Your battery voltage - truck off and at rest

[ShadowsPapa]

The brackets are $249.00.

Holy crap - if I had a pair to make drawings from I know a couple of guys that could make me a set in stainless for a fraction of that. It's amazing what people will pay for Jeep accessories that can be stamped out by the thousands by machine.

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[chorky]

Holy crap - if I had a pair to make drawings from I know a couple of guys that could make me a set in stainless for a fraction of that. It's amazing what people will pay for Jeep accessories that can be stamped out by the thousands by machine.

Things are no doubt excessively expensive. Like price gouging expensive. But not a lot of people have either the fab skills, or the tools and equipment or place or time to fab up things. I hate these insane costs. But fall into that group that has skills but neither the time nor place or tools to do so…. Which sucks.

I am curious, are you opposed to doing anh mod while it is under warranty? just curious. I am debating myself a few things but making sure they dont void a warranty first.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I am curious, are you opposed to doing anh mod while it is under warranty? just curious. I am debating myself a few things but making sure they dont void a warranty first.

I'm a bit old-skool on some things, like my parents - it's under warranty, it should work as designed, as advertised and I should not be responsible for repairs or replacement parts (unless I wish to upgrade or modify like with a bumper, etc.
There's no reason I should have to spring for any batteries - yet.
Once it's out of warranty, I'll weigh my options. I'd likely prefer 2 matching batteries, especially since it would appear that both perform cold start cranking unless that relay between the two opens for start cycles. Both are in parallel and connected when sitting at rest, the truck not in ESS mode and both are connected and in parallel when charging either while driving, or with your battery charger.
But - are they still sitting in parallel, connect N to N and P to P when you push the button to start it? If so, then it would seem a dual battery setup with matching batteries would be some advantage and in any case, with our driving and the 2 minute timed stop lights around here, I'll keep ESS working.
But for now - Jeep is responsible for keeping things working on all things in the warranty except anything I have modified or replaced with non-Jeep parts.

 

[Rusty PW]

Holy crap - if I had a pair to make drawings from I know a couple of guys that could make me a set in stainless for a fraction of that. It's amazing what people will pay for Jeep accessories that can be stamped out by the thousands by machine.

JEEP = Just Empty Every Pocket.

If I was back at Elliott. I could make the out of anything. Inconel, Waspalloy, Titanium, Stainless.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

JEEP = Just Empty Every Pocket.

If I was back at Elliott. I could make the out of anything. Inconel, Waspalloy, Titanium, Stainless.

Gold pressed latinum?
I recall a 70 Javelin at a show here on the east side a few years ago. The guy was a sheet metal worker - the gas tank under that car was a work of art, and will never rust (the car will be rotted away first). It was stainless steel and not an amateur looking job, either.

I plan on making an excuse to go to town tomorrow to exercise and train the IBS. Can't really do much more until it goes back to school.

 

[JET_83]

14.5 while running not sure at rest

 

[Mr._Bill]

The Genesis Dual Battery system uses a Cole-Hersee Smart Isolator. After the primary battery reaches a certain level, it parallels them together until the engine is shut off. It keeps them paired for up to 15 minutes after, or until the charge levels start to vary. It has a button that can be used to force them to parallel for 60 seconds to start the truck if the primary battery becomes discharged.

Since the Genesis installation instructions have you remove the fuse box to pull and discard the ESS battery, that could create a warranty issue. If the fuse box is not correctly reinstalled, it will create electrical issues. The drawback to the Genesis kit is having to buy two new batteries that don't match any of the Jeep standard sizes.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The Genesis Dual Battery system uses a Cole-Hersee Smart Isolator. After the primary battery reaches a certain level, it parallels them together until the engine is shut off. It keeps them paired for up to 15 minutes after, or until the charge levels start to vary. It has a button that can be used to force them to parallel for 60 seconds to start the truck if the primary battery becomes discharged.

Since the Genesis installation instructions have you remove the fuse box to pull and discard the ESS battery, that could create a warranty issue. If the fuse box is not correctly reinstalled, it will create electrical issues. The drawback to the Genesis kit is having to buy two new batteries that don't match any of the Jeep standard sizes.

I have no need for the dual battery "system", I'd only ever modify things (AFTER warranty if I did) to rig two identical batteries and still keep the stock system otherwise. It would be strictly to match battery size and capacity as most battery makers says don't parallel charge batteries of different AGES and CAPACITIES. So I find it odd that a dealer would replace one battery in a vehicle that is 2 years old or so. But the warnings come from battery companies - so is it real, or what?

Of course that's coming from battery companies. Others outside of the industry disagree and say it's not a big problem, but a small one.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/wp-content/uploads/2007/05/can-we-now-sin.pdf


From Optima -
Can I connect my new BLUETOP® D31M in parallel with my one-year old (Other brand) Marine 29 series?

We would strongly discourage anyone from connecting batteries in series or parallel applications, if the batteries are not identical in age, size and type. It sounds like your batteries are different in each of those ways. Different brands of batteries can have different charging and discharging characteristics, with some accepting a charge or delivering current faster than others. That can be true even if the batteries are the same size. Different types of batteries (flooded or AGM) also can have different charge/discharge characteristics. When you connect two or more batteries that don't charge and discharge at the same rate, one battery will probably end up overcharged and/or one battery will end up undercharged. Neither is a scenario you want to have happen to your batteries, as it will probably shorten the lifespan of both and could create a potentially create a dangerous situation, if one battery gets severely overcharged.

The same is also true of batteries that are identical in every way, except that one battery is older than the other. As batteries age (or get used), their charge/discharge profile changes. As such, they essentially charge and discharge at a different rate a year later, than they did when they were brand-new. That means you shouldn't connect batteries together that aren't the same age or haven't been used in the same application since they were new, even if they are the exact same make and model.

Unfortunately, that means when one battery in a bank of two or more batteries needs to be replaced, they should all be replaced at the same time. That doesn't mean the other functioning batteries should be discarded entirely, but they should not be used in an application that has batteries that differ in age, size or type. For some marine and RV applications that use a lot of batteries, it may make sense to isolate a larger bank of nine batteries into three smaller banks of three batteries, instead of connecting them all together. That way, if one battery goes bad, far fewer batteries need to be replaced.

 

[jebiruph]

This system is not new to the JL/JT, it's been in use since MY 2016. Here's a partial list that show's when it started being used on various models and I think it's still in use in these models. FCA must be satisfied that it functions as expected.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

This system is not new to the JL/JT, it's been in use since MY 2016. Here's a partial list that show's when it started being used on various models and I think it's still in use in these models. FCA must be satisfied that it functions as expected.

I think the bigger issue is the untrained people in the shops. They see the cluster screen saying battery charging, they know the low battery voltages, they have to charge a battery for over half an hour just to do the minimal test on it, and they say "it's fine" and don't do anything.
If it was fine it would work and battery voltages would be over 12.19 volts
Even after charging and with cable removed, the voltage can be seen dropping fairly quickly.

 

[DobaMark]

My stop start continues to work for well over a week now, after the third time on the external charger. Or was it just a coincidence that it started working after the calendar switched to spring?

Oh well, I've got another year of warranty left if it's the battery I guess.

 

[ScottLars]

I was have frequent ESS/Battery Charging issue last fall. At that point the truck was not even a year old yet. I replaced both factory batteries Dec 21, 2021 based on information that that is what the dealer would probably do. I didn't want the same "crappy" OEM batteries so I changed them myself. I went with Die Hard AGM batteries from Advanced Auto.

Everything has been working fine up until the other day. I purchased a trailer plug adapter that turns the 7 pin plug into a 12V (cigarette) power port. I plugged in a 410 watt invertor into the power port to power a Coleman thermoelectric cooler. The invertor has a gauge and meter showing battery voltage. When I powered it up with cooler plugged for only a minute or two, the meter showed 11.5-7 volts. Can't remember exactly but just remember that it was well under 12V. I immediately turned it off and tabled that project for now.

Fast forward to the next morning when I was driving to work the cluster was showing ESS not ready battery charging (this was working the previous day before the invertor "incident"). It is still in this state as of this morning, 3 days later. I have only had short trips 10-15 minutes at at time, so not a lot of time to completely charge. Although I drove the vehicle for a couple of one hour trips on Sunday prior to this.

Put multimeter on main battery with everything still hooked up last night and got 12.5V. Checked this morning before leaving for work and showed 12.4V. Temps in the mid 60s.

I will check again this evening when I return home. If it is still not working and battery not above 12.5V after driving, I will put it on charger to see what happens.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Minor update on mine:
Last drive was Tuesday night, 45 minutes out, sat for 60 minutes, then 45 minutes back home, mostly highway 55 to 65.
Today I checked the battery voltage before leaving for town and it read 12.47
Hmmm, better than it has been doing.
25 minutes to town it was reading 14.6 the whole way except when I got up to 65 or the RPM climbed on the hills then it hit 14.7 once in a while, otherwise it was 99.9% of the time at 14.6. Just like Tuesday night, for the most part. It stayed pretty steady at 14.6
Once the cabin temp was reached the message on the dash went away and it changed to ready. That was about 2 or so miles out, it's 32 and windy today.
Made a couple of stops in town, ESS worked perfectly.
On the way back the voltage again read a very steady 14.6 with a bounce to 14.7 a couple times at higher RPM.
I got back, backed into the garage, shut things off, opened the hood and measured....... about 12.55 volts.
I'm not happy with the below 12.7 or higher voltage but on the other hand, that seems to be a unicorn on these trucks. 12.5 is certainly far batter than it was. Hopeful............. maybe...........
Too bad the IBS is a slow learner, and takes so long to figure things out but then that makes sense as it has to account for load while unused, and all sorts of other things to report back to mother PCM.

 

[Gatorized]

Haven’t driven in over a week - sitting at 12.40V before I started it up and went for a ride. Reading 14.5 - 14.6V for a 30 minute ride around town. Still at 12.40V when I got home.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Drove mine around quite a bit today. Drove it Saturday night. And yet when I connect a charger to the main battery 1 hour after getting back from driving all over east Des Moines and home on the interstate - yes, that says it's 66%. After driving!

It went up to 99% fairly quickly (I upped it to 10 amps) but it's been sitting there in the final stages of charging (at 99%) for 2 hours.

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