Did I screw up and buy the wrong truck?

[Raven65]

The mention of a Toyota tacoma is funny to me…. The gladiator isn’t a hot rod by any means….. but the tacoma is the most gutless under powered truck I have ever been in.

Dude... you have no idea. LOL! My Taco was the BASE model... so base they don't even offer it anymore. A 2WD regular cab "long" (6.5') bed with a 2.7L 4-cylinder and 5-speed manual. The only options were A/C and a sliding window in the back glass. That engine is legendary in terms of reliability, but is truly a gutless wonder. I can't believe they still sell it in the current base model.

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[Alans17]

Dude... you have no idea. LOL! My Taco was the BASE model... so base they don't even offer it anymore. A 2WD regular cab "long" (6.5') bed with a 2.4L 4-cylinder and 5-speed manual. The only options were A/C and a sliding window in the back glass. That engine is legendary in terms of reliability, but is truly a gutless wonder. I can't believe they still sell it in the current base model.

That’s exactly how they maintain reliability… Find something that works and then run it past it’s useful life.

 

[TheOpa]

@Raven65
I’ll echo what some have already said. I can speak from experience when I say the 3.73’s and open diffs will pleasantly surprise you with their capability. I have a lift and 35” tires to get me onto or over some of PA’s rocks but flat roads don’t need even that. Good AT tires I think are a basic essential. The only thing not mentioned yet that I think is worth saying is that the line you pick to go over, around, or through an obstacle can make a difference. You said something about off road on two wheels so you may already know something about reading the terrain but tires and the line you choose are where I recommend that you focus. The rest of the expensive add on’s will identify themselves when or if you start taking your JT into more difficult terrain but for now just go out and enjoy that new truck with confidence.

 

[Raven65]

That’s exactly how they maintain reliability… Find something that works and then run it past it’s useful life.

I think it's a little more than that. That particular engine is truly overbuilt. Mine had 237k miles on it when my daughter wrecked it (thankfully no injuries) and it still ran like new. Didn't burn a drop of oil. Literally the ONLY repair it ever required the whole time I owned it was a starter solenoid rebuild - which I did myself in about an hour with $27 worth of parts in a rebuild kit I ordered from Amazon. It was (is) just a very solidly-built basic engine. Timing CHAIN rather than belt, no crazy electronics, direct injection, etc. - which makes if underpowered and inefficient as compared to newer designs, but will run forever with very little maintenance required (really just basic fluid changes). Perfect for fleet vehicles.

 

[Raven65]

@Raven65
I’ll echo what some have already said. I can speak from experience when I say the 3.73’s and open diffs will pleasantly surprise you with their capability. I have a lift and 35” tires to get me onto or over some of PA’s rocks but flat roads don’t need even that. Good AT tires I think are a basic essential. The only thing not mentioned yet that I think is worth saying is that the line you pick to go over, around, or through an obstacle can make a difference. You said something about off road on two wheels so you may already know something about reading the terrain but tires and the line you choose are where I recommend that you focus. The rest of the expensive add on’s will identify themselves when or if you start taking your JT into more difficult terrain but for now just go out and enjoy that new truck with confidence.

Back on topic... Thanks for that reply! Makes me feel much better about this (big) purchase. Yes, I have been riding/racing dirt bikes offroad my entire life - well, since I was 12 years old - so 45 years or so - and still do - so I know plenty about reading terrain for them - but have ZERO experience doing it with a two-plus-ton 4-wheeler. I know it's a completely different ballgame and I have a lot to learn, so I'll definitely stick to the easier stuff at first - but I know that even on supposedly "easy" trails, you can come across unexpected obstacles - like deep mud. I'll just try to be smart about it.

 

[IRQ]

Stock YJ’s, open diffs

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[rr11]

OK I have a Sport S a 2020 with 55 K on it. I mainly run the beach, I have ridden trails in FL, AL, and TN. The open differentials have not been a problem. Take your time feel it out and you will be fine.

 

[@californiajeeping]

You dont need lockers or limited slip for that. It has BLD which grabs the spinning tires with the brake to transfer power to the other side. Its not like an old school open diff. I have had a sport S 2x now and done pretty moderate rock crawling and have yet to get stuck or need a tow. In fact! The only time ive been unable to continue was with a stock gas sport s with 35" tires and I got hung up on a rock.

 

[FrankFrqnkFrank]

Jeep BLD blog

https://blog.stellantisnorthamerica.com/2008/02/11/jeep-brake-traction-control-explained/

 

[Raven65]

Jeep BLD blog

https://blog.stellantisnorthamerica.com/2008/02/11/jeep-brake-traction-control-explained/

Wow... very cool... thanks for that! I (obviously) had no idea. Sounds like this system will be more than enough for my needs. Great! I can't wait to go try it out!

One question... just curious: When BLD detects one wheel spinning faster than the other on a given axle, does it only apply the brake on the spinning wheel, or on both wheels on that axle - or does it brake ALL FOUR wheels (thus the need for twice the torque than what would be needed with a true locker)?

 

[just_another_guy]

Wow... very cool... thanks for that! I (obviously) had no idea. Sounds like this system will be more than enough for my needs. Great! I can't wait to go try it out!

One question... just curious: When BLD detects one wheel spinning faster than the other on a given axle, does it only apply the brake on the spinning wheel, or on both wheels on that axle - or does it brake ALL FOUR wheels (thus the need for twice the torque than what would be needed with a true locker)?

It should only brake the spinning wheel.

On a positive note, you can get a tazer and use the brake assisted turn feature since you have open diffs. If you had a rear lsd you wouldn't be able to.

 

[Snake Eyes]

So, I’m 57 years old and just bought my first Jeep… and in fact, my first 4x4.

I didn’t do enough homework before buying and bought a “Sport S” trim and just realized that the thing has open diffs front and rear. I pulled my build sheet and it says “conventional differentials” on both ends. I don’t plan to do any serious off-roading… no rock climbing or deep mudding, and I live in SC, so no deep snow… but I DO plan to do SOME… like forest service roads in the NC mountains and some mild “Jeep trails”, so I will encounter some steep/slippery hills and some water crossings and mud. I plan to upgrade the tires to something a little more aggressive that the basically street tires that came on the thing.

I don’t think I need lockers, but I would have expected any 4x4 that costs this much - especially a JEEP - to have at least “limited slip” diffs as standard equipment! Even my last truck - a base model 2009 2WD Toyota Tacoma that cost less than $14k brand new had a limited slip rear diff. Now, it was an automatic brake-actuated limited slip rather than a mechanical/clutch pack unit, but still… better than just an open diff! Do I even have that in this Jeep? I guess I can get the same effect by giving it some brake myself while also giving it some throttle and trying to move forward if (when) I get stuck.

Loving this truck otherwise, but the open diffs are a pretty big disappointment. Am I going to get stuck in even just a little bit of mud? Is it possible/easy/practical to upgrade my diffs to limited slip? Did I totally screw up and buy the wrong truck - or will it be ok?

My Sport S Max Tow has the 4.10 and Trac-Lock LSD (comes with Max Tow package) which was nice and the BLDs which all Sport S have. Even without the Trac-Lock you will be fine.

I had a regular Sport S long time ago in my Wrangler TJ and it never ever ever disappointed.

 

[AmosMoses]

*True - don't do much offroading - never have (except on 2 wheels where I have done PLENTY)
*Truck most definitely IS expensive - thus my expectation that limited slip (not lockers) would be standard equipment.
*DID pay attention to trim levels - decided I didn't need the hardcore offroad equipment of the Rubicon/Mojave (true lockers, disconnecting front swaybar, etc) Didn't need all the "luxury equipment of the Overland, considered a Willys, but ultimately came down to availability. My local dealer had this Sport S with a couple of nice options packages (Popular equipment and Technology packages). Again... assumed (incorrectly) that at least "limited slip diffs were included.
*DON'T need true lockers
*Disappointed that a JEEP 4x4 that stickered for $46k has open diffs, but is sounds like the BLD will be all I need (along with better tires and recovery equipment/winch).

You can always sell it and get a Tacoma with the lockers.

 

[bleda2002]

Even my last truck - a base model 2009 2WD Toyota Tacoma that cost less than $14k brand new had a limited slip rear diff. Now, it was an automatic brake-actuated limited slip rather than a mechanical/clutch pack unit, but still…

Thats just brake based traction control (BLD on the Jeep, A-Trac on the Toyota). I've found the jeeps BLD to be about as good if not a bit better than the A-Trac of toyota so you have that built in.

I'd get the bigger aggressive tires, then decide how much you actually need the limited slip. In the rubi i rarely lock up which means i'm also just running open diffs with BLD for most of the time when driving on dirt roads and easy trails.

 

[MrJeep]

Just to add to what has already been said:
Owned 17 Jeeps.
Only 2 have had lockers.
Only use them in fairly extreme off roading/hill climbs.
Tires and disconnecting front sway bar are the real big step up on traction for a guy like you.

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