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ESS Dual Battery System Operation

Delhux

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To start with, the negative side of the solar panel should be connected to pass through the IBS and not connected directly to the battery. How is yours wired?
Mine is connected to the battery—the ring connectors from the vehicle-specific solar panel were the size for the extra “little” connection posts next to the main posts.

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itsdapk

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I have been running without the aux battery and removed all of the wiring for several months on the factory alt. I only had problems when I added the 390 amp alt. The factory ecu didn't like it and started wigging on 5 hrs into my trip to SMJI and left me stranded. I was told you needed to run an output voltage regulator from the alt to the main power. Then run your 1/0 stereo,fridge ,etc from the alt. Also I found out that the 392 JL doesn't have any of that. It would take HP tuners to add parameters to full delete ESS and IBS sensor.
 
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jebiruph

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@jebiruph I really appreciate you taking the time to share all of this.

I’ve had ESS charging issues and higher alternator output for a long time—particularly when the ambient temperature has dropped below 50-60 degrees for an extended period. Long story short, I’ve tended, had the batteries checked/load tested, the IBS both reset and replaced, but it seems to be ongoing (in cold seasons), while the battery voltage is almost always 14.5.

I recently added a Cascadia4x4 85W solar panel, and immediately saw my battery voltage drop from mid 14’s to low 13’s. A week later, the battery voltage started creeping back up all the way to 14.6.

I initially did troubleshooting on the solar panel and MPPT, but I’m curious if I should reset the IBS after adding the solar panel—I’d also like to switch on the parking mode for my dashcam, if the solar panel can keep working—would that additional drain/charge (cam/solar) influence the IBS data that gets passed to the PCM for smart alternator output?

Thoughts?
From your previous reply, it looks like you have the solar panel hooked up correctly so that the IBS sees it charging the battery.

I would not worry about the almost always 14.5 V charging voltage, my JL charging voltage was almost always 14.5+ V for 3 years, which I attribute to a short commute and minimal charging time. The main battery was replaced after 3 years, but the aux battery was still good after 3.5 years when I replaced it.

As far as the influence of the cam/solar influence on the IBS, the IBS only sees power into and out of the main battery. The IBS does not know about power from the solar panel to the dashcam, but any charging or draining of the battery from this setup would be detected.
 

obrianmcc

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This is a great thread ... here is my recent experience regarding the ESS system


2020 with Start Stop Not Ready, battery Charging ....

I opted to install the new batteries this weekend vs play the back and forth dealer game ... and it was very straight forward. Yes the aux battery is buried under the PCM, but it is very easy to get to. Some recommendations are to access through the wheel well, but I've been in both ways and I prefer the top down method.

After install of the new batteries the system did not immediately work, in fact the battery charging message persisted making me think the issue might be elsewhere. However, after driving around for about 30 min the system started to work normally.

Assuming it was the AUX battery giving me grief I pulled out my battery tester. What I found was a starter battery testing at 12.6v, 629 CCA, and 4+ Impedance ... while the AUX battery tested 12.44v, 230 CCA, and 10+ impedance. Also to note that you can check the system if you switch the ignition to Aux (not start) and cycle through your vehicle settings to battery voltage. this will give you a static reading. If done so while the vehicle is running it will give you an active reading as being fed by your alternator.

My conclusion was that it is indeed my Aux battery ... the 12.44v is low as with the impedance being slightly high. Also while checking the system static voltage I was previously at 12.2v and then back up to 12.7v with the installation of new batteries.

While an ESS system can stop working for various reasons ... I was confident that my system was charging. If my system would not have reset ... my next step would have been to look at the power control relay between the two parallel batteries.
 
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jebiruph

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This is a great thread ... here is my recent experience regarding the ESS system


2020 with Start Stop Not Ready, battery Charging ....

I opted to install the new batteries this weekend vs play the back and forth dealer game ... and it was very straight forward. Yes the aux battery is buried under the PCM, but it is very easy to get to. Some recommendations are to access through the wheel well, but I've been in both ways and I prefer the top down method.

After install of the new batteries the system did not immediately work, in fact the battery charging message persisted making me think the issue might be elsewhere. However, after driving around for about 30 min the system started to work normally.

Assuming it was the AUX battery giving me grief I pulled out my battery tester. What I found was a starter battery testing at 12.6v, 629 CCA, and 4+ Impedance ... while the AUX battery tested 12.44v, 230 CCA, and 10+ impedance. Also to note that you can check the system if you switch the ignition to Aux (not start) and cycle through your vehicle settings to battery voltage. this will give you a static reading. If done so while the vehicle is running it will give you an active reading as being fed by your alternator.

My conclusion was that it is indeed my Aux battery ... the 12.44v is low as with the impedance being slightly high. Also while checking the system static voltage I was previously at 12.2v and then back up to 12.7v with the installation of new batteries.

While an ESS system can stop working for various reasons ... I was confident that my system was charging. If my system would not have reset ... my next step would have been to look at the power control relay between the two parallel batteries.
The battery charging message is based on the battery sensors' analysis of the main battery. I don't think there's any way for the system to know if the aux battery is charging or not.
 

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ScottLars

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I've been having the "Not Ready, Battery Charging" message off and on for several months now. I have been trying to self diagnose the problem based on information on this forum and others.

Most of my driving is short commutes of 10-15 minutes or less. Rarely drive more than an hour at a time.
The ESS will be working fine for many days, the voltage meter on cluster is reporting fluctuating voltages as I drive like the system is managing things (12.6 -14.7 volts). Under braking is when I would see the higher voltages.
Then for some unknown reason I get in the truck and the ESS system stops working with the charging message. The volt meter on cluster gets to 14.0-14.1 volts and stays there the entire time.
If I check voltage with engine off but ACC switch on, the cluster shows 12.5.-12.6 volts. This drops overnight to 12.2-12.3. I have also double checked this with a volt meter at the battery terminals.

If I reset the IBS (unplug for 10 minutes or more) the system will go back to working normally after a short time driving.

The truck has never failed to start and always starts strongly and quickly. Nothing that leads me to believe that the battery is weak. Although, it rarely sits more than a day without being driven.

I am beginning to believe that the IBS is not good as resetting it puts everything back to normal for several days after a reset.

Would like to hear others opinions about this.
 
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jebiruph

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I've been having the "Not Ready, Battery Charging" message off and on for several months now. I have been trying to self diagnose the problem based on information on this forum and others.

Most of my driving is short commutes of 10-15 minutes or less. Rarely drive more than an hour at a time.
The ESS will be working fine for many days, the voltage meter on cluster is reporting fluctuating voltages as I drive like the system is managing things (12.6 -14.7 volts). Under braking is when I would see the higher voltages.
Then for some unknown reason I get in the truck and the ESS system stops working with the charging message. The volt meter on cluster gets to 14.0-14.1 volts and stays there the entire time.
If I check voltage with engine off but ACC switch on, the cluster shows 12.5.-12.6 volts. This drops overnight to 12.2-12.3. I have also double checked this with a volt meter at the battery terminals.

If I reset the IBS (unplug for 10 minutes or more) the system will go back to working normally after a short time driving.

The truck has never failed to start and always starts strongly and quickly. Nothing that leads me to believe that the battery is weak. Although, it rarely sits more than a day without being driven.

I am beginning to believe that the IBS is not good as resetting it puts everything back to normal for several days after a reset.

Would like to hear others opinions about this.
I would take it to the dealer and get the batteries tested.
 

ScottLars

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I would take it to the dealer and get the batteries tested.
I'm trying to avoid the dealer troubleshooting (not a lot of faith). I will get my own load tester and do it myself before taking it to dealer.
 

mike921921

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I've been having the "Not Ready, Battery Charging" message off and on for several months now. I have been trying to self diagnose the problem based on information on this forum and others.

Most of my driving is short commutes of 10-15 minutes or less. Rarely drive more than an hour at a time.
The ESS will be working fine for many days, the voltage meter on cluster is reporting fluctuating voltages as I drive like the system is managing things (12.6 -14.7 volts). Under braking is when I would see the higher voltages.
Then for some unknown reason I get in the truck and the ESS system stops working with the charging message. The volt meter on cluster gets to 14.0-14.1 volts and stays there the entire time.
If I check voltage with engine off but ACC switch on, the cluster shows 12.5.-12.6 volts. This drops overnight to 12.2-12.3. I have also double checked this with a volt meter at the battery terminals.

If I reset the IBS (unplug for 10 minutes or more) the system will go back to working normally after a short time driving.

The truck has never failed to start and always starts strongly and quickly. Nothing that leads me to believe that the battery is weak. Although, it rarely sits more than a day without being driven.

I am beginning to believe that the IBS is not good as resetting it puts everything back to normal for several days after a reset.

Would like to hear others opinions about this.
I'm not currently experiencing any problems. I have installed an Anderson socket in my Passengers side ww and connect a 4A maintainer (main battery) when parked as I don't drive every day and am paranoid about battery failure. For reference, attached is a screen shot from my (main battery) battery monitor (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32794632957.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4de30JVC) for the past 2 weeks.
Jeep Gladiator ESS Dual Battery System Operation Screenshot_2021-12-20-09-46-22-691_com.dc.battery.monitor2
 

ScottLars

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I'm not currently experiencing any problems. I have installed an Anderson socket in my Passengers side ww and connect a 4A maintainer (main battery) when parked as I don't drive every day and am paranoid about battery failure. For reference, attached is a screen shot from my (main battery) battery monitor (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32794632957.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4de30JVC) for the past 2 weeks.
Jeep Gladiator ESS Dual Battery System Operation Screenshot_2021-12-20-09-46-22-691_com.dc.battery.monitor2
Good information. I assume the longer "flatter" portions are when it is not being driven and showing normal voltage drop.
Side note: notice you are driving an altitude edition by are in FL.....just thought that was funny.
 

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mike921921

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Good information. I assume the longer "flatter" portions are when it is not being driven and showing normal voltage drop.
Side note: notice you are driving an altitude edition by are in FL.....just thought that was funny.
Correct, the spikes are the days when I drive, flat parts sitting in the garage. Sure, zero Altitude 🤣. I like the factory murdered look.
 

ScottLars

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Update: Decided to replace/upgrade the OEM batteries. Went with DieHard Platinum for both the main and aux batteries.
Drove a little bit after installing and could see the IBS "learning" the new system. I'll give it a week or so before declaring the "problem" fixed.

I'm going to load test the OEM batteries before returning for core.
 

Lost1wing

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I am in the process of installing a S-Tech auxiliary switch system. I disconnected the top battery Neg term and the fender neg terminal thinking I was disconnecting the aux battery. After taking the center dash panels off, installing the switch panel then reinstalling the center panels, the JT would not start. I checked the fender connection and the top neg terminal. I did let it sit for 24hours with the batteries disconnected. Now I noticed two large cables at the fender ground. The picture at the beginning of this thread shows the aux neg going to the main neg and then to the fender ground. Is this second cable on the fender ground my aux battery neg.? I am charging (1 amp trickle) the top battery with everything I had disconnected hooked up. I was reading 12.2v before I started charging. next time I will check for power after disconnecting. At this point, no other electrical devices have been installed. Still waiting for the circuit breaker for the S-Tech sys.
 

jeepin48

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I'm not currently experiencing any problems. I have installed an Anderson socket in my Passengers side ww and connect a 4A maintainer (main battery) when parked as I don't drive every day and am paranoid about battery failure. For reference, attached is a screen shot from my (main battery) battery monitor (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32794632957.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4de30JVC) for the past 2 weeks.
Jeep Gladiator ESS Dual Battery System Operation Screenshot_2021-12-20-09-46-22-691_com.dc.battery.monitor2
Is this graph with the battery maintainer on and running when you park it? Do you mind posting a graph without the maintainer? I suspect after 2-3 week of no vehicle use the voltage would be below 12.0V.
 

mike921921

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Is this graph with the battery maintainer on and running when you park it? Do you mind posting a graph without the maintainer? I suspect after 2-3 week of no vehicle use the voltage would be below 12.0V.
Yes, that graph was with engine off maintainer on. Below is maintainer off for 2 weeks, as you can see, there is a gradual creep downward despite several driving events. It would be interesting to see the data from a true 'daily driver'.

Screenshot_2022-01-03-11-57-17-902_com.dc.battery.monitor2[1].jpg
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