Aux Delete- Lets see how it goes.

[DanJT]

I went for bigger (more capacity) batteries on both.

H7? That's what I went with and everything is great with no issues.

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[Bandit’s Lair]

I replaced my stock battery with an Odyssey and also replaced the aux battery with an Odyssey as well. Haven't had any issues. Always reads 14.5v when running, 12.8v when just accessory power on.

Im getting 12.8 under load and 14.3 when coasting. I haven’t looked at it in ACC mode. Maybe I should.

 

[ChecksOut]

H7? That's what I went with and everything is great with no issues.

94R...Rose by another name.

 

[heretic]

Why is there a jumper between N1 & N3?

 

[Master_Cylinder]

And the battery lead and terminal post electrical taped. Probably didn’t need to do the post but Mr Murphy is a pretty good friend so I like to error on the side of caution.

I hate Mr Murphy! He shows up when not invited!

 

[DylanM]

@Bandit’s Lair
A voltage display at idle and normal cruise of roughly 12.8v indicates your battery is fully charged and in good health. A constant voltage reading of around 13.5-14.5v on these new smart charging systems would indicate either the battery is low/in need of charging, battery health is questionable, or the electrical loads on the system are high so the BCM and PCM is setting the target voltage of the alternator high to meet the elevated demand. See this excerpt from the service manual:

 

[ecidiego]

I replaced my stock battery with an Odyssey and also replaced the aux battery with an Odyssey as well. Haven't had any issues. Always reads 14.5v when running, 12.8v when just accessory power on.

How did you get the Odyssey auxiliary to work the plastic casting on mine was incompatible with the terminals did you just modify the terminals

 

[DylanM]

Why is there a jumper between N1 & N3?

In stock configuration power is supplied to N1 from the aux battery positive cable. For the common aux battery delete method where the aux battery and fuse F42 are removed and unused cable ends are just taped up, power still gets to N1 from the main battery via the pathway from N3 through the PCR and on through the aux battery cables.

If one takes the suggestion in the diagram of entirely removing the cables that run to/from the PCR and the aux battery upon its deletion, then you lose the power input to N1. That's why a jumper from N3 (or N2) to N1 is needed. The vehicle will not function without power connected to N1. If you don't remove the aux battery cables then you don't need a jumper.

 

[spanishmack]

How did you get the Odyssey auxiliary to work the plastic casting on mine was incompatible with the terminals did you just modify the terminals

I didn't do anything. The terminals just fit. Let me lookup which model aux battery I got and I'll update this reply.

UPDATE: The battery I bought was
ODYSSEY Extreme Battery
ODS-AGM14

I remember having to buy inverse torx bits was the only extra thing I bought,

 

[ecidiego]

I didn't do anything. The terminals just fit. Let me lookup which model aux battery I got and I'll update this reply.

AUX 14 Batteries for Auxiliary Applications | ODYSSEY® Battery https://share.google/jHmhFTvr8MBnBEWew

I had that one it was physically impossible to use on my 2021

 

[ShadowsPapa]

After upgrading from a Chrysler Corporation battery to an Odyssey yesterday I noticed continued Voltage drop. 14.1 yesterday on the way back from the battery shop. 13.6 when I took the kids to school this morning. 12.8 after my plasma donation appointment. So deleting the Aux this morning before I have to go get the kids from school. Called a couple local shops just to double check my knowledge of the process but they didn’t want to get into trouble so they gave me NO information. Kudos to Rebel Off-road for being helpful!!!! Just another day of being Mr. Mom.

That's normal as it charges the battery - you want it to drop the more you drive........

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So it’s holding 12.8V under throttle and 14V during coasting. That’s according to off-road pages. It hasn’t had any issues starting the few times I did it and the voltage didn’t drop significantly on startup. It still seems a bit low to me. Any thoughts? I’m going to let it sit on the trickle overnight and see if that improves things now that the aux is gone.

Stop getting hung up on the varying voltage. Very normal. It will range from 12.6 with fully charged batteries when it's warm and the engine is under load up to 15.0 when the batteries are low and/or it's cold and there's little engine load. They do not regulate constant voltage -that's old school methods, those days are gone gone gone.
I've seen 12.6-12.8 on long trips when the temps were in the 80s, and I've seen 15 at other times. .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Im getting 12.8 under load and 14.3 when coasting. I haven’t looked at it in ACC mode. Maybe I should.

No, do not.

 

[dcs1779]

I just did mine today. Truck would not start without jumping it so I bit the bullet and grabbed an “Odyssey Alternative” and pulled both the main and the Aux. I have had great luck with Optima. I taped up the pos and neg of the Aux and pulled Fuse 42. So far no codes or lights.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I ran an Optima on my LJ. Good battery. I just wanted to do the odyssey thing this time to see if there was a quality difference.

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