Factory Trailer Brake Controller releases ...EDIT: STILL WAITING

[jwilson2899]

Was the wire swap just a simple pull, or did it require re-soldering?

Probably release the finger or catch in the connector, remove, reinsert into other holes. Guess based on hundreds of connectors I've build and modified. Most pins and socket press into the shell and can be released - unless these are those really small sealed connectors.

Will be interesting to see how he really did it - I have to tow before April - this really sucks.

I will apologize in advance, I did not take pictures of the pin swap, but it was super easy. There is a white locking clip on the connector, you release it from both sides and pop it out. Once that is out, you can use a small straight screwdriver, pick, or even a thin pocket knife to push the tab that hold the pin out of the way and pull the pin out. Removed both the blue and black wires, and put them back in the opposite cavities and push to snap in. Then take the white locking clip and snap it back in, and you're done.

I'm kind of glad I didn't hold out for the factory controller now and reused my Redarc. I have to go pickup my new trailer in a couple weeks and it would have bene something I just had to squeeze in installing between now and then. I've posted pictures before of my Redarc setup, and @KVJ was a good resource too if anyone wants to do the knob in place of the 12v outlet like we did and the factory one is supposed to be. I'll be glad to help/answer questions if I you decide to go this route.

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[ShadowsPapa]

I will apologize in advance, I did not take pictures of the pin swap, but it was super easy. There is a white locking clip on the connector, you release it from both sides and pop it out. Once that is out, you can use a small straight screwdriver, pick, or even a thin pocket knife to push the tab that hold the pin out of the way and pull the pin out. Removed both the blue and black wires, and put them back in the opposite cavities and push to snap in. Then take the white locking clip and snap it back in, and you're done.

I'm kind of glad I didn't hold out for the factory controller now and reused my Redarc. I have to go pickup my new trailer in a couple weeks and it would have bene something I just had to squeeze in installing between now and then. I've posted pictures before of my Redarc setup, and @KVJ was a good resource too if anyone wants to do the knob in place of the 12v outlet like we did and the factory one is supposed to be. I'll be glad to help/answer questions if I you decide to go this route.

That would be my choice - put where the factory one would go. I've only got a couple of things that would use a "12 volt outlet" - it's an emergency "flash light" of sort - and I can always rig that up another way, or get something else.
With all the USB ports I don't even use the adapter with this or my wife's GC these days. They sit in a drawer.

 

[eaglerugby04]

That would be my choice - put where the factory one would go. I've only got a couple of things that would use a "12 volt outlet" - it's an emergency "flash light" of sort - and I can always rig that up another way, or get something else.
With all the USB ports I don't even use the adapter with this or my wife's GC these days. They sit in a drawer.

I am going to be staring at that dashboard for a while now. I am really torn on where to set it up. I like the idea of the factory setup. But I fear the car trip where I can't keep a nintendo switch powered up.

I will apologize in advance, I did not take pictures of the pin swap, but it was super easy. There is a white locking clip on the connector, you release it from both sides and pop it out. Once that is out, you can use a small straight screwdriver, pick, or even a thin pocket knife to push the tab that hold the pin out of the way and pull the pin out. Removed both the blue and black wires, and put them back in the opposite cavities and push to snap in. Then take the white locking clip and snap it back in, and you're done.

I'm kind of glad I didn't hold out for the factory controller now and reused my Redarc. I have to go pickup my new trailer in a couple weeks and it would have bene something I just had to squeeze in installing between now and then. I've posted pictures before of my Redarc setup, and @KVJ was a good resource too if anyone wants to do the knob in place of the 12v outlet like we did and the factory one is supposed to be. I'll be glad to help/answer questions if I you decide to go this route.

How much wire is on the back of the factory outlet? Might want to reroute it somewhere else in the truck

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I am going to be staring at that dashboard for a while now. I am really torn on where to set it up. I like the idea of the factory setup. But I fear the car trip where I can't keep a nintendo switch powered up.


How much wire is on the back of the factory outlet? Might want to reroute it somewhere else in the truck

Don't know the length, but if like most others - a hot and a ground. You could extend them two ways - plug-in extensions that plugged into the existing wire and gave extra length, or cut, splice and put the factor connectors back on the other end.

 

[jwilson2899]

I am going to be staring at that dashboard for a while now. I am really torn on where to set it up. I like the idea of the factory setup. But I fear the car trip where I can't keep a nintendo switch powered up.


How much wire is on the back of the factory outlet? Might want to reroute it somewhere else in the truck

I'm with @ShadowsPapa in that I never use the 12V outlet for anything these days, so losing it wasn't a big deal. As for the amount of wire, it probably would require lengthening it to move it too far. There was a enough to easily pull the dash out and unplug it, but there wasn't tons past that. If you didn't want to hack up the factory wiring, you could probably use the Quadratec 12V tap they make sinc eit goes in-between the outlet and dash harness, and cut/extend the wires on it to relocate it.

I think we talked about the Switch before, but my oldest has a brick for his he plugs into the 110 outlet on the back of the console, so it hasn't been a problem. You now have me wondering if I could make an extension harness and relocate the 12V outlet to the back of the console for the rear seat passengers. Probably not something high up my priority list. I still haven't tried plugging his Switch into the UBS-C outlets on the back of the console to see if they put out enough power to keep up.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm with @ShadowsPapa in that I never use the 12V outlet for anything these days, so losing it wasn't a big deal. As for the amount of wire, it probably would require lengthening it to move it too far. There was a enough to easily pull the dash out and unplug it, but there wasn't tons past that. If you didn't want to hack up the factory wiring, you could probably use the Quadratec 12V tap they make sinc eit goes in-between the outlet and dash harness, and cut/extend the wires on it to relocate it.

I think we talked about the Switch before, but my oldest has a brick for his he plugs into the 110 outlet on the back of the console, so it hasn't been a problem. You now have me wondering if I could make an extension harness and relocate the 12V outlet to the back of the console for the rear seat passengers. Probably not something high up my priority list. I still haven't tried plugging his Switch into the UBS-C outlets on the back of the console to see if they put out enough power to keep up.

I can tell this much about the JT USB - they are not "fast charge" connections. Takes forever to charge my LG stuff where if I use LG's charger in 110 it takes only about 1/3 the time to charge up. Took forever for the JT's usb to get my phone from 25 to 38% the other day. At home it would have been fully charged.

 

[PyrPatriot]

I can tell this much about the JT USB - they are not "fast charge" connections. Takes forever to charge my LG stuff where if I use LG's charger in 110 it takes only about 1/3 the time to charge up. Took forever for the JT's usb to get my phone from 25 to 38% the other day. At home it would have been fully charged.

The USB charger charges my iPhone faster than any charger I put in a wall socket or even my computers "quick charge" usb port.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The USB charger charges my iPhone faster than any charger I put in a wall socket or even my computers "quick charge" usb port.

Which port are you plugging into? The charge only, or one of the front ones? Or - with yours do you only have the front USB?
Apple devices charge differently - I have one of those combo outlets at home and there's a switch - one way for Apple, the other way for "all others".
LG has a quick charger comes with their stuff the last couple of years or so and it blows the JT ports away in speed.
But that's ok - I can always have an LG charger in the truck and just plug it into the 110 outlet, or be patient, or use my brick to charge the phone and use the truck to charge the brick. No worries, just an observation about how slow it was.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Which port are you plugging into? The charge only, or one of the front ones? Or - with yours do you only have the front USB?
Apple devices charge differently - I have one of those combo outlets at home and there's a switch - one way for Apple, the other way for "all others".
LG has a quick charger comes with their stuff the last couple of years or so and it blows the JT ports away in speed.
But that's ok - I can always have an LG charger in the truck and just plug it into the 110 outlet, or be patient, or use my brick to charge the phone and use the truck to charge the brick. No worries, just an observation about how slow it was.

Both the front on and the one inside the center console charge my iPhone quite quickly.

 

[KVJ]

I pulled the factory outlet over behind the dash on the passenger side of the JT. You just have to remove the glove box and access the area. I then plugged my dash cam into it. If you wanted to you can splice it from there to anywhere in the truck. There is just enough length to get it to the glove box.
It would behoove Redarc to to have somebody video this entire install and post on youtube. The install on etrailer is amateurish. I suggest we have Waxman go with the Redarc and do a video for the sake of towing members of this forum. In fact he should offer Redarc his service and they could compensate him after all the Gladiator is available in Australia.
Now the unit mount was good in the etrailer video but I mounted mine down on the firewall.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Both the front on and the one inside the center console charge my iPhone quite quickly.

Interesting. I don't use the front ones because the dumb thing wants to take control of the phone and so stuff I won't want it to do. In fact my wife tried to plug it in and hit the left rear port instead of the right and for 15 minutes it kept popping up errors left and right about not recognizing the device which was BS because I set it up weeks ago to try the phone connected to the uconnect stuff directly. I didn't like it, it was intrusive. So I opted to use the rear charge only port - but Barbara was leaning backwards over the console trying to plug the cable in and hit the port that isn't charge only and I had to stop the truck, get out, move and it reset stuff because of all the errors.
Not recognizing the device..... there was no pushing ok or anything to make it go away. Only option was totally unplugging the phone from those ports.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Interesting. I don't use the front ones because the dumb thing wants to take control of the phone and so stuff I won't want it to do. In fact my wife tried to plug it in and hit the left rear port instead of the right and for 15 minutes it kept popping up errors left and right about not recognizing the device which was BS because I set it up weeks ago to try the phone connected to the uconnect stuff directly. I didn't like it, it was intrusive. So I opted to use the rear charge only port - but Barbara was leaning backwards over the console trying to plug the cable in and hit the port that isn't charge only and I had to stop the truck, get out, move and it reset stuff because of all the errors.
Not recognizing the device..... there was no pushing ok or anything to make it go away. Only option was totally unplugging the phone from those ports.

How odd. Maybe a feature with the 8.4 Uconnect?

 

[PsyRN]

guess there's no rush now. guess I can work on improving my credit score and save a few more duckets for mods.

 

[PyrPatriot]

Wonder if we can get a class action lawsuit going against FCA for false advertising

https://www.jeep.com/gladiator/utility.html
"The available integrated Trailer Brake controller provides adjustable braking power to your trailer’s electric brakes, if equipped, so you can slow down and stop with confidence."

 

[Mr._Bill]

Wonder if we can get a class action lawsuit going against FCA for false advertising

https://www.jeep.com/gladiator/utility.html
"The available integrated Trailer Brake controller provides adjustable braking power to your trailer’s electric brakes, if equipped, so you can slow down and stop with confidence."

What remedies would you request from the court?
What would we, those waiting for the controller, get from such a lawsuit?
Usually, the only winners in a class-action suit are the lawyers.
Mopar will have a controller available long before a judge would even see the case.

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