Should I weld the tubes to the housing in the rear?

[setexascustoms]

I'll install the Artec axle armor kit on the front axle of my '23 Willys next week. On the JKs I know it was fairly common to break the rosette welds and spin the diff housing on the tubes in the rear. On my JK, when I regeared and installed the truss on the front axle I also welded the tubes to the housing on the rear axle. It held up great over 3 years of abuse. Has anyone seen that kind of failure on a Gladiator? I have not, so I'm wondering if it's worth the effort to weld the tubes while I'm under there.

Thanks!

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[Escape.idiocracy]

I haven’t seen this on the JT/JL….. but I mean, if you are doing the rest…. Why not Jeep welds have always been pretty trash…. Redoing any/all brackets and mounting welds is probably a no loss situation

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

I'll install the Artec axle armor kit on the front axle of my '23 Willys next week. On the JKs I know it was fairly common to break the rosette welds and spin the diff housing on the tubes in the rear. On my JK, when I regeared and installed the truss on the front axle I also welded the tubes to the housing on the rear axle. It held up great over 3 years of abuse. Has anyone seen that kind of failure on a Gladiator? NO I have not, so I'm wondering if it's worth the effort to weld the tubes while I'm under there. It's your Jeep, do it if it makes you feel more secure.

Thanks!

Why not just go with a DANA 60?

Lot's of different axles on the Glads, depending on the model. The Gladiator axles aren't the same as JL OR JK axles.

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

I haven’t seen this on the JT/JL….. but I mean, if you are doing the rest…. Why not Jeep welds have always been pretty trash…. Redoing any/all brackets and mounting welds is probably a no loss situation

Jeep axles are made by Dana. Not Jeep.

I personally haven't seen bad welds by Jeep. But I have seen a spun pumpkin on Dana 35. A long time ago. Nothing recent.

Edit: Correction - I removed Ford 8" spun pumpkin.... it was the whole axle housing that twisted out of susp mounts.

 

[Rusty PW]

I welded the axles on my Power Wagon. If I do a truss on my JT. I'll weld the axles.

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Jeep axles are made by Dana. Not Jeep.

I personally haven't seen bad welds by Jeep. But I have seen spun pumpkins on Dana 35s and Ford 8" axles. A long time ago. Nothing recent.

Good eye/catch

Might have noticed that few feet of welding wire and some gas goes for $10-$20 vs a $9k Dana 60 too….

 

[OldButStillJeeping]

Good eye/catch

Might have noticed that few feet of welding wire and some gas goes for $10-$20 vs a $9k Dana 60 too….

Yep.

But you didn't figure in the Artec truss kit price, install and such.

And I'm with you. If you are blazing under the Jeep and you think a few dollars of welding and a spray can of Rustoleum will make ya feel better... Do It if ya know what you're doing.

I would personally install 60's and be done, before trussing 44s and such. But that's just my opinion. these new 44s are very stout off of the lot.

Edit: A Currie may be $9K. A junkyard Super Duty - Super 60 front axle is in the $4K or less range. With a regear and welded tabs for control arms. Last time I checked.

https://fusion4x4.com/products/fusi...irCFLJdxIbmnCDvCv5zx2T6lUaXYgzpxGUxs85rZHq7DU

 

[Escape.idiocracy]

Yep.

But you didn't figure in the Artec truss kit price, install and such.

And I'm with you. If you are blazing under the Jeep and you think a few dollars of welding and a spray can of Rustoleum will make ya feel better... Do It if ya know what you're doing.

I would personally install 60's and be done, before trussing 44s and such. But that's just my opinion. these new 44s are very stout off of the lot.

Edit: A Currie may be $9K. A junkyard Super Duty - Super 60 front axle is in the $4K or less range. With a regear and welded tabs for control arms. Last time I checked.

https://fusion4x4.com/products/fusi...irCFLJdxIbmnCDvCv5zx2T6lUaXYgzpxGUxs85rZHq7DU

While I appreciate your dedication to this… a junk yard 60/sterling setup- and I may be wrong? People are coming up with creative solutions left and right, but the tone rings issue will leave your Jt/JL without traction control/abs/esc…

it’s a sound argument, a few dollars can be saved by a diy axle setup…. However a truss kit like the artech apex (which reduces welding significantly) is a great affordable insurance piece. The new axles are stout, however the FAD area on the front axle- have seen several photos of broken bits here… 60’s are sick, especially when factoring the scrub issue that’s resolved, turning radius, and beef….
this is going down a rabbit hole and I stand with I would welding around the tubes, adding to the rosset welds, and re welding on new brackets.- another fun one is adding caster by spinning knuckles- this one is over my capabilities.

 

[Zachanadandy]

A small added benefit of the rock krawler triangulated 4 link kit in the rear is the axle truss, which when welded in should prevent the potential of spinning a tube. The main benefits are far more important, just something I noticed installing mine. The kit fixes the huge pinion angle changes you get with suspension travel in the stock set up. The short uppers and long lowers is just a bad design for a suspension with a lot of travel. The stock uppers are ~15", the rock crawler uppers are 24". It also eliminates the rear track bar which almost entirely removes the head toss you get hitting bumps at an angle. The lack of a rear trackbar also frees up the space underneath to clear a 37"+ spare. By far the single biggest upgrade to ride and performance I've ever installed on a Jeep for under $1k.

 

[JT1]

A small added benefit of the rock krawler triangulated 4 link kit in the rear is the axle truss, which when welded in should prevent the potential of spinning a tube. The main benefits are far more important, just something I noticed installing mine. The kit fixes the huge pinion angle changes you get with suspension travel in the stock set up. The short uppers and long lowers is just a bad design for a suspension with a lot of travel. The stock uppers are ~15", the rock crawler uppers are 24". It also eliminates the rear track bar which almost entirely removes the head toss you get hitting bumps at an angle. The lack of a rear trackbar also frees up the space underneath to clear a 37"+ spare. By far the single biggest upgrade to ride and performance I've ever installed on a Jeep for under $1k.

Zach, did you bolt yours on or is it welded?

 

[darkhorse13]

By far the single biggest upgrade to ride and performance I've ever installed on a Jeep for under $1k.

^^ 1000% agree with this ^^

I have the RK 4-link on my Jeep and love it! All of the points above PLUS the added benefit of making spring swaps a piece of cake. Unhook (2) shock bolts and (2) sway bar end link nuts and this thing will droop down (perfectly straight mind you) to make future spring swaps so easy.

 

[BlueScapegoat]

Not to continue to steer the thread away from the initial conversation, but has anybody ever rebuilt Rock Krawler joints? Or can tell me how they compare to a Johnny Joint, for instance?

I was planning on going Core4x4 JJ arms all around but the triangulated rear is really tempting.

Also wondering if the rear U bolts are really necessary if you weld the "truss" to the tube... I surely wouldn't think so. Not that it really matters but I'd rather my weld on suspension components don't look bolt on if I can avoid it. I have a similar rear triangulated truss by Savvy on my TJ and there aren't any unsightly U bolts or anything like that.

And I guess that def tank would have to go too. What a shame.

 

[setexascustoms]

Why not just go with a DANA 60?

Lot's of different axles on the Glads, depending on the model. The Gladiator axles aren't the same as JL OR JK axles.

Umm, money? $250 for the truss kit and I'm a welder by trade, vs thousands of dollars in axles, drive lines, wheels, etc.

 

[Ericshere03]

Umm, money? $250 for the truss kit and I'm a welder by trade, vs thousands of dollars in axles, drive lines, wheels, etc.

Consider all costs …

If your looking regear also, this is easy…

Ultimate Dana 60 straight from DANA is 6k.
Regearing 1 aCole is 1500 bucks
Sell stock axle for 2500

you’re left with a 2k upgrade to a Dana 60. Stock wheels will bolt up.

all that being said, I’m likely going to keep my stock 44 when I regear. But I was curious about welding the tubes

 

[Zachanadandy]

Consider all costs …

If your looking regear also, this is easy…

Ultimate Dana 60 straight from DANA is 6k.
Regearing 1 aCole is 1500 bucks
Sell stock axle for 2500

you’re left with a 2k upgrade to a Dana 60. Stock wheels will bolt up.

all that being said, I’m likely going to keep my stock 44 when I regear. But I was curious about welding the tubes

That's some optimistic math at best. Good luck selling a stock rear axle for $2500. I'm not sure why you'd subtract the cost of regearing 1 axle when in reality you'd have to add that cost to get the front to match the rear. $1500 to regear the front, $6k for the semi-float 60 rear which is only a marginal upgrade in my opinion, and in reality you'll likely only get $1k for a stock rear axle. So you're $6500 out of pocket to have mismatched front and rear axles like an old 3/4 ton truck with a 44 front and almost a "60" rear? Now your front is the huge weak link, and much more involved to fix a front shaft or ujoint.

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