- Banned
- #196
sure wish the Jeep engineers simply flipped the male connectors to the door sideI suppose that makes sense in the event any of those wires are powered and you touch more than one pin while trying to straighten things.
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sure wish the Jeep engineers simply flipped the male connectors to the door sideI suppose that makes sense in the event any of those wires are powered and you touch more than one pin while trying to straighten things.
Thank you so much for posting this nugget of info. Without it I have been trying to figure out which pin for the power mirrors (my motor to adjust the tilt & pan of the mirror is inoperable).I case anybody is curious this is the pin that does the power mirrors. All the way on the left. I don't have any of the safety features or proximity on my JTR.
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Check your door harness too. I've seen a few, depending on the age of the truck, end up with a broken wire inside the door harness from opening and closing the door. The bending and unbending of the wires eventually causes them to fail.Add me to the listā¦.everything works fine and no system disables messages, itās only my driver side door lock switch that doesnāt work, highly confident itās not bent pins either as I havenāt taken my doors off in about a yearā¦.brutal
ok will do. It had crossed my mindā¦.I think there was a slow degradation over time with mine. What I noticed was, I would stick my hand into the outside handle to unlock & open the driver door, then press the unlock switch from the inside (to unlock my rear door) and the physical lock would toggle from lock to unlock back to lock. I would then pull on my rear door handle to find It still locked, push the driver side front door unlock switch again, and only then would the rear door actually be unlockedā¦..this went on for at least 6 months before the lock switch just altogether stopped working.Check your door harness too. I've seen a few, depending on the age of the truck, end up with a broken wire inside the door harness from opening and closing the door. The bending and unbending of the wires eventually causes them to fail.
You can change the settings so all doors unlock when you unlock the drivers door. Try that to see. If it makes a difference.ok will do. It had crossed my mindā¦.I think there was a slow degradation over time with mine. What I noticed was, I would stick my hand into the outside handle to unlock & open the driver door, then press the unlock switch from the inside (to unlock my rear door) and the physical lock would toggle from lock to unlock back to lock. I would then pull on my rear door handle to find It still locked, push the driver side front door unlock switch again, and only then would the rear door actually be unlockedā¦..this went on for at least 6 months before the lock switch just altogether stopped working.
Gold star for you my friend!!!Check your door harness too. I've seen a few, depending on the age of the truck, end up with a broken wire inside the door harness from opening and closing the door. The bending and unbending of the wires eventually causes them to fail.
Wow, what is the year, make, model and mileage of this?Gold star for you my friend!!!![]()
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Sucks itās a broken harness, but glad you found it. Itās starting to become a lot more common as these get some age on them and people keep opening and closing the door.Gold star for you my friend!!!![]()
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Launch Edition, 110kWow, what is the year, make, model and mileage of this?
Yeah It seems sort of inevitable with the power doors/windows/everything else combined with the bend radius/cable routing created by opening and closing the doorSucks itās a broken harness, but glad you found it. Itās starting to become a lot more common as these get some age on them and people keep opening and closing the door.
Im tempted, as a preventative measure, to wipe Aerospace 303 on the harness wires to keep them from cracking.Yeah It seems sort of inevitable with the power doors/windows/everything else combined with the bend radius/cable routing created by opening and closing the door
Yeah Iām not too familiar with that product, nor do I have a solid solution that Iād be confident recommending yet after seeing the failure in person. The breaks occurred at the crest of the harness bend radius (as one would expect), which makes me think you need some sort of sleeve or wire way to control It. On my LE, theirs a pretty substantial amount of cable that folds up on the inside of the door when itās closed, so I wonder if I sometimes leaned my leg up against It or something while driving and if that exacerbated / reduced the radius / pinched the cables continuously until It cracked?!?! Donāt know, best bet is probably just to run new wires as the best short-midterm fix (which I have no desire to do). I only had one QD crimp connector set and the hardware store was closed so was forced to solder the 2nd wire. Solder will probably fail relatively soon due to It being so brittle and the location of the break. Gonna do some research on high strength flex connectors, not that It helps the 15 other wires that are still intact at the moment.Im tempted, as a preventative measure, to wipe Aerospace 303 on the harness wires to keep them from cracking.
Hello, if your vehicle is still at the dealership for these repairs, please send us a private message for further assistance.So I had bodywork done about a year ago on my gladiator from paint corrosion⦠They replaced three of my doors and when I got the truck back the power windows work however on the driver side, the power lock button and the mirror adjustment buttons do not work⦠However, the power lock button on the passenger side works and controls the driver side lock I canāt see anything that says any of the pins are bent.
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