Anybody carry a compressor in their JT?

[Gvsukids]

Some had mentioned getting a trailer harness end and powering a compressor through the 12 volts that goes to the big round trailer connector. No need to open the hood, no clips to corrode and eventually over the years, they often do.
I don't recall how that is fused, the load carrying capability, but it's likely far more than any 12v outlet inside the truck. If nothing else that trailer connector is closer to the rear tires than the battery is (unless like at least one member, you have an added battery sitting back there)

What do you attach the clips to on the trailer connector?

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[mazeppa]

30 amps is quite a bit of oomph.
So that wire going back there has to be 10 gauge. Pretty beefy.
I'd not try to run anything over about 25 because the starting draw would be more if it's a motor, etc. but still, that's quite a good load.
Thanks - now I have something to keep in mind as I accessorize

I never thought about using a trailer plug as a power supply cable until reading through this thread, you can always learn from others ideas/mods. Now I going to get a trailer side 7-blade plug to make a 12V power supply pigtail.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

What do you attach the clips to on the trailer connector?

I guess everyone missed what I was suggesting? Did I not describe my thinking? Don't use clips - cut the danged clips off, send them to me for my plating racks. I go through quite a few clips because the acids eventually eat them....... Or leave them on and in PARALLEL, connect the item shown in the link below. But if you do that you must insulate the clips or they could short together - I say - cut 'em off.

Buy a trailer plug, the round one like on the front of your travel trailer/camper, or flatbed car hauler.
Put it on the wires from the compressor - the ones you cut the clips off.

There - now when you need to air up, grab the compressor, carry it to the back of the truck, lift the cover of the truck's trailer jack, and plug the compressor in using the trailer connector plug I said to put on the compressor.

Since folks don't realize you can buy these even at walmart and you can connect them to any accessory that runs on 12 volts *as long as it's under 30 amps* here's what I mean -
Put this on the compressor, skip the clips ->

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58140-7-Way-Blade-Connector/dp/B001EOWPOA

 

[Sportsbiz]

I guess everyone missed what I was suggesting? Did I not describe my thinking? Don't use clips - cut the danged clips off, send them to me for my plating racks. I go through quite a few clips because the acids eventually eat them....... Or leave them on and in PARALLEL, connect the item shown in the link below. But if you do that you must insulate the clips or they could short together - I say - cut 'em off.

Buy a trailer plug, the round one like on the front of your travel trailer/camper, or flatbed car hauler.
Put it on the wires from the compressor - the ones you cut the clips off.

There - now when you need to air up, grab the compressor, carry it to the back of the truck, lift the cover of the truck's trailer jack, and plug the compressor in using the trailer connector plug I said to put on the compressor.

Since folks don't realize you can buy these even at walmart and you can connect them to any accessory that runs on 12 volts *as long as it's under 30 amps* here's what I mean -
Put this on the compressor, skip the clips ->

https://www.amazon.com/CURT-58140-7-Way-Blade-Connector/dp/B001EOWPOA

My mind is blown right now. Gamechanger.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Basically, if it will run from the puny amperage of a 12v outlet in the cabin, it will run from the trailer connector.
The wire to the back should be a minimum of 10 gauge - I bet the wire that supplies that inside 12v outlet may be 16 gauge.
I don't recommend seeing how far you can load that thing up - and luckily it is fused nicely, but for convenience, especially since I moved my 12v outlet so I could put the MOPAR brake controller in that spot - this will be my solution.
Keep in mind, the purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring, not your device you plug into it.

 

[pjohnston]

I have the Viair 88P. Fit under the seat of my JKUR Hard Rock and now fits behind the seat of the JT. And I can grab and throw it in which ever Jeep I am driving. Has done everything I have asked.

Paul

 

[Rockabillyroy]

I did something similar, but I kept the alligator clips. I used some powerpole connectors so I could choose between the alligator clips or my quick connect. That way, if I wanted to use the compressor for my wife's tires, I did have to pull my jeep around.

https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Powerpole-Connectors-Pair-Genuine/dp/B005P9CATU

 

[Overland-2021]

Sure do.
I mounted a VIAIR 48042 200psi compressor on a Vixen horns 5gal tank. Cost me about $350 in parts but works fantastic. Compressor is 12v/22Amp and needs a direct battery connection. Has a 100% duty cycle at 100psi/72°F. Not quite finished and a bit of an overkill for my needs but is not heavy. Fits on the floor behind the seat.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Those aren't compression fittings, are they?
I watched a soft copper line explode in a shop once........I heard a sound and looked just in time to see it rip open........
and have seen the compression fittings blow out.
Under 100psi probably ok.

 

[andrew8404]

The single cylinder ARB is 30% more and not portable, at least at the pricing I could find. Throw in the cost of a mounting plate and the price diverges even more, let alone duplicating for another Jeep. The Smittybilt compressor airs up all four tires at once just fine, never gets to thermal overload even for two Jeeps worth of air. You pays your money, you takes your chances.

You don't need a mounting plate for the ARB. Theres already one built into the engine bay that's free. I bought mine for 250 on Amazon a few months ago. My neighbor has the smittybuilt one too. It does the job but a mounted one is so much more convenient.

 

[MrJeep]

Another vote for Viair 440p. After months researching on Jeep forums it kept coming back to this one. Couldn't be happier, airs up 33s in no time. I mounted on under the hood of my TJ to save space.

 

[ilmostro]

Dual ARB mounted under the passenger seat with the Innovative AT Products kit.

 

[SwampNut]

I have an onboard 200 PSI Viair system with tank, and a Viair 88p in a bag in the bed. I also carry a lift bag for recovery or tire changes, which I air up with the onboard instead of the exhaust.

 

[tysongladiator]

I keep one of these under the back seat for all my inflation needs...

20V MAX* Corded/Cordless Air Inflator - DCC020IB | DEWALT

Absolutely love it, but I also always have a couple 20v/60v Flexvolt batteries with me too in my tool bag. Just screw on to tire valve, set desired pressure (up or down, can deflate as well) and let it do it's thing.

I have the Ryobi equivalent and it works great also.

 

[Deleted member 28696]

I'm sure a lot of you guys do, I'm looking at carrying a small 100 PSI pancake compressor after my tonneau cover is on. I had one laying around the garage, and after using teflon tape on all of the threading, cleaning it up a bit, I fired it up and it seems to be good. I figured I could keep it in the back, it will have a tire inflator attached to it with an analog gauge built into it so I don't have to worry about batteries to see the tire pressure on a digital readout. Any issues with using the inverter for this? I could always go plan B which would be a battery operated tire inflater, but if the inverter works, I think this would be a better solution.

I tried to run a vacuum to vac out my truck using the 115v bed plug with the 400w inverter & it wouldn’t power it. A lamp is no problem but anything with a motor load maybe an issue. I did hear it would power up a Traeger grill. I’m thinking about installing an onboard air system to power an air horn & air up the tires.

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