Eco diesel Suspension bottoming out on normal roads

[@californiajeeping]

Another non-Rubicon diesel here that couldn't benefit from the TSB but definitely bottoms out. For $220 shipped and a couple hours of garage time the Clayton 0.5" lift springs are absolutely the cheapest and quickest solution. I put mine on this Saturday and hit the trail on Sunday. I can still get the truck to bottom out if I try hard but it's 90% better than before and I'd honestly have to compare a gasser side by side on the same bump to see if I'm just pushing the truck to the natural limits of stock suspension travel.
For rake I'd say it's not level but closer to level than to OEM rake. It's a subtle positive visual change.

A few install notes: Follow the various youtube vids but realize the leave out a key detail (maybe diesel specific?): the passenger side suspension won't droop enough unless you remove the lower track bar bolt, then it drops right down. To get it to reconnect you'll have to finish everything but that, then lower the front until it's weighted. Then have someone move the steering wheel which will shift the entire body until the track bar bottom end lines up with the mounting hole.
Also, if working on your own use a piece of double sided tape on the upper spring perches to hold them in place once you have the little rubber ears correctly in the holes, so that you can then leave it hanging correctly while you jack up the supension and reseat the spring.

Get a set of the falcon bump stops. I posted pictures previously but they are taller and engage softer. The spacer/limiter on the stock bump stops gets hit causing that hard clack or clank you get.

I would have personally gone with a 2" or 2.5" spring minimum. I did the metal cloak lift which raised the front like 3.75" and wish it had another inch to bump stop.

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[Sting-Gray Neutral Pres.]

Get a set of the falcon bump stops. I posted pictures previously but they are taller and engage softer. The spacer/limiter on the stock bump stops gets hit causing that hard clack or clank you get.

I would have personally gone with a 2" or 2.5" spring minimum. I did the metal cloak lift which raised the front like 3.75" and wish it had another inch to bump stop.

I know I'm in the minority on a site like this but I don't want my truck any higher than it already is. I'll check out those Falcon bump stops though, thanks for the tip.

 

[kilroy173]

I know I'm in the minority on a site like this but I don't want my truck any higher than it already is. I'll check out those Falcon bump stops though, thanks for the tip.

I have the metalcloak bump stops and like them. As far as the front springs ive removed mine with just loosening the front trackbar bolt at the axle.

 

[F1REICE]

I have replaced the stock front springs and put in the Clayton 0.5 springs for the diesel. I only disconnected the lower shock bolt and both sway bar links at the axle. No alignment issues no track bar, no trailing arms / control arms. 18 mm bolt and nut on both. Hope this helps

 

[Suszynch]

After my dealership having my parts and bring unresponsive to all forms of contact for several weeks. (jeep cares rep couldn't even get in contact.)finally gave up and told my jeep cares rep I wouldn't be wasting my time with them anymore. Got the 3inch aev high capacity lift installed soon as it was available couple weeks back. Even though I'm underweight (by a lot) according to the rating on the kit. It still rides really nice. I do wish I had a little more squish to the bump stop but when it does compress I've never felt like it's going to knock my teeth out as previously the case.

 

[Icdoo]

I got the tsb done at my dealer in Ontario. Big improvement

 

[domingjm]

I have a 2022 Sport S Diesel with 6376AA front right and left. I've only read through the first few pages of this thread and, to be honest, I don't know if mine has this bottoming out problem or not, but I'm worried. I need to go find a speed bump.
Measurement between the orange arrows is 2 and 13/16" (I have a ~80lb bumper). From the blue arrow (bottom of the gray cylinder, whatever the fuck it's called) to the bottom orange arrow is 2 and 1/8". Any thoughts? Anything else I should check?

 

[domingjm]

My Solution to this Issue. First a little back ground. I purchased my Jtrd Rubicon in December of 20 and did extensive wheeling throughout Johnson Valley, death Valley, Anza Borrego and Glamis. . Got to the point where I could anticipate the Bottoming outA and learn to apply the brakes to avoid it. The truck as delivered had quite a bit of rake and only 2 inches of up travel to the bomp stops. I installed a set of ACOS pro hydraulic bump stops, Setting the up travel at 3.5 inches. The bump stops also increase the spring rate during the last 2 inches of travel by 125 pounds. Now my Rubicon does desert roads like a Mojave and doesn’t bottom out. Hope this helps y’all.
I’ll still except the jeep version of a diesel lift if they offer it, but I’m happy. Keep on jeep in

Would something like this work?
https://www.quadratec.com/p/rough-country/hydraulic-bump-stops-wrangler-jl-jk-bst3000

 

[Dougstdig]

I have a 2022 Sport S Diesel with 6376AA front right and left. I've only read through the first few pages of this thread and, to be honest, I don't know if mine has this bottoming out problem or not, but I'm worried. I need to go find a speed bump.
Measurement between the orange arrows is 2 and 13/16" (I have a ~80lb bumper). From the blue arrow (bottom of the gray cylinder, whatever the fuck it's called) to the bottom orange arrow is 2 and 1/8". Any thoughts? Anything else I should check?

So let me see if I can help you. You don’t necessarily need a speed bump to check this. If you’re turning in to a business where let’s say the parking lot has a slight elevated grade and you turn in or while you’re rolling you’re turning in and the weight of the front end is slightly leaning to the outside tire…. When impact occurs, it literally sounds like a shotgun is going off underneath your dash and will scare the hell out of you. You don’t have to be going very fast typically the ones that shock me the most I’m driving 4 to 6 miles an hour so I almost have to come to a stop and roll in to a transition like that.

On another occasion, I was at a stop light 2nd in line. When the light turned green I rolled forward and slightly started to turn left. Again, I may have been going 46 7 mph and I didn’t notice that there was a half inch transition from new asphalt that has been poured since the last time I gone through the center section. When I hit that little transition Bam. It’s absolutely not subtle. It will scare poop balls out of you and at the same time embarrass the hell out of you, because anyone within a block in either direction will turn in look.

I think I’ve seen some other photos of your bump stop and it appears to me that you have the new version. Yours is brighter or has a longer diameter than the salty bump stops as you can see in the photo below from mine. The fix that’s being released is only for the front bump stops at all four shocks it does not address the spring rate.

In the first 2 photos you can see the rust rings of where the spring perch has made contact with the bump stop tube/shaft.

 

[Dougstdig]

My Solution to this Issue. First a little back ground. I purchased my Jtrd Rubicon in December of 20 and did extensive wheeling throughout Johnson Valley, death Valley, Anza Borrego and Glamis. . Got to the point where I could anticipate the Bottoming outA and learn to apply the brakes to avoid it. The truck as delivered had quite a bit of rake and only 2 inches of up travel to the bomp stops. I installed a set of ACOS pro hydraulic bump stops, Setting the up travel at 3.5 inches. The bump stops also increase the spring rate during the last 2 inches of travel by 125 pounds. Now my Rubicon does desert roads like a Mojave and doesn’t bottom out. Hope this helps y’all.
I’ll still except the jeep version of a diesel lift if they offer it, but I’m happy. Keep on jeep in

Thanks for this info!

I’m absolutely not opposed to adding hydraulic or pneumatic bump stops. One thing I’ve not been able to answer yet is what is the reason the bump stop tube or shaft is longer on the diesel models? I’ll go on a limb and guess that the diesel motors have pieces parts that hang down further than the 3.6 L motor does. I don’t know exactly what the low point is but I question if it is the upper control arm mount either on the top of the differential or the one on the passenger side. Whoever installed your set up, were they able to tell you what it was and how did they determine how much of the bump stop tube to remove in order to install the hydraulic set up ?

 

[domingjm]

So let me see if I can help you. You don’t necessarily need a speed bump to check this. If you’re turning in to a business where let’s say the parking lot has a slight elevated grade and you turn in or while you’re rolling you’re turning in and the weight of the front end is slightly leaning to the outside tire…. When impact occurs, it literally sounds like a shotgun is going off underneath your dash and will scare the hell out of you. You don’t have to be going very fast typically the ones that shock me the most I’m driving 4 to 6 miles an hour so I almost have to come to a stop and roll in to a transition like that.

On another occasion, I was at a stop light 2nd in line. When the light turned green I rolled forward and slightly started to turn left. Again, I may have been going 46 7 mph and I didn’t notice that there was a half inch transition from new asphalt that has been poured since the last time I gone through the center section. When I hit that little transition Bam. It’s absolutely not subtle. It will scare poop balls out of you and at the same time embarrass the hell out of you, because anyone within a block in either direction will turn in look.

I think I’ve seen some other photos of your bump stop and it appears to me that you have the new version. Yours is brighter or has a longer diameter than the salty bump stops as you can see in the photo below from mine. The fix that’s being released is only for the front bump stops at all four shocks it does not address the spring rate.

In the first 2 photos you can see the rust rings of where the spring perch has made contact with the bump stop tube/shaft.

I think you're right. My build date is 29-April 2022, and based upon other information on this board, I appear to be in the clear. However, the springs and up-travel are apparently unchanged from previous models, so I'm looking in to lift kits that can address that shortcoming. But the shotgun blasts that you all are referring to don't appear to apply to me, thankfully. Thanks for your response!

 

[Barbarian]

Thought it was time for an update now that I put 28,000 miles on the JTRD. As I stated at the time I felt the factory springs were too weak and not long enough. The ACOS coil spacers lifted jeep enough to keep it Off the bump stops most of the time however it didn’t solve the underlying problem. After watching for diesel specific springs for quite a while now I noticed that Clayton was making some. So I put a call into Clayton where the gentleman who answered the phone one of the owners was actually able to discuss Spring rates with me. Based on his recommendations I purchased and installed a set of one and a half inch lift, 188 pound springs. The springs actually raised the vehicle all by themselves 2 1/8 of an inch.
Problem is now completely solved. You have to hit something exceptionally hard to even get into the hydraulic bump stops. The Jeep is much more controlled under braking and seems much more like my previous Rubicon JK and LJ s . Hope this helps anybody who is sick of waiting for jeep to fix it. Keep on jeeping!

 

[troymi]

Thought it was time for an update now that I put 28,000 miles on the JTRD. As I stated at the time I felt the factory springs were too weak and not long enough. The ACOS coil spacers lifted jeep enough to keep it Off the bump stops most of the time however it didn’t solve the underlying problem. After watching for diesel specific springs for quite a while now I noticed that Clayton was making some. So I put a call into Clayton where the gentleman who answered the phone one of the owners was actually able to discuss Spring rates with me. Based on his recommendations I purchased and installed a set of one and a half inch lift, 188 pound springs. The springs actually raised the vehicle all by themselves 2 1/8 of an inch.
Problem is now completely solved. You have to hit something exceptionally hard to even get into the hydraulic bump stops. The Jeep is much more controlled under braking and seems much more like my previous Rubicon JK and LJ s . Hope this helps anybody who is sick of waiting for jeep to fix it. Keep on jeeping!

So are you suggesting (maybe) that those of us with AEV spacer lifts can just change springs and basically have the same effect? Maybe even a little more leveling?

 

[Barbarian]

In my case those springs along with the 1 inch already provided by the ACOS coil adjuster exactly leveled my vehicle. 20 1/8 inch ground to rock slider. Front and rear

 

[Barbarian]

To be even a little more clear, the additional lift provided by the ACOS spacers didn’t overcome the problem of the weak factory springs completely. You could still feel the suspension getting into the hydraulic bump stops on even normal roads with imperfections. These Clayton Springs eliminated that completely and you don’tFeel it or hear it getting into the bump stops. Hope this helps!

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