How is Jeep managing the heat in the 392? Lower payload in the Diesel due to heat, how does that factor?

CrazyCooter

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Yea but the gas Gladiators and Wranglers with the D44 are rated for the full 7,7xx towing capacity. Correct?
What I'm getting at is the forces and heat generated in the drivetrain with 285/260 at 12800 GCVW is WAY different than 12,800 with 260/442 or 470/470. The speeds that can be achieved/sustained by higher hp/tq will surely generate more heat and load?

I have yet to get under the Ecodiesel models, but are the drivelines the same? If so, this could be the reason they derated the tq for the Jeeps? The pickup also gets the 9.25 diff which has a larger ring gear and holds more oil than the D44. The pinion 9.25s eat bearings but they seldom come in broken.

Engine and trans heat can be dealt with, but how do you get the heat out of a differential or transfer case?

The engineers have to take the worst possible scenario and factor that into the warranty/failure equation. Many people on the east coast have no idea the brutal conditions we operate under here on the west coast regarding heat and road grades due to elevation change. Think Towne Pass in Death Valley at 130° ambient!





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Gobi-Wan Kenobi

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I had read about not being able to get the engine heat outtoo, but figured the JT Eco tow choke point might really be the rear D44 axle? Maybe not.....Just an aluminum cover would buy some more headroom.

I have also not seen mention of what the Hemi JL will be equipped with for a rear axle....Cant see how the Current D44 would make it through a set of tires with that much power on tap! D60 or one of the metric Dana equivalents? Even a D60 will be begging for mercy with some bigger rubber!
The gas engine Rubicon and Sport max tow are both rated higher then any of the diesel Gladiators. So the axle is not the limiting factor, the Engine/Transmission is. Jeep has publicly stated that engine cooling is the primary bottleneck in the Gladiator's towing capacity and that the diesel engine runs hotter so it is more limited.
 

Overland-2021

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So how do we increase the ability of the JT to expel heat?
Do we use a hood scoop and force the air down?
One to force the air up?
Add a huge fan?
Another radiator with a fan?

And where?

I have an ECO diesel in an Overland and plan on lots of miles towing - Im on the east coast and want to include joshua tree NP. How do I can keep it cool enough?

Yup... way too many questions :)
 

Gobi-Wan Kenobi

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So how do we increase the ability of the JT to expel heat?
Do we use a hood scoop and force the air down?
One to force the air up?
Add a huge fan?
Another radiator with a fan?

And where?

I have an ECO diesel in an Overland and plan on lots of miles towing - Im on the east coast and want to include joshua tree NP. How do I can keep it cool enough?

Yup... way too many questions :)
The problem is the front end is kind of narrow. You need a bigger front end to get more surface area for air to flow through the radiator. If it was just a matter of bigger fans Jeep would have done it already. Styling limited the cooling capacity.
 

Oilburner

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The problem is the front end is kind of narrow. You need a bigger front end to get more surface area for air to flow through the radiator. If it was just a matter of bigger fans Jeep would have done it already. Styling limited the cooling capacity.
There’s more to it than that - the trim on my JLUDR is ~3/8” all the way around every slot. If they ‘just needed a bigger opening’ they would just omit it like on the Sport model.
I think there isn’t quite enough air space around the turbo/exhaust area to evacuate the heat. How about a snorkel to expel heat? lol
 
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AEsco48

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  • Thread starter
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So how do we increase the ability of the JT to expel heat?
Do we use a hood scoop and force the air down?
One to force the air up?
Add a huge fan?
Another radiator with a fan?

And where?

I have an ECO diesel in an Overland and plan on lots of miles towing - Im on the east coast and want to include joshua tree NP. How do I can keep it cool enough?

Yup... way too many questions :)
I don’t have a JT yet, but would love to make heat exhaust heat chimney out of the non functional hood vents... 3D printed... but w/o a JT it’s only an idea.
 

Smess

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AEV has been putting the 6.4 in JK's since 2011 or 2012, a good aluminum radiator has always worked and they use that goofy hood that does not even flow air. And they have been using D44's since day one.

AEV did all the R&D for Jeep just like they developed the Brute Double Cab that then became the Gladiator.

The only thing they have not done is a diesel.

The AEV 6.4's don't have that big hood intake like the 392 has. I had issues with my first AEV Hemi 5.7 getting to the overheat point but then they changed radiator manufacturers and the problem was solved.

Don't worry you are not going to see a bunch of blown up rears and overheated motors, AEV has done years of testing for them with vehicles running in Dubai in extreme conditions.

Dakota Customs (AEV competitor) has been putting in hellcat or demon or whatever those things are called with no over heating problems

Here is a Hellcat conversion with a stock Jeep hood

https://www.dakota-customs.com
 

smlobx

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I have to say I was a bit dissapointed that the factory scoops were fake. There is an Overlander that I subscribe to on youtube, Dan Grec of the Road Chose Me that actually made his fake scoops functional either before or during his trip around Africa in an earlier Wrangler Rubicon..

A quick search came up with this option offered by S&B:

And here's another option...

 

TheSolarWizard

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I think the biggest obstacle is the stacked intercooler and radiator.
perhaps relocating the inter cooler to an aftermarket bumper with an opened up lower skid would work?
 

Smess

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I have to say I was a bit dissapointed that the factory scoops were fake. There is an Overlander that I subscribe to on youtube, Dan Grec of the Road Chose Me that actually made his fake scoops functional either before or during his trip around Africa in an earlier Wrangler Rubicon..

A quick search came up with this option offered by S&B:

And here's another option...

Wow really cool, it does not mention it is for the diesels also but I assume since the hood is the same and when the literature was done the diesel was not out yet
 

Gmac03

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Sometime keeping the heat in is your best bet. I nice turbo blanket and pipe wrap with some shielding in select spots could help greatly.

Haven't looked at the piping but again wrapping it or reflective taping it may help, hot and cold side piping.

And as stated above looking at aftermarket intercooler and rad would help. Typically stock pieces have plastic end caps which can be a heat sync and limit flow.

Not sure how much of an aftermarket will be available for the diesel but all of that to include nice mandrel bent piping can be done yourself or locally.
 

CrazyCooter

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Sometime keeping the heat in is your best bet. I nice turbo blanket and pipe wrap with some shielding in select spots could help greatly.

Haven't looked at the piping but again wrapping it or reflective taping it may help, hot and cold side piping.

And as stated above looking at aftermarket intercooler and rad would help. Typically stock pieces have plastic end caps which can be a heat sync and limit flow.

Not sure how much of an aftermarket will be available for the diesel but all of that to include nice mandrel bent piping can be done yourself or locally.
Agreed! I have a stainless manifold w/blanket, turbo blanket, and downpipe wrapped on my Ram. Turbo spools better and A/C works better, so I assume that reduced the heat load on the system and reduced the temps through the cac/radiator?
 

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