anyone use Liqui Moly 5w30 in their 6?

[gentlejax]

interesting test with the usual oils and the liqui moly.

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[Hootbro]

wrong.
its just the opposite. the jeep is a new vehicle to me and the motor I have not used. the Liqui moly luricants have a good rep but I have never run the oil.

asked if anyone used it in case they did and had bad results or know of any negatives for using it. not looking for cheerleaders for the brand. I dont work for them or sell it. thats just stupid.

people discussing their opinions on every other oil and adding nothing about the particular oil is not answering the question. unless you have used it there is no reason to answer. im not looking for recomendations on oil. or a class on oil. I was looking for anyone with real world usage of the oil in their Jeep.

if I wanted to know more about the engineering of the oil id be on btog or lakespeedjr. that may or may not let me know if this oil causing sludge or any other issue.

if i was miffed about anything it was your comment about me "choosing an oil because it was made in Germany" . which was also an asumption by you.

Enjoy your Liqui Moly.

 

[gentlejax]

Enjoy your Liqui Moly.

I posted a video with actual data .

its ok if you stop talking to me.

 

[JTGuy]

I use Torco everywhere I can because it's hard to find and costs more and it makes me feel good. Walmart oil would probably work just as good.

 

[ChrisNLA]

Whew, $53 for five quarts. That'll make your eyes water.

Running Pennzoil Platinum here. Cause wallet.

I think the oil would have to come with a written guarantee that my cams would not eat themselves, and a warranty to cover them if they did, for me to spend just about double on oil.

But if someone finds value in it, you won't hear me try to sway ya.

Just to add to the useless posts on the matter at hand.

 

[gentlejax]

Whew, $53 for five quarts. That'll make your eyes water.

Running Pennzoil Platinum here. Cause wallet.

I think the oil would have to come with a written guarantee that my cams would not eat themselves, and a warranty to cover them if they did, for me to spend just about double on oil.

But if someone finds value in it, you won't hear me try to sway ya.

Just to add to the useless posts on the matter at hand.

if you watched the video Penzoil Plat is about middle of the test in all the test so its pretty solid if you change your oil regularly. couple of the unusual oils did better in one test but not in others. its very informative video. but any of them will work if changing regularly. it wasnt about liquid moly being the one to use or not use. ive never used it. been a Penzoil plat user for serveral years.


I see you are in N La also. me too.

 

[Hootbro]

I posted a video with actual data .

its ok if you stop talking to me.

You started a oil thread. They are never black and white discussions or rarely a consensus.

 

[gentlejax]

You started a oil thread. They are never black and white discussions or rarely a consensus.

sure was. and it was fine until you had insinuate I was buying oil based on being made in Germany. like I was a teenager and you had to sit me down and do some "splaining" . it wasnt necessary . im new here, not new to cars or life. then you said i didnt like people not agreeing which it never was about that either.

 

[Stormtroopin]

I use the 5/30, the green dye is good for tracking down oil leaks. We use it for a lot of vehicles at our shop and I started using it in my jeep for the last 5 oil changes.

 

[gentlejax]

I use the 5/30, the green dye is good for tracking down oil leaks. We use it for a lot of vehicles at our shop and I started using it in my jeep for the last 5 oil changes.

did you hear any difference in the engine? was it any smoother or noisier ? any changes at all ? what were you using before that ?

if I recall it had scored top on wear parts per million but not good on shear test . in the video I posted by oil geek .

the reason I asked is because I had used liquid moly before to quiet a ls1 I had and it worked so i thought maybe using the oil and not adding on top of oil that wasnt formulated for the addition.

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

(TL:DR at bottom)

As an engine builder (full disclosure, I specialize in Subaru builds and have been getting more into small engines like dirt bikes), I've tested a few brands of oil over a decade and have done some BlackStone testing.

In my time I've learned:

- Unless you change the oil every 3k miles and it's a BEATER, stay away from SuperTech. PERIOD.
- If you daily your vehicle, and do your maintenance on time or early, Penzoil Platinum is not only a quality TRUE synthetic, but many OEMs use their products with their own brand label on top. Mopar uses Penzoil Platinum with a Mopar label, this is coming straight out of the technicians and oil suppliers mouths. I also worked in many shops and dealt with oil suppliers directly (I'm a nerd an love learning).
- If you have some extra money and don't mind spending it on peace of mind, use Amsoil. I use it in my rally build, and change it every 3k miles. The Blackstone tests show I COULD go 10k miles on it, but my race engine has more value than the extra OCI they suggest I COULD skip. $5k for an engine is more than $50-70 for Amsoil and an OEM filter.
- Lucas Oil: had a GREAT reputation for decades! Until recently, they've been having issues in the PW (2 stroke dirtbikes) world and 2 strokes in general lately. Never really an issue in the past, but they're blowing up small engines lately. THIS info comes from a friend who takes his kid to MX races on their PW and others there have been reporting the same thing.
-- Their 4 stroke oil doesn't seem to have these reports, that I'm aware of. But I HAVE heard of some horror stories about Lucas Oils products in the past. For the price, I just rather use Amsoil or Penzoil.
- If you don't care about your daily, or it's older than 2010, take your chances on Mobile1 sythetics. They stopped using true synthetics as the base about a decade ago, and at the time was all I ran in my Toyota 2AZ-FE (I beat the shit outta that engine, put over 100k on it personally in 3 years, didn't burn any oil).
-- I say older than 2010 as around that time is when OEMS started REALLY closing the oil galley tolerances vs before 2008-1010. I'm talking from 0.020 to 0.005" tolerances, then factor lower static oil pressures and variable oil pumps (both PSI AND flow rate), then factor lower quality pistons/rods/cranks, then factor increased emission equipment.
---Also those "looser" tolerances allowed for more oil weight variances and contamination to flow to the filter, vs "tighter" tolerances which do NOT allow to oil weight variances or contaminants to flow to the filter as easily. Using a thick weight oil will actually cause cavitation (air bubbles and heat buildup) which actually create internal wear of the passages and components, like camshafts/phasers.
- Use OEM oil filters and change them every 5k miles with your oil! We cut oil filters from EVERY BRAND AVAILABLE and the non-OEM filters always have design changes the OEM didn't. How did you think you could save 1/2? They also more often than not, don't have internal bypasses that the OEM DOES. They often have WORSE filtration, meaning MORE contaminants running through the engine causing long term wear (aka damage).
-- Yes Jeep says you can go 7k+ on OCIs. Jeep ALSO says "your engine is designed to be able to consume 1 quart of oil every 1k miles", while also only hold 5 quarts of oil, during a 7k+ OCI (Oil Change Interval). So sure, enjoy your extended OCIs, and keeping extra oil on hand for when you need it. Because ALL modern engines are "...designed to consume oil..." more than before.


Change your oil how you want, and suffer when it ends badly. I'm not your father, heck mine wasn't even around to teach me these things. (It's called Dark Humor)


TL:DR

- Don't use heavier weight oil in your modern engines, unless built for that weight or (and this is situational) has very high mileage (150k+). It WILL cause issues over time to things like cams/phasers due to Cavitation.
- DO change your oil early (around 5k miles), especially if you live if hot/cold climates, or don't drive much/often (oil oxidizes and deteriorates over about 6 months).
- DO use OEM filters. They're $7-10. If you think that's expensive, remember a USED engine is still $7k and a NEW engine is damn near $9-12k.

 

[gentlejax]

(TL:DR at bottom)


- If you daily your vehicle, and do your maintenance on time or early, Penzoil Platinum is not only a quality TRUE synthetic, but many OEMs use their products with their own brand label on top. Mopar uses Penzoil Platinum with a Mopar label, this is coming straight out of the technicians and oil suppliers mouths.

so you use Penzoil or Amsoil and mopar oil filters ? this mopar oil thats relabeled Pen Plat can be had at auto parts store or dealer ?

I worked at oil manufacturing facility years ago and I remember the super tech made rigth beside the other "brand name" oils.

 

[Stormtroopin]

did you hear any difference in the engine? was it any smoother or noisier ? any changes at all ? what were you using before that ?

if I recall it had scored top on wear parts per million but not good on shear test . in the video I posted by oil geek .

the reason I asked is because I had used liquid moly before to quiet a ls1 I had and it worked so i thought maybe using the oil and not adding on top of oil that wasnt formulated for the addition.

Engine is definitely more quiet on start up. I do alot of off-roading up in the Sierra Nevadas and in Joshua tree so I see hi temps a lot which is why I went with the heavier oil. I change every 5k and have had it in for at least the last 5 oil changes. Before I was using the 0/20 by LM but the lead tech at our shop recommended I use the 5/30 based on what I do with the jeep. There are a ton of threads on here about what oil viscosity is better. Some swear by 0/20 and some swear by 5/30. If you have warranty I’d stick with the factory spec so the dealership can’t say you used the wrong oil. I’m out of factory warranty and have extended so I will be doing all the work on my vehicle so I run what oil I prefer.

 

[Hootbro]

- Unless you change the oil every 3k miles and it's a BEATER, stay away from SuperTech. PERIOD.

Based on what?

 

[Dilly’S Willy]

so you use Penzoil or Amsoil and mopar oil filters ? this mopar oil thats relabeled Pen Plat can be had at auto parts store or dealer ?

I worked at oil manufacturing facility years ago and I remember the super tech made rigth beside the other "brand name" oils.

I use Penzoil in the JT. I use Amsoil in my rally car (bored/stroked EJ engine) and my 450 Supermoto/Enduro. I DO use Supertech Motorcycle oil in my 230cc Chonda (Hawk DLX from Amazon, has EFI with GM ECU and Denso injector and MAP sensor and some in-house branded O2 sensor) since it doesn't have an oil filter (yeah, NO oil filter) and I change it every 1500-3k miles depending on use (beater bike around property and local town), but again it's a beater that I don't really care about, nor does it make any power...think Honda Grom power but in a full sized dualsport.

Engine is definitely more quiet on start up. I do alot of off-roading up in the Sierra Nevadas and in Joshua tree so I see hi temps a lot which is why I went with the heavier oil. I change every 5k and have had it in for at least the last 5 oil changes. Before I was using the 0/20 by LM but the lead tech at our shop recommended I use the 5/30 based on what I do with the jeep. There are a ton of threads on here about what oil viscosity is better. Some swear by 0/20 and some swear by 5/30. If you have warranty I’d stick with the factory spec so the dealership can’t say you used the wrong oil. I’m out of factory warranty and have extended so I will be doing all the work on my vehicle so I run what oil I prefer.

Using heavier oils in "severe duty" situations is different though, most people don't even know the difference between "normal" and "severe" duty maintenance. Sounds like you read your owners manual, as it states an "oil weight chart" for usage/climate. You definitely use yours in that "severe" duty situation, so that's understandable.

Sadly, many people in the desert states (AZ, NV, SoCal, NM, UT) and cold states (North east, Alaska, frigid midwest in winter) don't realize they also fall under that "severe" duty maintenance schedule, which is probably why some of the reported failure had a copay for engine replacement (speculating, with a grain of salt).
- Extreme heat/cold
- Extended idling (Taxi/Police)
- Off-roading ("Off-road" or "Desert operation" - word for word from owner's manual)
- Towing/Hauling
- Stop-and-Go traffic (think LA/ATL/NYC) (Delivery service)
- Plowing
^ All of those fall under "severe" duty schedule and mean:
-- 5k OCI
-- possibly thicker oil (hot climates only)
-- possibly thinner oil (extreme cold climates only, think Alaska)
-- Manual Transmission fluid changes every 48k miles (even if you do mostly highway in temps over 90*F)
-- T-case fluid changes every 96k
-- Differential fluid changes every 64k
-- Tire rotations every 3k (vs 5k normally)
-- Coolant change at 150k or 10 years (whichever comes first, regardless of use)

Based on what?

Based on my experience, and educated opinion:
- Based on the fact they are a lower QC brand with as many reports of issues as with Royal Purple oils.
- Based on the fact Walmart is a shady business that shouldn't be supported when possible due to their policies on sourcing products from businesses and the ethics of those businesses.
- Based on the fact SuperTech is the cheapest for a reason.

Have you watched any of the oil test videos from Project Farm?

Here's a recent video comparing Amsoil, Lucas, and Penzoil: (CLICK HERE)
- Short cap: Lucas was the worst, Amsoil in middle, Penzoil (Ultra Platinum) was the best.
-- This was testing for modern DAILY DRIVERS, not extreme uses.

I tell my customers this all the time:
"Do what you want, but when time comes when you have an issue related to that service (or lack of) I won't be as willing to help, vs had you followed my suggestions/requirements."

I sold cars, motorcycles, solar, home security...and my customers followed this mindset without having issues persist IF they needed help.

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