2025 Gladiator 3.6L Oil Analysis

[NC_Overland]

Now there's a stretch in technology!

Some of the differences in technology are pretty wild. For instance, I’m in the middle of upgrading the brakes. I’m keeping the drums and mechanical brakes, but I’m upgrading from the old pressed steel drums to more modern cast iron. It makes a huge difference in brake fade. Not only is there a big learning curve for me in figuring everything out, but I’m struggling with finding someone to turn the drums and swedge in the wheel studs.

Sponsored

 

[Figmo]

I truly mean this when I say: I'm not sure which I'd rather be. A "blissfully ignorant" kind of person or a "Oil analysis shows the engine's about to blow. Time to pawn it off on some unsuspecting sucker" kind of person.

It's like some final exam for an ethics class.

Remaining blissfully ignorant as I am allows me to be a more ethical human being. Or does it?

As I am ignorant of the problem, not pawning it off on an unsuspecting sucker, does that truly make me "ethical"? Because if I were being honest with myself, if I knew about the problem in advance I probably would sell/trade the vehicle.

Which leads to the extra credit question: is intentionally remaining ignorant just so one can appear ethical even ethical in of itself?

The shit I think about when I can't get to sleep at night.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I truly mean this when I say: I'm not sure which I'd rather be. A "blissfully ignorant" kind of person or a "Oil analysis shows the engine's about to blow. Time to pawn it off on some unsuspecting sucker" kind of person.

It's like some final exam for an ethics class.

I guess I don't look at it that way - I don't sell for reasons like that, and I disclose every flaw I know either to the dealer I'm trading to, or a prospective buyer. If I know of an issue, I let them know. I guess it's how I was raised??
When I sold my last WJ to help pay for my first JT, I told the prospect about possible wire breaks that could impact the door lock, and the rear wiper didn't always work. Everything was working when he looked at it. Of course, he'd owned other WJs so was very familiar with those issues and the fixes and didn't give a rip.

For me, it's more like "how old is the house roof, what's the typical lifespan, and what will it cost when it's time for replacement".
I look for trends and plan accordingly. If the rest of the vehicle was fine, I'd likely opt for repair of a known rather than jumping ship and hoping the grass was greener elsewhere.

 

[trekkar]

On the blackstone report is the unit/location averages pentastar motors with similar mileage? And is the universal average all pentastars or all results across all brands? It be nice if there was a good range for the top section too to show what values you wanted to be in.

 

[Hootbro]

Second oil analysis showed up in my email inbox this morning. This was a run of Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-40 Euro oil for about 3K miles. Oil viscosity was flagged for being slightly out of grade as that was not unexpected given I did use about 0.5 quarts of Valvoline 10W-30 for top off due to the slight extra capacity of using can oil filter and my Baxter Performance adapter. Still was a high ranger 30W grade.

Tick increase in Iron, Aluminum and Cooper from the previous sample but still well within expected universal averages. Silicone has dropped even more which is a good sign most if not all of manufacturing debris has flushed out.

Replaced with 4 quarts of Chevron Delo XSP 5W-40 & 1.5 quarts of Valvoline 10W-30 and a Purolator Tech TL12222 oil filter.

 

[whysoserious]

Second oil analysis showed up in my email inbox this morning. This was a run of Quaker State Full Synthetic 5W-40 Euro oil for about 3K miles. Oil viscosity was flagged for being slightly out of grade as that was not unexpected given I did use about 0.5 quarts of Valvoline 10W-30 for top off due to the slight extra capacity of using can oil filter and my Baxter Performance adapter. Still was a high ranger 30W grade.

Tick increase in Iron, Aluminum and Cooper from the previous sample but still well within expected universal averages. Silicone has dropped even more which is a good sign most if not all of manufacturing debris has flushed out.

Replaced with 4 quarts of Chevron Delo XSP 5W-40 & 1.5 quarts of Valvoline 10W-30 and a Purolator Tech TL12222 oil filter.

Curious as to the mix of 5W-40 and 10W-30? Just topping off with what you have on hand? Also, why 5W instead of 0W?

 

[Hootbro]

Curious as to the mix of 5W-40 and 10W-30? Just topping off with what you have on hand? Also, why 5W instead of 0W?

I use a Baxter Performance oil filter adapter and the filters I use add about 1/2 quart to capacity. When I put in the Quaker State Euro 5W-40, that was a 5 quart jug and the replacement Delo 5W-40 was a 1 gallon jug and remaining makeup oil was the Valvoline 10W-30 I have in 3 gallon box/bag. While I do try to make a reasonable effort to not mix oils, I am not adverse to it.

As to the 5W vs. 0W, I use what I have on hand. I buy my oils on sale and sometime grade selection available is narrow.

May have mentioned it in this thread or maybe elsewhere but I am not putting myself out there as an example to follow or defending what I am doing is ideal. Just sharing the data point for others to make their own decisions.

 

[KevinC]

I can agree on a couple of points.
1. Modern oils and additive packs work far better than older oils.
2. Used oil analysis can find a problem before it happens if you have a baseline going in.

I commend you for running any brand or weight, depending on what you find on sale. I wouldn't do it. Like most everything we buy in this world of brand names, most people become brand loyal.
Levi jeans
Oakley sunglasses
Merrill shoes
H&K pistols
Penzoil/ Wix
Looking at my above past purchase history, I would say I am brand loyal.

 

[Hootbro]

I commend you for running any brand or weight, depending on what you find on sale. I wouldn't do it.

Like I mentioned, not trying to convince anybody to do anything else outside the owners manual or factory recommendations.

That being said, I been doing oil analysis on all my vehicles the last 20+ years on about 26 vehicles so far. Vast majority of the time, I have stuck to factory recommendations but have done more than my fair share of non recommended oil grades and plenty of mixed brands and different grades. Oil analysis have shown it to not be that hyper critical as many would think.

 

[KevinC]

Like I mentioned, not trying to convince anybody to do anything else outside the owners manual or factory recommendations.

Like I said, I commend you.

When I oil shop, it's not just about weight for me, it's also brand. I just can't bring myself to purchase Quaker State. To many bad stories once told around the ol' campfire.

If I was you I wouldn't post all your prior vehicles. There are a few on there that we may strip your man card from you.

 

[Hootbro]

If I was you I wouldn't post all your prior vehicles. There are a few on there that we may strip your man card from you.

They were not all my daily drivers. Have a wife, daughter and couple sons vehicles in there.

Clown cars aside, the reality with the exception of the 02 KIA Sportage that was absolute trash, the other ones were mechanically sound and reliable.

 

[Hootbro]

Third oil analysis came back using Chevron Delo XSP 400 5W-40 for 3,518 miles. Wear metals Iron, Chromium, Aluminum and Copper all dropped. Base Number was a tick low but considered acceptable. Happy to see fuel dilution down from the first sample.

Used a Precision Parts PPG2500 oil filter. Cut open can be see at the link:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...pg2500-premium-guard-cut-open-10-8-25.400528/

Replaced with Castol Edge 0W-40 and a FRAM DRIVE FD10575 oil filter used with a Baxter Performance adapter.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Third oil analysis came back using Chevron Delo XSP 400 5W-40 for 3,518 miles. Wear metals Iron, Chromium, Aluminum and Copper all dropped. Base Number was a tick low but considered acceptable. Happy to see fuel dilution down from the first sample.

Used a Precision Parts PPG2500 oil filter. Cut open can be see at the link:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...pg2500-premium-guard-cut-open-10-8-25.400528/

Replaced with Castol Edge 0W-40 and a FRAM DRIVE FD10575 oil filter used with a Baxter Performance adapter.

Iron down very nicely. Looks like a good number there, IMO

 

[PlayfulBird]

Performance oil filter adapter

What is your experience so far with the baxter adapter? Did you just use the Jt one or the universal? Wouldn't their claims also be confirmed with the oil analysis done?
Just interesting to hear from someone one reads a lot of and often can agree with, rather than the sales pitch.

 

[Hootbro]

What is your experience so far with the baxter adapter? Did you just use the Jt one or the universal?

They do not have a JT specific one. The one I used is the universal one they call out for most Pentastars with the 2014+ style oil filters.

Wouldn't their claims also be confirmed with the oil analysis done?

The only thing I have bought this for was to prevent the startup rattle that "some" to include me
have experienced startup rattle with the stock filter setup from the oil draining out over time back into the sump. Plus the extra 1/2 quart of oil capacity.

I think that is the extent of anything provable this device does. Any other claim or expectation this device reduces engine wear or will prevent the dreaded CAM and valvetrain wear issues is hard to extrapolate and measure.

Couple things I caution people in considering getting a Baxter Performance oil filter adapter is that one needs to be committed to doing all their own oil change as any shop is going to look at it like alien tech and not follow the procedure correctly on evacuating the oil before removing the filter. Other thing is be prepared to remove it before taking it in for any engine related warranty work as it will be a easy thing for them to hang their hat on as the issue even though it would not be.

Sponsored