Power Sliding Rear Window - It's possible!

[Timoleon]

I do miss the "disappearing" rear window on my 2018 Tundra. That's all I miss other than the 5.7 liter motor.......

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[MeiMei]

Great idea. I wonder if it’s possible to use the factory hard top, run it to a factory aux switch, make it a bit faster and detachable for taking the top off.

 

[MeiMei]

I would like to add this and use an aux button. I’m surprised nobody sells a kit. Some companies even have power window kids for Jeeps without power windows. One would think this would be easy to configure for a small, light window.

 

[Gatorized]

I would like to add this and use an aux button. I’m surprised nobody sells a kit. Some companies even have power window kids for Jeeps without power windows. One would think this would be easy to configure for a small, light window.

The new Tacoma has the power slide rear window - works slick!
but slides towards the passenger, opposite the JTs.

 

[John K]

I tried the Actuonix actuator but it failed with very little use also got hit from Fed Ex for $90 tariff after receiving it. Called Actuonix and asked why they didn’t tell me about the tariff when I ordered it. We then had a circular conversation where they just said it was due to tariffs and I kept asking I know but why don’t you tell US customers while ordering. Anyway out $200 but Upside 47 gave me good proof of concept. The following idea cost me about $50-$60 dollars all in. I also tried a window motor etc but there is so little room behind the seat I couldn’t. Make it fit plus it’s complicated getting it not to move too far and attaching the track etc. I used an actuator off of Amazon it was $32 and fast enough opens window in about 5 seconds. It’s much stronger than necessary. I used some steel stock to attach it to the truck with two of the Torx bolts that hold the top on. Whole thing isn’t permanent and can be removed turning truck back to stock. Mines a little cumbersome and not as attractive as others but there just isn’t much room behind the seats in this area. I purchased the 10” actuator they sell a 12” but I was afraid it may try opening too far causing a problem pulling before hitting its stop. Attached are some photos and video. As far as holding the latch opening. I drilled a small hole for a sheet metal screw screwed it in and it pulls the latch open. That too can be removed returning the latch to operating properly. Biggest issue is attaching actuator rod to window the rubber square is good for a couple screws but you need to go beyond that and attach to the window. I used 3m tape and heavy duty plastic Velcro to take up space. Everything regarding attaching to the window is on a different plane so it takes some patience getting a good connection to the window. This actuator is very strong and a little big but fits behind the seat ok I don’t see it failing though as it’s not breaking a sweat opening that little window.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

Great idea. I wonder if it’s possible to use the factory hard top, run it to a factory aux switch, make it a bit faster and detachable for taking the top off.

Yes, but you'd need either two limit switches (SPDT) or an encoder, plus the linear actuator. The encoder would be much cleaner (and often available built-in to the actuator). You'd also need a small microcontroller to allow for a SPST switch (the factory AUX switch) to allow it to open when "ON" then close when "OFF". The encoder will "sense" when the window is fully closed vs open, and also will allow you to get the window fully open without causing damage to the window/etc, by being able to set the end points of open vs closed...even if the actuator has a longer range of motion than your window can open (unless you want it to be partially opened like the video above).

Guess it's time for a poll about this missing "feature"...

 

[Gatorized]

I I used an actuator off of Amazon it was $32 and fast enough opens window in about 5 seconds. It’s much stronger than necessary. I used some steel stock to attach it to the truck with two of the Torx bolts that hold the top on. Whole thing isn’t permanent and can be removed turning truck back to stock. Mines a little cumbersome and not as attractive as others but there just isn’t much room behind the seats in this area. I purchased the 10” actuator they sell a 12” but I was afraid it may try opening too far causing a problem pulling before hitting its stop. Attached are some photos and video. As far as holding the latch opening. I drilled a small hole for a sheet metal screw screwed it in and it pulls the latch open. That too can be removed returning the latch to operating properly. Biggest issue is attaching actuator rod to window the rubber square is good for a couple screws but you need to go beyond that and attach to the window. I used 3m tape and heavy duty plastic Velcro to take up space. Everything regarding attaching to the window is on a different plane so it takes some patience getting a good connection to the window. This actuator is very strong and a little big but fits behind the seat ok I don’t see it failing though as it’s not breaking a sweat opening that little window.

well done - the window opens to 12 1/4” so the 12” actuator should be perfect. A wedge of foam in the latch would probably hold the latch open without the need to drill.

 

[Gatorized]

@John K - your power sliding rear window is very well executed! Bravo for your first post! Do you have a parts list with links? Curious what switch you used and if you have a wiring diagram… does the actuator auto-stop when it reaches its limit or do you need to ensure you release the switch so you don’t burn it out? Could it have been installed with the motor down or would that interfere with the seats? A DIY write-up on this would be much appreciated!

 

[John K]

Below is the switch I used off Amazon link thing wasn’t going well but a search with the key words from that and the actuator will pull them up. The rest of the materials were just some steel stock and a steel strap for an electrical box I cut up and bent to attach the actuator to the window. Painted it all with black plasti dip I had laying around on a poor attempt to hide it all. The switch has a wiring diagram that comes with it. The actuators only have two wires kinda hard for me to wrap my head around without a third ground but the switch gets a ground in addition to power and the two leads to the actuator. I used Aux. switch #4 for the hot lead. I had the full intent of having the motor below instead of on top but the seat wouldn’t latch bummed about that because it would have been hidden much better. There may be another actuator out there with the motor being smaller or attached differently but I couldn’t find one fast enough. Many were slower than this one which isn’t exactly fast. You will see that they sell a 12” one which would be the way to go if you want the window to open all the way (should have checked the window travel before ordering the 10”) thanks for the info for others on that. Yes they do stop on their own at the end of travel so as long as you mount it fully closed it should be the right travel. I know this option is not as attractive as I would like but the price cant be beat and it’s a Jeep after all so it can’ be a little utilitarian looking.

 

[nazlax10]

First off huge thank you to @John K! His help overall, especially with the bracket was a big help.

I knew as soon as I bought this Jeep that the rear window needed to be powered. I knew this, because I did it on my Tacoma. It's funny actually because some of the TacomaWorld links shared here are actually of me doing it. When BenWA stopped producing the kits I was able to get in touch with him and get enough info to make it. With the permission of Ben, I then shared the bracket specs with another member who had a machine shop to produce them for others.

My goal when I started was power sliding, relatively quick and quiet movement, factory-ish looking, and one aux button control. I think I met all of those...or at least pretty close. I will try to lay out everything I did as best as I can and will also try to answer any questions you may have.

I ended up using a linear actuator similar to John, but I went with the 12" stroke as it maxes out right before full travel of the window. It's pretty close though. I wish I could've done an actual regulator and motor, but I couldn't find the space and keep the top easily removable. I would've done the Ridgeline motor and track, but no junkyard near me had it and I didn't want to buy one that I couldn't return if it didn't work out. This is overall pretty quiet and not necessarily quick, but quicker than pulling over to get out and open the window because you forgot before leaving.

Here's a picture of some benchmark testing the electronics.

Then here is fully installed and operational.

Now let's get into the details. I'll list everything here that I bought. All the fasteners, metal for the actuator mount, and other wire connectors I already had.

Parts used

• Actuator
• Window Control Unit
• Logic Board
• Resistors
• Terminal Connector
• Black Tape
• White Tape
• Crimpers
• Window Bracket
• Velcro

Here are some diagrams for the electronics. Thank you Gemini, haha

In basic terms, the DR25E01 handles the polarity reversing to enable the ability of one aux button to do open and close. Then that sends signal to the 535T which is essentially a relay for the actuator. It also has voltage spike detection so if the window were to hit an end stop the 535T would sense the voltage spike and stop. This is why the resistors were needed though. The actuator itself was not pulling enough power for the 535T to recognize the presence of a "motor". I mounted the resistors to a metal bar under the steering column with thermal paste for heat dissipation. They don't get overly hot though. Lastly, the 4 pin relay is just switching the positive trigger of the aux button to a negative trigger since the DR25E01 functions with a negative trigger.

I designed and printed a box for all the electronics.

For install, all the electronics are up front. Mainly behind/under the dash. I cut and re-pinned the defroster cables into a new 5 pin plug to accommodate my wires. It all still fits under factory covers with top on or off as well. I was also able to modify this connector to secure to the factory clip in the top so it is closer to factory. I also wrapped everything in OEM style fabric tape.

I unfortunately have no good advice for making the bracket other than the bracket linked above is what I started with. It only needs a few bends and one cut. I then used the velcro linked above to secure it to the window. The window latch simply pops out as well.

If you've made it this far, I applaud you. Please let me know any improvements you can think of. Thank you!

 

[Vtur]

Unlike other truck (T) that has rear sliding window. The Gladiator sliding track channels doesn’t have a step toward the end that press the glass against the window gasket to provide a good seal once closed. It just a straight track where the glass just sliding side to side and constantly rubbing on the gasket. Won’t be long before it leaks.

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