Making Center Console USB Switched

[Vtur]

This mod does exactly that, but without any cutting or splitting of factory wires. I looked at doing that first and saw this was an easier alternative that can also be easily reverted back.

I’m sorry you had issues with this mod not working for you. How are you connecting this in the fuse box?

No sorry is needed. I'm just commenting regards to the method that i've used to make it a switched usb port by using 2 usb charging cables. I did it in hopes, that the carplay unit would reconnect to the uconnect when turn the truck back on within an hour window.

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[Geoarch]

this is interesting... I could have sworn that USB in the center console was only 'on' when the truck was ACC or RUN mode.... so to clarify you're saying it is always powered?? What about the USB/USB-C on the dash, or the two behind the center console for rear passengers?

I have left things plugged into those before and they always turned off charging once the truck was off and locked. Maybe I'm missing something but if left plugged in you're suggesting that over weekend device, such as a phone or in-reach could drain the starting battery? That seems like a pretty terrible design.

Yeah, I have my battery NORCO charger always in that port, and I haven't had any battery issues. I also assumed that it was only powered in ACC or RUN mode.

 

[Geoarch]

The USB in the Center Console is switched on and off with the ignition. However, if there is an active device connected (like a phone charging) the computer will leave the port powered up for a while (about an hour) after the truck is turned off.

There are some that are using wireless Android Auto connection devices. They are looking for ways to turn off the port immediately when the truck is turned off to break the connection between the wireless AA device and the phone.

I see. So the console port to my battery charger will remain on for an hour after the ignition is turned off?

 

[Mr._Bill]

I see. So the console port to my battery charger will remain on for an hour after the ignition is turned off?

The computer will leave the USB port powered on as long as it sees a demand from a connected device. The time will vary, but it seems to typically be about an hour.

 

[Geoarch]

The computer will leave the USB port powered on as long as it sees a demand from a connected device. The time will vary, but it seems to typically be about an hour.

Ok, thanks Bill. Seems I'm ok since I've had it connected since July and the batteries seem fine.

 

[Caspien]

Alright after some more digging and edification on my part. I think I've come up with a way to do this with two fuse taps. Here's a wiring diagram of how I think it should work.

Having two 15A fuses in series shouldn't effect the fuse capacity.

For this setup, did you just use a pair of snips or something, and cut the blade off of one end, to keep it from making that connection? (I assume probably putting a small bit of electrical tape, too, to prevent it from ever accidentally bridging?)

Just curious how you planned on breaking that circuit, on the right side, since most taps are molded plastic. (Yes, I guess you COULD also use snips to split it in half, but that would make it a bit messier)

Or.. hmm.. actually, I guess if you didn't put the lower fuse in.. you could achieve the same result.. ?

(I'm in the same boat, as the rest of you... MA1 and phone constantly pinging each other.. driving me nuts)


~ Casp

 

[landonbour]

For this setup, did you just use a pair of snips or something, and cut the blade off of one end, to keep it from making that connection? (I assume probably putting a small bit of electrical tape, too, to prevent it from ever accidentally bridging?)

Just curious how you planned on breaking that circuit, on the right side, since most taps are molded plastic. (Yes, I guess you COULD also use snips to split it in half, but that would make it a bit messier)

Or.. hmm.. actually, I guess if you didn't put the lower fuse in.. you could achieve the same result.. ?

(I'm in the same boat, as the rest of you... MA1 and phone constantly pinging each other.. driving me nuts)


~ Casp

So I was having other issues with the MA1 so I ended up returning it and never doing this mod. But you are correct in that last paragraph. The intention was to just not put the bottom fuse in - that leaves you with a break in the circuit that prevents backfeeding power

 

[Caspien]

So I was having other issues with the MA1 so I ended up returning it and never doing this mod. But you are correct in that last paragraph. The intention was to just not put the bottom fuse in - that leaves you with a break in the circuit that prevents backfeeding power

Go with the AA Wireless option, instead?

(I've been working with a wireless charging option, and ideally not having to plug ANY cable in, is the final goal.. I was on the fence about AAW vs MA1, and the MA1 won out, due to it being on sale, recently for $60... the fact that it has no upgradability via firmware or such, is actually making me regret the purchase a bit)


~ Casp

 

[Caspien]

So, trying the mod seemed to make zero difference, as the power to those ports doesn't even seem to be connected to the fuse.

As you can see in the below photos, even when the 102 fuse was gone.. still had power. Debating on taking it into the dealership and have them check the connections, now...

Still not sure exactly HOW that would happen.



~ Casp

 

[Vtur]

So, trying the mod seemed to make zero difference, as the power to those ports doesn't even seem to be connected to the fuse.

As you can see in the below photos, even when the 102 fuse was gone.. still had power. Debating on taking it into the dealership and have them check the connections, now...

Still not sure exactly HOW that would happen.



~ Casp

If you don't mind a short usb cable expose between the rear usb port and the console lid. You can simply supplying switched power from the rear usb port to the wireless unit.

It requires 2 usb cables.
1. stripping the jacket of the wireless unit usb cable
2. cut the 5v +/- wires in half
3. Leave the cut end toward the console port OPEN (tape it to prevent any short)
4. Cut the 2nd usb cable in half, long enough to goes from the rear usb port to inside the console
5. Splice the 5V +/- wires from the rear cut usb cable to the 5v +/- wires of the wireless unit

 

[Vtur]

The computer will leave the USB port powered on as long as it sees a demand from a connected device. The time will vary, but it seems to typically be about an hour.

Both dash and console usb ports remains on for an hour even without any device connected. Opening the the door will reset that hour window again.

 

[Vtur]

According to the console usb diagram below. There's a constant and a switched 12v wires at the connector located behind the rear usb ports panel.

In theory, swapping the 2 wires/pins will turns the console port into switched power and the rear charging only ports constant.

 

[sharpsicle]

So, trying the mod seemed to make zero difference, as the power to those ports doesn't even seem to be connected to the fuse.

As you can see in the below photos, even when the 102 fuse was gone.. still had power. Debating on taking it into the dealership and have them check the connections, now...

Still not sure exactly HOW that would happen.



~ Casp

That's very interesting. Pulling that 102 fuse should kill your USB power. Do you have anything aftermarket wired in by the radio or USB ports that might be backfeeding the circuit from elsewhere?

 

[Caspien]

That's very interesting. Pulling that 102 fuse should kill your USB power. Do you have anything aftermarket wired in by the radio or USB ports that might be backfeeding the circuit from elsewhere?

Nope.. everything hardwired is done via the pre-wired aux switches. (Winch, exterior lights are hooked up in the engine bay. Dash cam, and wireless charger (which apparently has problems with Pixel phones) are wired in via constant and switched power, respectively. Nothing running off the accessory or a tap at all.

Also, those ports seem to be ALWAYS on. Left the MA1 plugged in, all night long, and woke up to see the phone STILL trying to connect to it. Even plugging into the dash usb or the console, without ever firing up the ignition means the device goes live.

Interestingly, enough, I also discovered my wife's 2020 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk has the same thing going on. Her USB ports are also always live, and stay on as long as something has a draw on it.

Weird, for certain, but I'm going to just add an inline rocker/toggle for that port (and her GC TH) , and mount the switch on the back side of the center console, to toggle it on and off as needed.

Grabbed two of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T9BRNHW

Also grabbed an AA Wireless, to see if their toggle option works, too.


~ Casp

 

[Northshorecajun]

So, trying the mod seemed to make zero difference, as the power to those ports doesn't even seem to be connected to the fuse.

As you can see in the below photos, even when the 102 fuse was gone.. still had power. Debating on taking it into the dealership and have them check the connections, now...

Still not sure exactly HOW that would happen.



~ Casp

I have a 2021 Mojave, and I ran into the same issue. The F102 fuse was not supplying power to the USB port in the center console. I plugged in a USB powered light into the center console USB port and started pulling anything in the fuse list with "USB" in the description. It turns out, at least on my Gladiator, that the fuse supplying power to the center USB port is F11 - UCI Port (USB & AUX).

I shortened the jumper that I made from two fuse taps (as suggested by @landonbour ) to run between F53 and F11. Worked like a charm. Pics of the jumper are below.

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