I worked on and see daily are owner modded abominations.

 

[jeepin48]

Would that even work?

Vents (backward scoops) on the rear section of the hood, in theory, should exhaust heat from under the hood. How well it will work with the Jeep aerodynamic profile remains to be seen. I'm guessing the Jeep Engineers wanted the air pushed through the engine bay and out the bottom, since they did not include top vents in the design, or the Accountants decided they were too expensive.

Could those scoops actually force enough air flow down and out? Only testing will tell. I am skeptical.

Here is my logic.
The objective is to expel more heat from the engine, period. The most effective way is to do that through the radiators. This is why we dont have a bunch of air cooled engines in vehicles. In order for a radiator to function you need air flow. The more flow you have the more heat it can carry away.... The air flows from higher pressure to lower pressure. In the front of the grill /radiator air pressure builds up when you are driving down the road (lest say 1 unit of pressure). Under the hood in the engine compartment is essentially no pressure (0 units of pressure). So the air flows from the high pressure area, through the radiator, to the low pressure area. From under the hood there is usually enough channels for the air flow to exit down around the engine. However when you pack too much shit under the hood (as the JTD) it has less room to flow out. So to increase flow you want lower pressure under the hood to create a larger differential through the radiator. Using a hood scoop will ram air under the hood increasing pressure and lowers air flow through the radiator. Turning the scoop backwards towards the windshield with create a low pressure vacuum area at the back of the opening that will suck air out of the hood. The higher the velocity the more the low pressure vacuum. My crude testing showed the higher velocity was near the front of the hood indicated by the faster twitching ribbons. Hence placing the scoop backwards near the front of the hood would be most beneficial, IMO.

Heat also wants to rise so taking the heat flow out the top may also have benefits.

 

[CreepyJeepy]

I am not sure if it has been discussed, but I am curious if anybody has done any testing with the AEM intake that 'should' fit the 3.0 combined with a muffler delete pipe (catback).

I am curious if reducing restrictions may help reduce EGT (due to less restrictions).
I am not interested in doing any tuning yet on my 3.0, more concerned with pulling temps down.

Thoughts?

 

[Pike1892]

Could those scoops actually force enough air flow down and out? Only testing will tell. I am skeptical.

Here is my logic.
The objective is to expel more heat from the engine, period. The most effective way is to do that through the radiators. This is why we dont have a bunch of air cooled engines in vehicles. In order for a radiator to function you need air flow. The more flow you have the more heat it can carry away.... The air flows from higher pressure to lower pressure. In the front of the grill /radiator air pressure builds up when you are driving down the road (lest say 1 unit of pressure). Under the hood in the engine compartment is essentially no pressure (0 units of pressure). So the air flows from the high pressure area, through the radiator, to the low pressure area. From under the hood there is usually enough channels for the air flow to exit down around the engine. However when you pack too much shit under the hood (as the JTD) it has less room to flow out. So to increase flow you want lower pressure under the hood to create a larger differential through the radiator. Using a hood scoop will ram air under the hood increasing pressure and lowers air flow through the radiator. Turning the scoop backwards towards the windshield with create a low pressure vacuum area at the back of the opening that will suck air out of the hood. The higher the velocity the more the low pressure vacuum. My crude testing showed the higher velocity was near the front of the hood indicated by the faster twitching ribbons. Hence placing the scoop backwards near the front of the hood would be most beneficial, IMO.

Heat also wants to rise so taking the heat flow out the top may also have benefits.

This is my thought also, that's why I think the inner fender liner with vents will help also by giving a place for the hot air to escape. The Rubicon hood has the backwards vents and there has been some that say opening it up helps a few degrees. The concern is water on electronics. May creating a removable plug would help for when towing etc.

If the hood scoops were backwards with plugs I would buy a set.

I have also thought about creating some plastic direction pieces to help direct all air coming through the grille to the radiator. I am amazed how tightly packed everything is. The oil cooler sandwich plate I mentioned above doesn't have much room to add in the engine bay.

If we can find a way to add another radiator with fan in another location ( I am thinking under the bed) I am sure this will help. Think of exotic cars, they have multiple radiators.

Also, Is there a way to get the fan to run earlier or more constant? The noise doesn't bother me.

 

[jeepin48]

I am not sure if it has been discussed, but I am curious if anybody has done any testing with the AEM intake that 'should' fit the 3.0 combined with a muffler delete pipe (catback).

I am curious if reducing restrictions may help reduce EGT (due to less restrictions).
I am not interested in doing any tuning yet on my 3.0, more concerned with pulling temps down.

Thoughts?

I suspect that is a double edge sword. If you delete the system it will probably let more heat flow down the tailpipe and allow more heat to exit around the engine. However most of those companies push the tune to produce more power which would likely create more heat. Some of the other threads might be better source for info on that subject. Seems like there are very few of those kits in use right now.

 

[tjZ06]

Not on the Rubi hood.

Oh? Do you have data to support that?

-TJ

 

[am1978]

Oh? Do you have data to support that?

-TJ

Nope, but that video doesn’t depict a Rubi hood. His airflow test would be different on the Rubi hood given the vents.

 

[tjZ06]

Nope, but that video doesn’t depict a Rubi hood. His airflow test would be different on the Rubi hood given the vents.

The non-functional stock vents?

-TJ

 

[am1978]

The non-functional stock vents?

-TJ

Right, but not that they make it better in any way—could be worse, who knows. The non-functional vents would create some drag which should make for a subtle difference in the way the air moves over/across the hood when compared to a hood without those non-functional aesthetics. The Mojave hood would be similarly different.

 

[am1978]

S&B just sent me a shipping notification for the “functional scoops” I ordered.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Vents (backward scoops) on the rear section of the hood, in theory, should exhaust heat from under the hood. How well it will work with the Jeep aerodynamic profile remains to be seen. I'm guessing the Jeep Engineers wanted the air pushed through the engine bay and out the bottom, since they did not include top vents in the design, or the Accountants decided they were too expensive.

That's the likely flow pattern with a truck - out the bottom.
You also have to consider that backwards scoops mounted too far back won't draw air out because there will be a dead zone at the bottom of that flat windshield where air won't be flowing.
Keep them forward a ways. Otherwise that high pressure air at the base or cowl area will stall your air.

 

[Phil3333]

S&B just sent me a shipping notification for the “functional scoops” I ordered.

Me too

 

[jeepin48]

Me too

Would you guys mind posting some pictures of the scoop/vents before you install them. I would like to know what is on the bottom and what the vent dimensions are. I wonder if they would fit on my non Rubicon hood if I cut the holes myself. Thanks

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