You have... 5100s right now? Be sure to update with how the Kings compare. My only real complaint with the 5100s is they are a little harsh on washboards with the AEV HD springs.
It's the same with Clayton springs.You have... 5100s right now? Be sure to update with how the Kings compare. My only real complaint with the 5100s is they are a little harsh on washboards with the AEV HD springs.
I see this comment last night but I was sleepy . Anyway .It's the same with Clayton springs.
40 over washboards isn't an option on a lot of trails/forest roads. It's also the folks driving too fast that cause bad washboards.I see this comment last night but I was sleepy . Anyway .
I feel like any spring that's offering a lift is going to have a degree of stiffness .
My teraflex Spring coupled with their Falcon shocks do the same thing on a washboard. But I also noticed that is I drive 20 it's very noticeable but if I drive 40 then it smooths out( I only tried that once after seeing mythbusters driving on square wheels) any way . Are those for the 4" lift or did you go up or down from 4"??
That has always been the problem with aftermarket and lift springs. They have to make a "one size fits all" part number set for the front/rear that can never match the tuning of OEM shocks that will have a multitude of part numbers with unique spring rates for each corner depending on model and option. Then compound it with more customer added stuff like bumpers and winches, something has to give.I feel like any spring that's offering a lift is going to have a degree of stiffness .
My teraflex Spring coupled with their Falcon shocks do the same thing on a washboard. But I also noticed that is I drive 20 it's very noticeable but if I drive 40 then it smooths out
air down on washboard roads and your pain will decrease.40 over washboards isn't an option on a lot of trails/forest roads. It's also the folks driving too fast that cause bad washboards.
Not always practical. We air down when we can, but if I'm doing 5 miles down a dirt road, to then do 30 miles down asphalt, to another 5 miles of dirt etc., I'm not going to stop to air up and down multiple times. Nothing wrong with trying to find the best overall combination.air down on washboard roads and your pain will decrease.
It seems when I go washboard surfing to my favorite lake on a 20 mile POS road that the state doesn’t maintain, airing down is the only way I’ve found to make the trip without shaking off parts of JT and boat. Practical it’s not, but it works. BTW, over the years I was convinced that “better” shocks were the answer to washboard issues…nah, put four different sets of shocks on my 09 JKR, from stockies to very expensive, on washboards, all four sets provided the same results. Also with my Power tank, and a four hose set up, airing up and down, is a no biggy. practical no, but it really helps on the long section of (no road graders to be found) shit wash board roads.Not always practical. We air down when we can, but if I'm doing 5 miles down a dirt road, to then do 30 miles down asphalt, to another 5 miles of dirt etc., I'm not going to stop to air up and down multiple times. Nothing wrong with trying to find the best overall combination.
King shocks are for 3 to 5 inch lift. So I'm at 4". That will get me some droop.I see this comment last night but I was sleepy . Anyway .
I feel like any spring that's offering a lift is going to have a degree of stiffness .
My teraflex Spring coupled with their Falcon shocks do the same thing on a washboard. But I also noticed that is I drive 20 it's very noticeable but if I drive 40 then it smooths out( I only tried that once after seeing mythbusters driving on square wheels) any way . Are those for the 4" lift or did you go up or down from 4"??
There is a whole bunch of science that goes into matching spring rates and shock valving. I wanted shocks that I could adjust both compression and rebound dampening. The only ones that wasn't $$$$ was the Ohlins. But they have been discontinued. And they were $4K. Being able to adjust either compression and rebound dampening. I could dial it in pretty close.That has always been the problem with aftermarket and lift springs. They have to make a "one size fits all" part number set for the front/rear that can never match the tuning of OEM shocks that will have a multitude of part numbers with unique spring rates for each corner depending on model and option. Then compound it with more customer added stuff like bumpers and winches, something has to give.
Did you look into full coil over set ups, adjustability and $, before you bought your kings?There
There is a whole bunch of science that goes into matching spring rates and shock valving. I wanted shocks that I could adjust both compression and rebound dampening. The only ones that wasn't $$$$ was the Ohlins. But they have been discontinued. And they were $4K. Being able to adjust either compression and rebound dampening. I could dial it in pretty close.
If I was going to coilovers. It would be a 6" lift. Which I don't want to do because of my wife. She has Parkinsons. She has a hard enough time now.Did you look into full coil over set ups, adjustability and $, before you bought your kings?