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35s or 37s?

Renegade

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If your already considering 37's go that route. From my past experience if you settle for 35's for one reason or another you will end up with 37's not too long after.
Everyone's different but I've made that mistake on a few Wranglers, and I always ended up with the tire size I initially wanted.
So you’re saying I should go straight for the BFG KM3 39’s? Got it- thanks!;)
 

TTEChris

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So you’re saying I should go straight for the BFG KM3 39’s? Got it- thanks!;)
I probably will, but that's just me :beer:. I've been eyeballing those exact tires....

I've been daily driving/wheeling my JL on 40's & beadlocks since shortly after I got it(I started out with 37's, but of course ended up with 40's where I wanted to be in the first place :headbang:) I am however easy on the throttle offroad, and fully intend to upgrade when I have the extra toy money or happen to break something. The JL D44's are much heavier duty than the JK D44's. On my 4 JK's I went to 37's, but always installed a set of axle axle sleeves, welded on a set of C-Gussets and upgraded the balljoints when it was that time. I have yet to break anything axle related on my Wranglers, but maybe I'm just not wheeling hard enough.

The only thing that may stop me on the Gladiator is if I decide to use it for towing. At that point I can see it getting really expensive to do it safely.
 

SleepyJeep

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I went 35’s for these reasons
1. Mopar recommends the 35 with their 2 inch lift
2. My JT came with 4.10 gears and I don’t feel those are adequate for 37’s
3. Personally I like the look of the 35 with the minimal lift over the 37
4. I tow with mine .
5. From past experiences with friends I’ve seen 37’s tear a front end apart. Now we actually use our jeeps hunting , trails etc.

Had 35’s on my last 4 jeeps . Buddies had 37’s and I think they look cool but not for me.

Now if I changed gears , trusssed my housings , 4 inch lift then oh yeah I’m going 37’s.
This above is the best reply for this especially the last line about changing the gears/housing/etc, and my reasons to stay with 35s - I plan to get the KM3...
 

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I am in the 35 with 2" lift group.

I am one to carry two spare tires so purchasing 6 - 35's is more than double what I would have to pay to take your tires off your hands:clap:
Not being sarcastic but I am just curious - what's your rationale behind carrying two spares? Besides the obvious reason that you can have two tire blowouts... by that logic isn't it possible to have four tire blowouts? :giggle:
 
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In general, how much height gain can one expect going from 33’s to 35’s and 35’s to 37’s? I would like to eventually add a 2” lift and either 35’s or possibly 37’s, but would still like to park inside the garage.
 

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In general, how much height gain can one expect going from 33’s to 35’s and 35’s to 37’s? I would like to eventually add a 2” lift and either 35’s or possibly 37’s, but would still like to park inside the garage.
Every tire is slightly different, but if you take half the difference in size it will give you an approximation of height gained. For example 33-35 is a 2" larger diameter, but height gained is 1/2 that at 1"(Radius). 33-37 would should technically gain 2" overall height.
 

G8R

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Not being sarcastic but I am just curious - what's your rationale behind carrying two spares? Besides the obvious reason that you can have two tire blowouts... by that logic isn't it possible to have four tire blowouts? :giggle:
I have been on hunting trips where I had a flat (blown sidewall so I could not repair). With only one spare but 6 days of rough country ahead I was unwilling to risk staying out. Without a spare that was not safe in my estimation (I am usually solo). Thus I had to come out of the mountains and wasted 2 full days getting a replacement tire. My time in the mountains is limited so I take steps to enable me to stay out longer. 2 spares has come in handy twice since that sidewall failure (one trip I had one flat and the other I had 2 flats but was able stay out the entire time). The need for 4 spares is excessive (most of the time 2 is excessive). One time in my life my family had 5 flats between Hyder Alaska and some town I forget the name of in Canada (this was in the 70s when I was a teen). That was a nightmare as my sisters, mom, and I had to sit at the Blazer for multiple hours multiple times waiting for my dad to get back after hitch hiking with two tires to repair.
 

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I have been on hunting trips where I had a flat (blown sidewall so I could not repair). With only one spare but 6 days of rough country ahead I was unwilling to risk staying out. Without a spare that was not safe in my estimation (I am usually solo). Thus I had to come out of the mountains and wasted 2 full days getting a replacement tire. My time in the mountains is limited so I take steps to enable me to stay out longer. 2 spares has come in handy twice since that sidewall failure (one trip I had one flat and the other I had 2 flats but was able stay out the entire time). The need for 4 spares is excessive (most of the time 2 is excessive). One time in my life my family had 5 flats between Hyder Alaska and some town I forget the name of in Canada (this was in the 70s when I was a teen). That was a nightmare as my sisters, mom, and I had to sit at the Blazer for multiple hours multiple times waiting for my dad to get back after hitch hiking with two tires to repair.
Interesting, that must be some real wild country. I would think these days the tech to fix flats and sidewalls has also improved a lot although I have not researched it in a long time now - just speculating. Where do you put the second spare? In the bed or do you build a rack on top of the truck?
 

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Interesting, that must be some real wild country. I would think these days the tech to fix flats and sidewalls has also improved a lot although I have not researched it in a long time now - just speculating. Where do you put the second spare? In the bed or do you build a rack on top of the truck?
As shown in my avatar I have a 5x8 trailer. I put the 2nd spare in that. Leave it at base camp with tire. Sometimes when I know I am going to be driving away from base for an extended drive or over nighter I will just toss the second spare in the back of the truck. I also tied it on top of my shell (once-when I stupidly did not take the trailer).

I have a plug kit so I can fix a typical puncture. But I know of no way to repair a 4" side wall gash. Some mountains in UT, CO, ID, NV, and WY are pretty rough and have sharp rocks but it was actually a downed tree that got my side wall. These were all with 35 Toyo Mudders too. I have spent over 40 years traveling these mountains and have really only had half a dozen flats. But some of them have significantly impacted my plans and eliminated very valuable days in a limited hunting season. When I have an elk hunt that only lasts 5 days total I am unwilling to let a flat eliminate 1 or 2 days from that. That is the reason I carry 2.
 

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WildJD

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Hopefully picking up a rubicon form Travis in NC in the next 2-3 weeks. Planning to add 2 inch lift. Can’t decide on 35s or 37s but leaning 37. This is my first Jeep so not a lot of 4x4 experience. Thoughts?
If you’re new to Jeeps, and haven’t seen the stock Falken Wildpeak AT 33’s in person... hold off on buying new tires at all... the FWAT 33’s look like 35’s! (Seriously, no exaggeration!) ;{
 

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Everyone’s talking tires but what about rims, does the stock rim accommodate a 35?
I’m not finding any info on that
 

pparks72

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IMO 315/70R17 is the perfect combo. Jeep recommends additional equipment when installing 37’s. If you’re not wheeling weekly and it’s your daily driver I’d stick with 35’s. 37’s unequivocally put a great strain on the drive tran components. Premature wear is a matter of when not if. 37’s also require more upkeep. 0.02

For reference:

BFG KO2 315/70R17: actual diameter is 34.4 @ 64.5lbs each

BFG KO2 35x12.50R17: actual diameter is 34.5 @ 66.3lbs each

BFG KO2 37x12.50R17: actual diameter is 36.5 @ 69.5lbs each

I did the 315/70R17 option. It looks great without a lift or changing the engineered geometry of the drive tran. No bro dozer look. It’s only .1 smaller than a 35x12.50R17 and weighs a little less. Maybe I’m cautious but I daily drive and do moderate wheeling. I will get everywhere anyone else is running on a trail. Driver input is everything. 37’s are out of the question for me, not worth the extra wear and tear or $$. Full disclosure, I may have opened a controversial can of worms.:idea:

021A7CBF-ABDE-4C5C-AA88-02A6AA4E9019.jpeg


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Several websites list the Rim Range 8-11 inches for these tires. Have you noticed any issues using stock 7.5 inch wheels?
 

J&L in Maui

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I went with the 35's for the reasons most above me have posted.

I actually opted to go with the BFG KO2 in 317/70r17, which as noted above is a touch (.1in) smaller than their 35x12.50r17. It is a bit wider, though. Most importantly, it's a C load rating tire, which I run on my full size truck and have been very happy with. I've got about 1000mi on them now, with a small level in front (sport s w/ max tow) and am thrilled with the way they drive.

I can't deny that 37's look killer, but I haven't yet looked at my truck and wished I had went bigger than 35's, especially knowing that the 35's will do what I need without unnecessary adding wear and tear.
Did you go with a lift or stock? How do the tires fit? Any rub if stock? I ask because have a sport s in order and am thinking 35s. Have 33x12.5 on my YJ, no lift, and get a lil rub at max turn both sides.
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