Weathertech Mud Flaps

[smlobx]

Is yours a Sport S with Max tow? Are these Sport, Sport S mud flaps?

I got my Rubicon Flaps to install on Sport S, Max Tow with Rubicon Rock Rails, but am having a hard time getting the bottom two screws to catch the clips. I loosened up the Rock Rail bolts to see if it need to slide toward the rear more and that hasn’t helped.

Does anyone know if the Sport S mud flaps have a depression for the rock rails like the Rubicon flaps do?

‘Don’t know the answer to your specific question but I do know that the fenders on the Rubicon are different than the ones on the Sport...

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[JCJeep1]

Is yours a Sport S with Max tow? Are these Sport, Sport S mud flaps?

I got my Rubicon Flaps to install on Sport S, Max Tow with Rubicon Rock Rails, but am having a hard time getting the bottom two screws to catch the clips. I loosened up the Rock Rail bolts to see if it need to slide toward the rear more and that hasn’t helped.

Does anyone know if the Sport S mud flaps have a depression for the rock rails like the Rubicon flaps do?

I have the Sport S Max Tow - and yes the mudflaps have been molded for both the rock rails and the steps - there are depressions for both. These were ordered from WeatherTech for the Sport S - they don't have an option impacting Max Tow

 

[JT-S-Maxi-IND]

I have the Sport S Max Tow - and yes the mudflaps have been molded for both the rock rails and the steps - there are depressions for both. These were ordered from WeatherTech for the Sport S - they don't have an option impacting Max Tow

Thank-you. You have the same vehicle configuration as I do so now we know, get the Sport S Weathertech mud flaps.

FYI for others......

the Weathertech Rubicon front mud flaps do not fit the Sport S Max Tow fenders.

the Weathertech Rubicon rear mud flaps don’t come close to fitting the rear Sport S Max Tow

thanks JCJeep1 for keeping us up to date on your experience.

 

[JCJeep1]

So there were couple questions on if they were molded for steps / rock rails - I took a couple closer pics to show you - Inner molding holds the rockrails - Outer molding is aligned for the step option for the Sport S -

 

[K Dub]

What is this extra "lip" on your flares? Mine isn't like this....

 

[K Dub]

Mine are smooth on the outside. Like this:

 

[JCJeep1]

What is this extra "lip" on your flares? Mine isn't like this....

Those are the Max Tow Fenders - that lip is used in conjunction with the wider axle stance. - Factory fenders btw

 

[JT-S-Maxi-IND]

Those are the Max Tow Fenders - that lip is used in conjunction with the wider axle stance. - Factory fenders btw

Yep, my Max Tow has same lip on fender.

 

[K Dub]

AHHHHH!!! Makes sense. I've never noticed that until just now....

 

[Gatorized]

‘Don’t know the answer to your specific question but I do know that the genders on the Rubicon are different than the ones on the Sport...

LOL! I know you meant fenders, not genders...

Installed front and rear Weathertech flaps on my Rubicon today. They look great!
Some tips:
- The plastic rivets can be removed by punching the pin into the rivet. Once the pin has been pushed in a 1/2 inch or so, the rivet can be pulled out. Give the pin a good shot using a punch and hammer if needed. These do not get reused so no harm if they break.
- pry out the other plastic plugs with a trim tool.
- if the 2 hex head screws on the front flaps do not seat correctly they will distort the alignment of the last hole where the plastic plug is inserted as the last step. There should be no gap between the flap and the fender after the plug is put in the hole, I think the metal u-clip nuts for the hex head screws are too short to line up with the plastic holes causing the screws to push against the backing liner. I was able to install without these screws which allowed the flaps to align perfectly as they should. Not sure these are really needed but left them off for now while I try to get better fitting u-clip nuts.- while working to figure out what the alignment problem was I replaced the plastic plug with a M6x1.0 Phillips head screw, fender washer and locking flange nut (like the other nuts supplied). With extra hands was able to hold the nut at the back with some skinny needle nose pliers while aligning nut with the screw and tightening. A spring claw grabber tool might have worked better had I had one handy.
- removed the 3rd plastic rivet on front fender edge to help get the inner liner pulled out to put on the narrow u-clip nut. Might not be an issue in warmer weather... was about 35 degrees here during install. I initially tried without removing this rivet, but it just pulled the 3rd rivet through liner on the first side, so I preemptively removed it on the other side. These plastic rivets are not reusable so I will have to get some replacements to fill that hole.
- turn tires to full lock and use a stubby Phillips head for the innermost screw.
- for your own installation enjoyment, wait for warmer weather or find a heated garage!

 

[JCJeep1]

LOL! I know you meant fenders, not genders...

Installed front and rear Weathertech flaps on my Rubicon today. They look great!
Some tips:
- The plastic rivets can be removed by punching the pin into the rivet. Once the pin has been pushed in a 1/2 inch or so, the rivet can be pulled out. Give the pin a good shot using a punch and hammer if needed. These do not get reused so no harm if they break.
- pry out the other plastic plugs with a trim tool.
- if the 2 hex head screws on the front flaps do not seat correctly they will distort the alignment of the last hole where the plastic plug is inserted as the last step. There should be no gap between the flap and the fender after the plug is put in the hole, I think the metal u-clip nuts for the hex head screws are too short to line up with the plastic holes causing the screws to push against the backing liner. I was able to install without these screws which allowed the flaps to align perfectly as they should. Not sure these are really needed but left them off for now while I try to get better fitting u-clip nuts.- while working to figure out what the alignment problem was I replaced the plastic plug with a M6x1.0 Phillips head screw, fender washer and locking flange nut (like the other nuts supplied). With extra hands was able to hold the nut at the back with some skinny needle nose pliers while aligning nut with the screw and tightening. A spring claw grabber tool might have worked better had I had one handy.
- removed the 3rd plastic rivet on front fender edge to help get the inner liner pulled out to put on the narrow u-clip nut. Might not be an issue in warmer weather... was about 35 degrees here during install. I initially tried without removing this rivet, but it just pulled the 3rd rivet through liner on the first side, so I preemptively removed it on the other side. These plastic rivets are not reusable so I will have to get some replacements to fill that hole.
- turn tires to full lock and use a stubby Phillips head for the innermost screw.
- for your own installation enjoyment, wait for warmer weather or find a heated garage!

Hmm- i used angle wire cutters - cut the stock rivets off (Garbage anyway) and followed the directions from there. The three clipnuts and 1 bolt with nut - more than firm and easy to install. The Weathertech came with all the plugs and hardware needed. shockingly easy. Fully recommend WT - now lets see what they do for rear fenders.

 

[fixbroke]

I just installed a set of these on my Rubicon, since I noticed that mud gets flung into all sorts of crevices in the bedsides and I'm hoping to avoid the rust that will eventually bring.

If you drive much off road, these aren't going to be great. They are very rigid, and I expect they'll get ripped off when driven in deep mud or smacked on rocks (possibly taking part of the fender and/or inner liner with it). It's clear that WeatherTech designs this stuff for the on-road crowd.

I had hoped that they'd be made of a more flexible polyurethane, or failing that, that they'd be easy to remove. The way these attach, it would be a real pain in the ass to remove them before wheeling on rocks. I'm looking for a way to make them attach with riv-nuts and thumbscrews, or perhaps I'll get rid of them and buy the other ones since they sound like they're more of what I'm after.

 

[fixbroke]

Also, in case WeatherTech might be listening...
The mounting hardware supplied with these is terrible. The panel clip for the front inner fender (the one that replaces the top plastic rivet) is way too short, forcing you to trim your fender if you want it to fit. Even with that obvious cock-up, it's just baffling that for the 5 fastening points on the front fender, there are 4 different types of fasteners, and none of them are designed to break away in a potentially fender-damaging impact.

The rear fastener design is simpler and better, but the WeatherTech engineers really need to brush the dust off their Design for Assembly textbooks.

 

[Cleankat]

FYI, the rear flaps for the overland were just recently released, mine come tomorrow will let everyone know how they are.

Update: Just put the rears on. Install was q breeze, 15 minutes tops, don't have to mess with rivets like the Mopar ones either. I'm pleased with them it bugged the heck out of me to only have them on the front so was pumped when these were released, I've always been happy with weathertech products. One thing that does irk my OCD is the silver bolts.....which is ironic because the nut on the backside is black. Probably going to swap out the hardware at some point

 

[Puttyandnapalm]

Also, in case WeatherTech might be listening...
The mounting hardware supplied with these is terrible. The panel clip for the front inner fender (the one that replaces the top plastic rivet) is way too short, forcing you to trim your fender if you want it to fit. Even with that obvious cock-up, it's just baffling that for the 5 fastening points on the front fender, there are 4 different types of fasteners, and none of them are designed to break away in a potentially fender-damaging impact.

The rear fastener design is simpler and better, but the WeatherTech engineers really need to brush the dust off their Design for Assembly textbooks.

I’m having a devil of a time with the top bolt getting it to line up right on the front driver side.

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