bcurtman
Active Member
- First Name
- Bryan
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2021
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 41
- Reaction score
- 65
- Location
- Rosebud, MO
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Jeep Gladiator, 1988 Jeep Wrangler with 4BT
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- Occupation
- Insurance Agent
- Thread starter
- #1
Gladiator Sport S Max Tow
Daily driver for 15 mile round trip commute
Occasionally will drive 50-80 miles for a doctors appt, shopping, etc
All local driving is at 55 mph with one person, empty-please keep that in mind!
Tires changed to Kanati 12.50-35-17, probably about 34" tall, 3" lift, Diamondback bed cover
Plan is to use it for weeklong / weekend trips pulling a 2 person tiny camper weighing about 1500-1800 lbs, bed loaded with camping gear, 2 people, and yes we will go to the mountains and will have to drive from central Missouri across Kansas.
In stock form with approx 31" tall tires and 4.10 gears, it should have run 70 mph at 2085 rpm.
I have to assume this is somewhat of a sweet spot and in the power band for the best mileage. No experience towing with it stock nor checking mileage much as we put the tires and lift on right away.
Math says I am now running around 1901 rpms with the new tires at 70 mph. So with only a rpm drop of 184, I am now hunting for 7th and often 6th on hills that are not at all steep. Torque curve must really drop off below 2000 rpm!! Especially true on 55 mph roads where engine would be at 1493 rpms. Dont see 8th very much here in the Ozarks.
Same scenario, 4.88's should put me at 2262 rpm, for an increase of around 177 over stock.
Is that enough of being the "same or better" to add the trailer and extra weight, or is adding 294 rpms over stock with 5.13 gears (2379 rpms) going to make me a happier camper when towing the trailer into the Kansas headwind and heading into the mountains? Only 1869 rpms at 55 mph, for what its worth 8th gear).
Looking for input from folks with actual experience vs just guesswork. Virtually no chance I would ever go to 37" tires. Might do E-lockers when I do the gears, which is immaterial I know. 4.88 seems to be the go-to. I only want to do it once and do it right. I wonder if there is a dyno torque curve available for this engine?
Daily driver for 15 mile round trip commute
Occasionally will drive 50-80 miles for a doctors appt, shopping, etc
All local driving is at 55 mph with one person, empty-please keep that in mind!
Tires changed to Kanati 12.50-35-17, probably about 34" tall, 3" lift, Diamondback bed cover
Plan is to use it for weeklong / weekend trips pulling a 2 person tiny camper weighing about 1500-1800 lbs, bed loaded with camping gear, 2 people, and yes we will go to the mountains and will have to drive from central Missouri across Kansas.
In stock form with approx 31" tall tires and 4.10 gears, it should have run 70 mph at 2085 rpm.
I have to assume this is somewhat of a sweet spot and in the power band for the best mileage. No experience towing with it stock nor checking mileage much as we put the tires and lift on right away.
Math says I am now running around 1901 rpms with the new tires at 70 mph. So with only a rpm drop of 184, I am now hunting for 7th and often 6th on hills that are not at all steep. Torque curve must really drop off below 2000 rpm!! Especially true on 55 mph roads where engine would be at 1493 rpms. Dont see 8th very much here in the Ozarks.
Same scenario, 4.88's should put me at 2262 rpm, for an increase of around 177 over stock.
Is that enough of being the "same or better" to add the trailer and extra weight, or is adding 294 rpms over stock with 5.13 gears (2379 rpms) going to make me a happier camper when towing the trailer into the Kansas headwind and heading into the mountains? Only 1869 rpms at 55 mph, for what its worth 8th gear).
Looking for input from folks with actual experience vs just guesswork. Virtually no chance I would ever go to 37" tires. Might do E-lockers when I do the gears, which is immaterial I know. 4.88 seems to be the go-to. I only want to do it once and do it right. I wonder if there is a dyno torque curve available for this engine?
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