Winch Interrupter

[WILDHOBO]

Have any of you found posts about where and how to mount this warn interrupt solenoid? I’m intending to use one of my aux switches for it instead of the included switch but that’s fairly straight forward. I’m mostly concerned with where to put the solenoid and how to attach it (bracket?)

I installed similar to @Lost1wing and also used an aux switch (4) for mine. I used some aluminum angle iron and large rubber washers to avoid paint scratching. It works perfectly, and the Warn model is rated for winch amp draw. Wire routing has since been cleaned up from how this was. This was five mins after install.

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[Jcsii]

I guess I am really cheap, I leave the positive cable disconnected until I need it...

That being said, I will probably go with one of these guys in the future. I like the fact they include a trip curve in their documentation and the temp range seems decent. Also IP66. I am not saying this is the size I will use, I haven't really done the research on the load of my winch yet.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7148/187-Series_Circuit_Breaker_-_Surface_Mount_150A

Having worked in the solar industry, quality DC components (switches and contactors) in the >100amp range are pricey if you want them to open reliably under load. Fortunately, that's not really the application with a winch.

 

[Coldtoes]

Now that I installed it this way, I screwed myself for the ability to install a hood bungee. I guess for me the prop stick is fine.

Thank you for the pictures. That's very helpful.

The black box is a switch, correct? Is that also for the air compressor?

 

[Coldtoes]

I installed similar to @Lost1wing and also used an aux switch (4) for mine. I used some aluminum angle iron and large rubber washers to avoid paint scratching. It works perfectly, and the Warn model is rated for winch amp draw. Wire routing has since been cleaned up from how this was. This was five mins after install.

Thank you for the photo & info, the additional perspective is helpful.

I know some of the aux switches are higher amperage (40 vs 15?), than others, but for this application, we only need the low amperage location since this is acting like a relay... right?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I guess I am really cheap, I leave the positive cable disconnected until I need it...

I used what came with the winch. (pic below)

I installed similar to @Lost1wing and also used an aux switch (4) for mine. I used some aluminum angle iron and large rubber washers to avoid paint scratching. It works perfectly, and the Warn model is rated for winch amp draw.

That looks like it would fit where I have my manual cut-off now.
Since the new one will have aux switches, I had considered using one of those for a solenoid but am leery of too many of the solenoids I've seen. I have not checked with my supplier of auto electric stuff if they have a solenoid rated high enough.
What does Warn actually rate theirs - and duty cycle? Do they publish their actual rating - and not just surge or momentary?

Be wary of those you see on eBay and Amazon - when it says "350 amps" that is almost always surge and constant draw is a fraction of that.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I used what came with the winch. (pic below)




That looks like it would fit where I have my manual cut-off now.
Since the new one will have aux switches, I had considered using one of those for a solenoid but am leery of too many of the solenoids I've seen. I have not checked with my supplier of auto electric stuff if they have a solenoid rated high enough.
What does Warn actually rate theirs - and duty cycle? Do they publish their actual rating - and not just surge or momentary?

We wary of those you see on eBay and Amazon - when it says "350 amps" that is almost always surge and constant draw is a fraction of that.

That’s why I bought the one from Warn, as it’s designed for continuous draw from a 12k winch. I’ve used my winch around a dozen times now for real recoveries, and have yet to have an issue. I totally agree that saving $40 by getting something not designed for this is asking for trouble. It was always on my list to prime and paint the angle iron, but with billet silver paint not contrasting much, and the fact that the raw aluminum isn’t touching anything but the bolt, it hasn’t been a priority. And it’s under the hood, so only I see it. I still may do it someday though.

 

[John in the Woods]

Thank you for the pictures. That's very helpful.

The black box is a switch, correct? Is that also for the air compressor?

With a big nod to @rickrogan, here's how I did mine. Battery in the diesel is in a slightly different spot, but it's the same idea ...

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...y-trail-rig-and-overlander.48591/#post-894893

 

[Lost1wing]

Circuit

Thank you for the pictures. That's very helpful.

The black box is a switch, correct? Is that also for the air compressor?

It is a 60amp circuit breaker for my switch panel install. The grey solenoid is for a 30 amp dc plug in the cargo bed. The relay box for my switch panel is on the other side.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Thank you for the photo & info, the additional perspective is helpful.

I know some of the aux switches are higher amperage (40 vs 15?), than others, but for this application, we only need the low amperage location since this is acting like a relay... right?

Correct. You’re just activating the relay, so you need almost no power.

From a safety standpoint, when consideing a cheaper disconnect solution, remember that there will be situations where you need someone to pull winch line for you, when you’re in the vehicle in a compromised position, potentially unstable. The last thing you want is to need to open the hood and reach for a connection. It’s much safer to tell the person helping that you’ve put power to the winch, after pressing a button inside the cab.

 

[Coldtoes]

Correct. You’re just activating the relay, so you need almost no power.

From a safety standpoint, when consideing a cheaper disconnect solution, remember that there will be situations where you need someone to pull winch line for you, when you’re in the vehicle in a compromised position, potentially unstable. The last thing you want is to need to open the hood and reach for a connection. It’s much safer to tell the person helping that you’ve put power to the winch, after pressing a button inside the cab.

Thanks, yeah I’ve been in one of those situations in a ‘13 JKUR I used to have. I strongly believe the winch needs to be able to be turned on from inside the cab.

 

[Coldtoes]

With a big nod to @rickrogan, here's how I did mine. Battery in the diesel is in a slightly different spot, but it's the same idea ...

https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...y-trail-rig-and-overlander.48591/#post-894893

Thanks, I like that too and also love the connection block, very clean.

 

[Rusty PW]

Correct. You’re just activating the relay, so you need almost no power.

From a safety standpoint, when consideing a cheaper disconnect solution, remember that there will be situations where you need someone to pull winch line for you, when you’re in the vehicle in a compromised position, potentially unstable. The last thing you want is to need to open the hood and reach for a connection. It’s much safer to tell the person helping that you’ve put power to the winch, after pressing a button inside the cab.

That's why I like the wireless remote. I could winch from inside, or pass it to someone outside.

 

[WILDHOBO]

The wireless remote shouldn’t be the way the winch receives power though. To avoid a fire with a front bumper impact, power should be cut from the winch unless it’s in use. The solenoid controls master power, then the remote is control. And yes, my remote is always in the glove box.

 

[Lost1wing]

I can see a putting a disconnect or a switch under the hood. When out on the trail or in the woods, you can have it connected direct to the battery. When getting groceries, it can be disconnected to prevent unexpected short circuits. The problem is people get lazy and will just leave it connected posing a danger.

Just think about those in Michigan getting sued because of a dealer employees mistake. Imagine that you happen to be at fault in a collision and your winch setup started a fire in that collision. 15 million wouldn't be the only punishment. Play it safe with a control switch in the vehicle. Sometimes being frugal is not the best option. Everyone's situation is different, so just be careful out there.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I can see a putting a disconnect or a switch under the hood. When out on the trail or in the woods, you can have it connected direct to the battery. When getting groceries, it can be disconnected to prevent unexpected short circuits. The problem is people get lazy and will just leave it connected posing a danger.

Just think about those in Michigan getting sued because of a dealer employees mistake. Imagine that you happen to be at fault in a collision and your winch setup started a fire in that collision. 15 million wouldn't be the only punishment. Play it safe with a control switch in the vehicle. Sometimes being frugal is not the best option. Everyone's situation is different, so just be careful out there.

And this isn’t even that expensive. I bought the Warn part number solenoid on Amazon for $80. And it included all battery cables, hardware, and a switch if you don’t have, or don’t want to use an aux switch. Thats seriously cheap for a turn key solution.

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