Hmm, this is an interesting solution. No More Dry Starts

[willys 41]

If my understanding of physics is correct that air pocket at the top of the oil filter housing (the cap) will be compressed. Compressed air over the oil will be force the oil out of the oil filter housing. This is the reason the filter doesn't have lots of oil on it when it's removed after sitting overnight. A very small air bleeder orfice with a check valve an a oil drain line going into the cam cover would eliminate this condition.
Just my two cents.

If what you are saying is true then all vertical filters would not completely fill including the factory filter.
There is a bypass valve at the top of the filter that would bleed off any air.
When ever I change my oil filter on my two Wrangler with the Baxter you must do the filter drain procedure and if you don't all the oil in the filter will spill out every where. That's because of the anti drain valve in the filter and the anti drain back valve in the Baxter.

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[8721coker]

Back in the good old days spin on oil filters were mounted low on the engine block in a vertical position. Some were at a 45 ° angle against the engine block. The engineers knew if they mounted that oil filter threads down there would be an air pocket in the top of the filter that would not allow the oil to fill the chamber completely. We all know that the 3.6 Chrysler oil filter is not dripping oil if you let it sit overnight before you remove the filter. The oil isn't completely filling the oil filter chamber. If you turn off the engine and then remove the oil filter you'll notice the liquid oil isn't completely covering all of the filter media. The Engineers put bleeders on cooling systems to get the air out so it is completely filled with liquid coolant. The same thing happens in that oil filter chamber. The Mazda RX7 back in the '80s had a extended tube that forced the oil to the very end of the oil filter media. It was mounted what we would call upside down, like the 3.6 L is mounted. If you remember the original version of the oil filter on the earlier 3.6 l engines added a vertical tube up into the center of the filter media. Without a bleeder to purge the air out of the cap you have pressurized air which just like and accumulator cylinder when the oil pressure drops so does the level of oil in the chamber.

 

[rr11]

In the late 70's early 80's the manual on my Lycoming 0-235 stated it was normal for it to take 10 seconds before oil pressure showed on the gauge. We would count to 10 while watching the pressure gage. The engine had a 2000 hour TBO service life. I do not know of any one who ever had a problem caused by the delay.

 

[8721coker]

Has anyone with the spin on oil filter adapter removed the oil filter after the engine sat overnight to see if the oil spills out or has drained back overnight like many have said they've witnessed with the original oil filtration design?
Lycoming 0-235 is a wet sump or a dry sump?

 

[Hootbro]

Has anyone with the spin on oil filter adapter removed the oil filter after the engine sat overnight to see if the oil spills out or has drained back overnight like many have said they've witnessed with the original oil filtration design?
Lycoming 0-235 is a wet sump or a dry sump?

Good way to make a mess to prove/disprove a hunch. If buying a recommended size quality oil filter, the ADBV should be keeping all or most of the oil retained.

My setup, I have to add a 1/2 quart of oil to account for the filter and have check my old levels multiple times in the morning after a cold sit and the oil level is fine and never rises. That tells me the oil is being retained in the oil filter.

 

[willys 41]

Has anyone with the spin on oil filter adapter removed the oil filter after the engine sat overnight to see if the oil spills out or has drained back overnight like many have said they've witnessed with the original oil filtration design?
Lycoming 0-235 is a wet sump or a dry sump?

I have seen oil spill out of the oil filter on my Baxter only when I don't do the procedure that empty's the spin on filter long enough.
So unlike the factory filter the Baxter is full of oil.

 

[starrskream]

Maybe a dumb question…
Doesn’t the oil and fuel pumps prime when you push the button into the run position, without stepping on the brake? Idk if that would do much but I’d think with them primed you’d surely limit the time for dry start down to a fraction of a second.

I’ve actually been doing this when cold starting on vehicles for a long time. Turn key to run wait a few seconds for things to prime then start it.

 

[Hootbro]

Maybe a dumb question…
Doesn’t the oil and fuel pumps prime when you push the button into the run position, without stepping on the brake? Idk if that would do much but I’d think with them primed you’d surely limit the time for dry start down to a fraction of a second.

I’ve actually been doing this when cold starting on vehicles for a long time. Turn key to run wait a few seconds for things to prime then start it.

Oil pump does not prime electronically, requires the engine to crank. It does though have a electronic solenoid for variable pressure control but that is only after the engine has started and the oil pump has primed.

 

[8721coker]

From what I've read on here and other message boards it seems like the rocker arm bearing failure is probably not caused by the oil filter or anything part of the oil pressure system. Since this type of rocker arm is used in the Maserati 3.0 with twin turbochargers without a history of rocker arm failures.. the elephant in the room seems to be the oil viscosity. The European engines recommend 5w40 synthetic. So I'm done with the 0w20 5w20 synthetic. A two mpg different is not worth the possibility of paying a $2000 repair bill again. I've already ordered a case of 5 quart bottles of valvoline European 5w40 engine oil and a dozen wix oil filters. I don't think I'll be replacing the CAMS. Rockers and lash adjusters again.

 

[LostWoods]

I need to stop checking this thread when I get notifications I think it's making me lose IQ points.

 

[willys 41]

From what I've read on here and other message boards it seems like the rocker arm bearing failure is probably not caused by the oil filter or anything part of the oil pressure system. Since this type of rocker arm is used in the Maserati 3.0 with twin turbochargers without a history of rocker arm failures.. the elephant in the room seems to be the oil viscosity. The European engines recommend 5w40 synthetic. So I'm done with the 0w20 5w20 synthetic. A two mpg different is not worth the possibility of paying a $2000 repair bill again. I've already ordered a case of 5 quart bottles of valvoline European 5w40 engine oil and a dozen wix oil filters. I don't think I'll be replacing the CAMS. Rockers and lash adjusters again.

I am with you on the 5w40 oil however I do like my Baxter and no more rattle rattle when starting cold.

 

[mkopec]

I am with you on the 5w40 oil however I do like my Baxter and no more rattle rattle when starting cold.

I have had the baxter filter installed at the 900 mile-mark, and noticed a quieter startup right away.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

All I know is, I dry started our old 2017 Grand Cherokee for 285,000 miles while changing the oil every 10k and not a mile sooner, but often 1000-1500 later and it's still fine today.

So it's a pass from me.

 

[WK2JT]

My passenger side intake cam was replaced at the end of last year with about 3k miles on it now. I installed the Baxter a few days ago and it has definitely made a difference on cold start-ups. It no longer sounds like a coffee can full of bolts. However, based on the millions of “healthy” pentastars I don’t believe this fixes the root cause of the cam failures, but it certainly doesn’t hurt things.

I still have the 2000-2200 RPM “rattle”/“tick” while under load. It’s substantially less noticeable just revving while in park at those RPMs. Does anyone know at what RPM the shift from low lift to high lift occurs? I assumed it was at or close to the ~2800 RPM mark where the oil pump kicks into the 2nd stage. The rattle does reduce in amplitude after a mile or two, so wondering if that’s the lash adjusters “pressurizing”, but that seems like a long damn time if so.

 

[willys 41]

My passenger side intake cam was replaced at the end of last year with about 3k miles on it now. I installed the Baxter a few days ago and it has definitely made a difference on cold start-ups. It no longer sounds like a coffee can full of bolts. However, based on the millions of “healthy” pentastars I don’t believe this fixes the root cause of the cam failures, but it certainly doesn’t hurt things.

I still have the 2000-2200 RPM “rattle”/“tick” while under load. It’s substantially less noticeable just revving while in park at those RPMs. Does anyone know at what RPM the shift from low lift to high lift occurs? I assumed it was at or close to the ~2800 RPM mark where the oil pump kicks into the 2nd stage. The rattle does reduce in amplitude after a mile or two, so wondering if that’s the lash adjusters “pressurizing”, but that seems like a long damn time if so.

I also have the Baxter and love it. No more bone chilling rattle rattle on startups.
Both my 3.6 Wranglers have the slit tick more so when not fully warmed up.
I am keeping my fingers crossed that there is not a upcoming problem.
Two other things I have done to try to help out the cam is European 5w-40 oil and RPM Extreme fan controller. Keeping the coolant and oil temps 25 degrees cooler.

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