Factory Trailer Brake Controller releases ...EDIT: STILL WAITING

[WXman]

I will apologize in advance, I did not take pictures of the pin swap, but it was super easy. There is a white locking clip on the connector, you release it from both sides and pop it out. Once that is out, you can use a small straight screwdriver, pick, or even a thin pocket knife to push the tab that hold the pin out of the way and pull the pin out. Removed both the blue and black wires, and put them back in the opposite cavities and push to snap in. Then take the white locking clip and snap it back in, and you're done.

I'm kind of glad I didn't hold out for the factory controller now and reused my Redarc. I have to go pickup my new trailer in a couple weeks and it would have bene something I just had to squeeze in installing between now and then. I've posted pictures before of my Redarc setup, and @KVJ was a good resource too if anyone wants to do the knob in place of the 12v outlet like we did and the factory one is supposed to be. I'll be glad to help/answer questions if I you decide to go this route.

As I expected, this turned out to be not nearly as easy as I thought. Been wrestling with this connector for an hour and can't figure out how to get the pins out and I really don't want to break it.

It probably would have been worth $20 to just get the two harnesses etrailer recommended.

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[Rollcast]

As I expected, this turned out to be not nearly as easy as I thought. Been wrestling with this connector for an hour and can't figure out how to get the pins out and I really don't want to break it.

It probably would have been worth $20 to just get the two harnesses etrailer recommended.

I'm not exactly sure how the connector you are working on is constructed so my suggestion may be irrelevant. Your local parts store or Grainger or Tractor supply (maybe radio shack, do those still exist?) should have a pin extractor tool. Youtube has loads of vids on pin extraction. be patient.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

RadioShack went into bankruptcy years ago. No more stores.
Grainger would be a good source. There are flat and round tools, and of the flats, there are different sizes, there are types that you squeeze together, types with tabs....
and there's this type I made a tool for (fuse panels when I restore automotive fuse panels)

 

[jwilson2899]

As I expected, this turned out to be not nearly as easy as I thought. Been wrestling with this connector for an hour and can't figure out how to get the pins out and I really don't want to break it.

It probably would have been worth $20 to just get the two harnesses etrailer recommended.

Im sorry I didn’t take any pictures of mine, so I stole a couple pictures from the eTrailer site, hopefully it will help some. There should be 2 white tabs on the outside of the plug, marked with red arrows in my picture. If I remember right, you pull them out some from the connector, the slide them towards the connector opening. Once you have both released, the entire white section should come out of the opening. One you have removed that, you can look inside on the pins where I put the green arrow and you should see a tab on one side of that pin that holds it in. Using a small screwdriver or pick, you can push that tab up out of the way so that you can slide the pin out the back of the connector. Do the same for the other wire, then swap and push them back into their new locations until the snap in. Then the white retainer just pushes back in from the opening until it snaps in.

I can try and pull mine back out if you need me to for better pictures/video but it might be a bit before I get to it since I’m pretty busy the next couple of days.

 

[WXman]

Im sorry I didn’t take any pictures of mine, so I stole a couple pictures from the eTrailer site, hopefully it will help some. There should be 2 white tabs on the outside of the plug, marked with red arrows in my picture. If I remember right, you pull them out some from the connector, the slide them towards the connector opening. Once you have both released, the entire white section should come out of the opening. One you have removed that, you can look inside on the pins where I put the green arrow and you should see a tab on one side of that pin that holds it in. Using a small screwdriver or pick, you can push that tab up out of the way so that you can slide the pin out the back of the connector. Do the same for the other wire, then swap and push them back into their new locations until the snap in. Then the white retainer just pushes back in from the opening until it snaps in.

I can try and pull mine back out if you need me to for better pictures/video but it might be a bit before I get to it since I’m pretty busy the next couple of days.

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I was going after the correct tab. Like I said, didn't want to break it and it's difficult to see inside there. I ended up trying a variety of tools I found laying around and finally found one that was able to hold the tab up enough to pull the spades out. Sheww..what a pain. But it's done now. Thanks again.

 

[jwilson2899]

Thanks, I just wanted to make sure I was going after the correct tab. Like I said, didn't want to break it and it's difficult to see inside there. I ended up trying a variety of tools I found laying around and finally found one that was able to hold the tab up enough to pull the spades out. Sheww..what a pain. But it's done now. Thanks again.

Awesome, glad you got it all straight.

 

[WXman]

Success. Redarc is installed. Took 2.5 hours. Also, learned the hard way not to press the control knob without a trailer hooked up. Dash lights up like a Christmas tree. Will edit a video tonight and post it in a separate thread hopefully tomorrow.

 

[Russler]

Success. Redarc is installed. Took 2.5 hours. Also, learned the hard way not to press the control knob without a trailer hooked up. Dash lights up like a Christmas tree. Will edit a video tonight and post it in a separate thread hopefully tomorrow.

Hmmmm, do you know why the dash lights up like a hippy on lunch break? Sorry, couldn't help it. I ask because I can see the 6 year old or one of my lunatic dogs hitting it randomly.

 

[WXman]

Hmmmm, do you know why the dash lights up like a hippy on lunch break? Sorry, couldn't help it. I ask because I can see the 6 year old or one of my lunatic dogs hitting it randomly.

It has something to do with trying to "see" a trailer but there's no trailer there to "see". For some reason that freaks out the onboard computers and throws the ABS and TCS systems into a frenzy which also disables cruise control. Have to shut off the truck and restart to clear it. I'll have to remember that from now on.

 

[jwilson2899]

It has something to do with trying to "see" a trailer but there's no trailer there to "see". For some reason that freaks out the onboard computers and throws the ABS and TCS systems into a frenzy which also disables cruise control. Have to shut off the truck and restart to clear it. I'll have to remember that from now on.

Something doesn’t seem right there. I can push mine with or without the trailer hooked up and it doesn’t cause that. My understanding is that the diode in the harness is supposed to prevent that by not allowing the brake signal to back feed. Makes me wonder if the diode in your Ram harness is faulty or didn’t get installed at the factory. On my Ram harness, I verified the diode was present and matched readings from the Tekonsha harness.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Something doesn’t seem right there. I can push mine with or without the trailer hooked up and it doesn’t cause that. My understanding is that the diode in the harness is supposed to prevent that by not allowing the brake signal to back feed. Makes me wonder if the diode in your Ram harness is faulty or didn’t get installed at the factory. On my Ram harness, I verified the diode was present and matched readings from the Tekonsha harness.

That was exactly my take on it, too. The diode prevented that exact scenario. Those who had the diode, either installed themselves, or otherwise, said it took care of that "system freak-out" issue if it was pushed with no trailer.

I have a feeling my JT doesn't know the difference between trailer or no trailer anyway, the way it acts, unless Jeep is the only company that doesn't up the turn signals to 5 flashes from 3 or make other changes when a trailer is connected.

 

[WXman]

I looked at my harness before installation, and there was what appeared to be a diode inline. It was on the red wire I think. Heat shrink around it about 2/3 of the way from the end plug.

 

[KVJ]

Mine acted up too the first time I changed the wires around but it was my fault, I had my head upside down trying to figure out the wires when I laid under the dash looking up. When stood up to install the wires I did just the opposite. Had to re-do the two wires and everything was fine.

 

[jwilson2899]

I looked at my harness before installation, and there was what appeared to be a diode inline. It was on the red wire I think. Heat shrink around it about 2/3 of the way from the end plug.

Yep, that's the one. Strange you had issues, I can press mine without a trailer connected and I just get the long blue blink from the Redarc and that's it. Nothing bad happens.

 

[WXman]

I'm curious now so I'm going to push it again and see if the same Christmas tree presents itself on the dash again, or if it just happened to be an issue from installation. One BIG lazy mistake I made was that I didn't unhook the battery before installation. It was cold and breezy and I just wanted to get it done fast. Maybe I just ticked off the computer when I hooked it all up.

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