analysis paralysis - 35s or 37s

[Gren71]

Imo id go smaller lift and 35’s based on what youre saying. I think the 3.5” of lift will make the 35’s look too small.

do an AEV 2” spacer lift. It will ride really good, use a D load range 35” and itll look good and ride great. A 3.5” lift is going to make you want to fill the gap I think.

or the iron rock off road 2in spacer lift kit

but I completely agree

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[bring44]

My Gator JTR has 35" Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, Clayton Off-Road 2.5'' Overland Plus system (LCAs, UCAs, Track bars, etc.) and 1.75" wheel spacers for your reference. I plan on trussing and regearing before (if) going to 37" in the future, but I think the truck looks great as is! "Wheeling" these tires in muddy conditions in Uwharrie was no problem @ 20psi...for me at least.

 

[KurtP]

or the iron rock off road 2in spacer lift kit

but I completely agree

i wouldnt, personally. Id prefer not to have aluminum as the spring spacer since its more likely to transmit nvh through the chassis. The iron rock also doesnt seem to include bump stop spacers or extended sway bar links. Aev also has the procal to convert tire diameter in the computer.

aev spacer kit with drop brackets is going to give the best ride and control. But to your point, yea, absolutely multiple ways to get it done.

$.02

 

[KurtP]

My Gator JTR has 35" Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, Clayton Off-Road 2.5'' Overland Plus system (LCAs, UCAs, Track bars, etc.) and 1.75" wheel spacers for your reference. I plan on trussing and regearing before (if) going to 37" in the future, but I think the truck looks great as is! "Wheeling" these tires in muddy conditions in Uwharrie was no problem @ 20psi...for me at least.

that front looks a lot higher than 2.5. Maybe its just the pic but i would ha e guessed 3.5+

 

[bring44]

that front looks a lot higher than 2.5. Maybe its just the pic but i would ha e guessed 3.5+

Clayton kits run tall... it's more around 3.5" for the advertised 2.5"

 

[KurtP]

Clayton kits run tall... it's more around 3.5" for the advertised 2.5"

gotcha that makes sense. Aev does the same. Their version, and id guess @Clayton Off Road is that it’s “2.5 at expedition weight” type deal.

that clayton offroad stuff is really really nice.

 

[jtimbrook]

What does your budget look like? I learned my lesson with my JKU and the reality behind actually running 37’s over the long term. Mind you I wheeled it pretty hard but it was also my daily driver. Re-gearing is only the beginning of what you’ll need to do over the long term use especially if you’re going to wheel it often (2-3x month). For my JT I’m running a set of 35” Cooper M/T’s on a set of DX4 wheels, it’s not the lightest set up but it definitely is not a heavy pig. My avg mpg is around 16-17 combined and that’s partly because I’m a heavy footed driver and I’ve got 4.10’s which offsets each other.

 

[hjdca]

Hey all. First, thanks for all the great info you all provide here. But, I'm having a heck of a time trying to make a decision on a wheel size for my build and I'm humbly asking for some advice. It's probably important to first call out that South Dakota doesn't give me much for intense climbing opportunities so my use is pretty limited to everyday driving and some moderate offroading. I currently have a stock Overland and I'll be installing a RC 3.5" lift and I'm leaning towards 17x9 -12 wheels. I see good reviews on the Nitto Trail Grabber wheels but I absolutely cannot determine if 35x12.5 or 37x12.5 is the better choice. Any recommendations? Do I need to be concerned with gearing, tire clearance, ride quality, etc? Any input from those of you on the forum would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

MC

I had the same problem. I ordered the Clayton 3.5 Overland Plus kit on Black Friday for my manual JTR. BTW, my Falcon SP2 3.3 adjustable shocks just shipped, so, shipping started.
I am going with 37s, but, I am going as light as possible to try to alleviate the negatives of 37s -- and I am re-gearing for sure, probably 5:13s. Compromise is the key here, ie. wheels - Generally, 17x8.5 is lighter than 17x9 or 17x9.5. Black Rhino has some light 17x9.5 (Rotary Forged, approx. 28-30 lbs).

1. Light rims - I chose the Method 703, 17x8.5 (27.6 lbs) because of the new "bead grip technology". I really want to try that, but, if you do not care about airing down to 10 lbs, then, you can go even 3.8 lbs lighter with the Method 313 at 23.8 lbs.
2. Light tires - I chose the Wrangler Kevlar MTRs in 37x12.5x17 - 73 lbs.

For 37s, If you can keep your weight for each wheel/tire combo at around 100 lbs, then, you are not running much more weight than the heavier 35" combos. This will help wear, tear and acceleration. However, you will still need gears.

 

[LordEnzo]

My research has been that unless u have 4.10 gears min, stay with 35. This is sea level to about 1500' above. After that height, a research may be necessary. Looks wise, 35 look better up to 2.5 actual lift. Taller in my opinion needs 37, or larger. I liked how my sport s max tow looked stock height with 37 on oe wheel driving around town, impractical offroad. That was for a week until I put on 3.5 rc spacer lift with drop brackets. Ride is great, looks perfect, able to offroad with no issues (light plastic triming/removal necessary). I'm at sea level/FL. Tires are milestar pats 37x12.5x17

 

[Gren71]

i wouldnt, personally. Id prefer not to have aluminum as the spring spacer since its more likely to transmit nvh through the chassis. The iron rock also doesnt seem to include bump stop spacers or extended sway bar links. Aev also has the procal to convert tire diameter in the computer.

aev spacer kit with drop brackets is going to give the best ride and control. But to your point, yea, absolutely multiple ways to get it done.

$.02

What’s funny is i chose the metal spacers because they wont wear as much under load and are better for towing (from what im told) ive been beyond surprised by this kit. No change in NVH over the oem suspension.

I do with they came with bump stop extensions, but that’s nothing a couple hockey pucks didnt solve!

 

[KurtP]

What’s funny is i chose the metal spacers because they wont wear as much under load and are better for towing (from what im told) ive been beyond surprised by this kit. No change in NVH over the oem suspension.

I do with they came with bump stop extensions, but that’s nothing a couple hockey pucks didnt solve!

hahahahaha. Pics of hockey pucks!!!

 

[RiverMtnBeach]

I’m running 35s with 4:10 gears and IMO it’s just about right. Hums along happily with decent mpg’s in 8th at about 65-70mph, but still low enough in 1st-3rd to get a 5,500 lb TT rolling up an on-ramp.
The stock 32s made the gears feel really short, so just that 3” makes a big difference. With overland gearing, you’ll definitely need to re-gear for 37s, and maybe even 35s if you tow.
Also make sure to get the lowest load rating available. These trucks aren’t heavy enough to run more than load D without feeling every crack in the pavement.

 

[shrinkhead]

depends on how you plan to use it probably. I have 35x12.5 Nittos now with the 2-inch mopar lift on 17x9 Fuels at 30 PSI for daily driving. fuel economy tanked from 16.5 to 13.5 MPG but otherwise rides better. I would only go 37s if I would think I need the added clearance or just go up to 40s then but that's a bigger project.

 

[PDiddy]

I went with 35s for the practical reasons. Mine are Cooper Evolution MTs. They only weigh 64lbs. Which is really light for a 35. They feel the same as my stock Falken 33s. Plus I’m running them on my stock wheels.

 

[brerran]

35” x 11” Toyo AT3. Leveled the front of my sport model a touch with rubicon springs and a .5inch spacer. Hated the 3.71 with a manual transmission so installed 4.88.

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