How hard is it to install springs

[Jeeperjamie]

On my JKU I had a buddy who knew what he was doing help me out, I should of paid more attention to what he was doing. I feel like I can tackle it but would like some tips before I go at it. I'm going add Rubicon springs to the front and reinstall my 2.5" spacer with them to level it out a little more. Any advice, tips, photos, videos would be helpful. I haven't priced it at my shop but I'm guessing about $300 to get it done. It would be worth it but I'll like to put that $300 at a new rear bumper instead of labor. Thanks!!!

Sponsored

 

[Renegade]

It’s not that bad if you have the right tools. There are thousands of Wrangler/Gladiator lift videos on YouTube. I recommend watching a couple and deciding based on your skill level and tool availability.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

It’s not that bad if you have the right tools. There are thousands of Wrangler/Gladiator lift videos on YouTube. I recommend watching a couple and deciding based on your skill level and tool availability.

Not sure I could rate my skill level, but I'm pretty good at following directions and figuring things out. I've done more than I thought I could do using YouTube. Just been so busy with work, 14hr plus days that I haven't had much of a opportunity to look on YouTube for a good video to watch.

 

[arosen1997]

On my JKU I had a buddy who knew what he was doing help me out, I should of paid more attention to what he was doing. I feel like I can tackle it but would like some tips before I go at it. I'm going add Rubicon springs to the front and reinstall my 2.5" spacer with them to level it out a little more. Any advice, tips, photos, videos would be helpful. I haven't priced it at my shop but I'm guessing about $300 to get it done. It would be worth it but I'll like to put that $300 at a new rear bumper instead of labor. Thanks!!!

I'd say if you have 4 decently tall jackstands as you'll want them on the frame, a floor jack, sockets 10-24mm, ratchet, breaker bar, torque wrench (up to 220 Ft-Lb) and a clean level working area you'll be fine as long as you can follow instructions from a video.

 

[danielspivey]

I agree with others, good tool set. I would have an extra jack or two (small manual ones ) to get things lined up if needed. The extra jack really helped me getting the springs in, especially the front ones. The thing I like about using the jacks on the front you can really control the stretch of the brake lines when putting the springs in and don’t need a spring compressor.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I'll be giving it a shot I a little bit. Before and after pictures and measurements on the front. After some thought I'm only going to install the front springs and the Rubicon shocks and see how much better it rides.

 

[danielspivey]

I'll be giving it a shot I a little bit. Before and after pictures and measurements on the front. After some thought I'm only going to install the front springs and the Rubicon shocks and see how much better it rides.

I wish I would have done before and after measurements and pictures, but forgot.

I initially wanted to leave the rake for towing, but with a WDH it should be pretty level towing. Also, for me, towing is like 1-2 % of my driving and I would rather it look good the other 98-99% of the time! I kinda hated on the level look initially, but after I installed the front rubi springs when I put on the spacer lift, the truck looks way better being even. I have an even 9” from the top of my tires to top of wheel wells all the way around. I’m running 275/75r17 wildpeaks w the 2 spacer lift.

a little more advice.. make sure to disconnect the brake like before loosening the bolts. Also, when removing the control arm bolt and then(last) shock bolt to drop the axel, use an extra jack to apply extra upward pressure on the axel so it doesn’t bind the bolt. Then you can lower things into place so everything doesn’t just “fall”.

good luck, I’ll check out your before and after

 

[Bunchahoopla]

These are for Teraflex springs but a good step by step guide on what you need to do. I like they put the socket size and torque specs with the instructions.

https://www.quadratec.com/sites/def...gs-Gladiator-JT-Installation-Instructions.pdf

 

[Jeeperjamie]

I wish I would have done before and after measurements and pictures, but forgot.

I initially wanted to leave the rake for towing, but with a WDH it should be pretty level towing. Also, for me, towing is like 1-2 % of my driving and I would rather it look good the other 98-99% of the time! I kinda hated on the level look initially, but after I installed the front rubi springs when I put on the spacer lift, the truck looks way better being even. I have an even 9” from the top of my tires to top of wheel wells all the way around. I’m running 275/75r17 wildpeaks w the 2 spacer lift.

a little more advice.. make sure to disconnect the brake like before loosening the bolts. Also, when removing the control arm bolt and then(last) shock bolt to drop the axel, use an extra jack to apply extra upward pressure on the axel so it doesn’t bind the bolt. Then you can lower things into place so everything doesn’t just “fall”.

good luck, I’ll check out your before and after

I was watching this video from CJ Pony, it appears he didn't have to mess with the lower control arm bolt, he took the track bar bolt out. He only removed the lower control arms because he was replacing them, but he already had removed the spring before he touch the control arm. Am I right on this or did I miss something.

 

[LoJac963]

I believe you will get even more drop if you disconnect/unbolt the sway bar. I know for my Mopar lift install everything was either loosened or completely removed. I had not issue installing the springs and they were much longer than stock.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

I'll be giving it a shot I a little bit. Before and after pictures and measurements on the front. After some thought I'm only going to install the front springs and the Rubicon shocks and see how much better it rides.

Remember, each spring has a specific corner it's supposed to go in. Make sure you get them in the right spot.

 

[Jeeperjamie]

Got everything installed. Before I was at just over 39" in the front and 40.25" in the rear using and level as my measuring point. Front is just about dead on 40" now I'm front, so the springs gave me right at 3/4" of lift and put the jeep and a spot I'm very happy with. The shocks, oh my god, they along was worth the money. What a difference. I now debating on if I need the Steering stabilizer at all. It riding and driving like a freaking dream. Just can't believe it made as much difference as it did. Before and after the best I could get. Didn't take befores today but I had some already.

Before

After

Can't wait for the wife drive it. She's going to be impressed. Thanks to everyone for all help. I got a second set of hands and a few trial and errors we were able to get it done. I'm super happy I was able to tackle this on my own.

 

[danielspivey]

Got everything installed. Before I was at just over 39" in the front and 40.25" in the rear using and level as my measuring point. Front is just about dead on 40" now I'm front, so the springs gave me right at 3/4" of lift and put the jeep and a spot I'm very happy with. The shocks, oh my god, they along was worth the money. What a difference. I now debating on if I need the Steering stabilizer at all. It riding and driving like a freaking dream. Just can't believe it made as much difference as it did. Before and after the best I could get. Didn't take befores today but I had some already.

Before

After

Can't wait for the wife drive it. She's going to be impressed. Thanks to everyone for all help. I got a second set of hands and a few trial and errors we were able to get it done. I'm super happy I was able to tackle this on my own.

looks great! Go with the Fox stabilizer that’s about $160: https://www.quadratec.com/p/fox-rac..._ONTdG0o3w_XyS5GrG7jigio0pJBk_lIaAs7WEALw_wcB

I tried the ATS (expensive) and actually prefer the IFP. Made a noticeable difference to me in wander, overall stability and stability over bumps.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I have everythiing except a lift - I did it in my garage (shop was full) in 3-4 hours, taking my time in the humidity and running between shop for tools and jacks and garage where I was working. I have a whole thread on the process I used with pics.
I have an Overland. I put Rubicon springs up front - raised it about an inch.
I put max tow springs on the rear to handle the weight better, dropped it about half an inch. I put Fox shocks (Rubicon take-offs) all around. Ride is totally different, better.
I used two floor jacks, a bottle jack to shove the rear axle down. Two wrenches, 4 sockets, a cordless impact, impact swivel, breaker bar and torque wrench.
Watch the FAD wire up front- I have pics of what I did there - didn't even unplug it! Plenty of slack after taking one of the clips loose.
Rear - brake lines barely had length but it worked out. If I was adding lift I might have taken the rear calipers loose.
The front there was plenty of room - even with the Rubicon springs I had so much space there was over an inche above the springs and I had to hold the top spring isolators up in there and guide things back into place.
No big deal - I'm 63, about 25 pounds over-weight and have arthritis.
So I had a handicap going in.
Shop wanted over $600 to swap 4 springs and 4 shocks.
I could have saved time had I coordinated taking the things loose as I had the front wheels turned left or right. Instead I turned them left, took loose what I could, turned them right, took more loose, oops, need to go back left to take that loose, then back right. I could have shaved a few minutes off easily.
My bet - I could do it in 3 hours now, especially if I was in my shop with the AC and much better lighting and even floor with no rough spots.
It was easier than any car I'd ever swapped springs in or rebuilt suspension on.
The difference in handling, steering and ride - amazing and love the roughly 1" lift up front. Sticks to the road a lot better - like the results you had. The shocks, I shouldn't have waited so long to do it!

 

[danielspivey]

I have everythiing except a lift - I did it in my garage (shop was full) in 3-4 hours, taking my time in the humidity and running between shop for tools and jacks and garage where I was working. I have a whole thread on the process I used with pics.
I have an Overland. I put Rubicon springs up front - raised it about an inch.
I put max tow springs on the rear to handle the weight better, dropped it about half an inch. I put Fox shocks (Rubicon take-offs) all around. Ride is totally different, better.
I used two floor jacks, a bottle jack to shove the rear axle down. Two wrenches, 4 sockets, a cordless impact, impact swivel, breaker bar and torque wrench.
Watch the FAD wire up front- I have pics of what I did there - didn't even unplug it! Plenty of slack after taking one of the clips loose.
Rear - brake lines barely had length but it worked out. If I was adding lift I might have taken the rear calipers loose.
The front there was plenty of room - even with the Rubicon springs I had so much space there was over an inche above the springs and I had to hold the top spring isolators up in there and guide things back into place.
No big deal - I'm 63, about 25 pounds over-weight and have arthritis.
So I had a handicap going in.
Shop wanted over $600 to swap 4 springs and 4 shocks.
I could have saved time had I coordinated taking the things loose as I had the front wheels turned left or right. Instead I turned them left, took loose what I could, turned them right, took more loose, oops, need to go back left to take that loose, then back right. I could have shaved a few minutes off easily.
My bet - I could do it in 3 hours now, especially if I was in my shop with the AC and much better lighting and even floor with no rough spots.
It was easier than any car I'd ever swapped springs in or rebuilt suspension on.
The difference in handling, steering and ride - amazing and love the roughly 1" lift up front. Sticks to the road a lot better - like the results you had. The shocks, I shouldn't have waited so long to do it!

glad it worked out for you! Would you say the overland is level now?

also, the jack to drive the axel down like you said it what made it definitely easier for me!

Sponsored