Coil spring recommendations

[Serji]

Hi,

I'm new

Currently have a 2022 jeep gladiator sport (gas) with 33" tires. Got a set of JTR shocks for free.

Looking for some recommendations on a coil spring set to pair with the JTR shocks. Currently, use the truck for overlanding/camping and alot of bumpy dirt roads, and wouldn't mind a 2-3 inch lift.

Thoughts? Not looking to break the bank and have a budget of roughly $500.

Thanks!

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[smlobx]

Welcome!

I use my JTR for the same thing and with the added weight I found the Rubicon shocks left a lot to be desired…sorry.
I just ordered the AEV Dual Sport suspension kit and hope to install it in the next few weeks. I feel it is the best solution for me but it is out of your price range.

 

[JTDay]

Your best bet in that case would be to buy the Rubicon springs and install a small lift spacer in the front. That might get you 2 inches of lift in the front. You'll need to adjust your drag link to recenter your steering wheel but that would be the cheapest, effective option and not look weird with 33s.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Stock shocks work best with stock coils. They only have about 8" of travel.

With 2-3" of lift, normally you run shocks that have about 10" of travel.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Maybe I should sell the Rubicon springs I have sitting around..........

I went with the Synergy front springs and love them and won't go back to Rubicon springs after experiencing the ride and handling of the synergy springs.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

You basically can’t just stick longer springs under a truck and have it be safe or enjoyable to drive.

Most people will tell you AEV or Clayton for overlanding. I had the 2.5” AEV springs which is more like a 3” lift and now have the 3” “heavy duty” springs which are more like 3.5” of lift. With a full load of overlanding gear, I retain some rake.

Stock shocks won’t work with longer springs and they’ll be under damped (bouncy). Also your caster will be off and the truck wont drive right and possibly be unsafe in emergency handling. You’ll need either longer control arms or drop brackets to correct the geometry and a rear track bar drop bracket.

I’d recommend the AEV kit as it’s a minimal system with good on road handling, or get the springs and then buy some front LCA drop brackets and a rear track bar bracket and Frankenstein it. You’ll also need extended bump stops and extended anti-swaybar ends but there are tons of options out there for those. If you lift the truck any amount over probably an inch, you will need to loosen all 16 ends of all 8 control arms and retighten them on the ground under weight or you will damage the rubber ends.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Stock shocks won’t work with longer springs and they’ll be under damped (bouncy). Also your caster will be off and the truck wont drive right and possibly be unsafe in emergency handling.

For as high as he wants, yeah, but for less than 2", you really don't need more.

I'm running stock shocks on longer springs - it's the rate that matters. you can lift the truck with stiffer springs that aren't longer and that's where the shocks will be "wrong" but if you keep the same rate or similar rate, it's not a problem. Shock length becomes the issue, but the shock valving could be the same if the spring rate was the same - just a different length.

i've got Synergy springs under the front of mine - handing is stellar, ride - just ask my wife how nice it rides. And it handles well with the snow plow on it.
Yes, around here, idiots on the highways, heavy traffic, deer and other critters, i've needed to be alert and use what the truck had to avoid problems and it was at least as good as it was stock.
As far as caster - it depends on how far you lift it and what your truck came with. Some have crappy caster to begin with - leaving the factory near the lower end of specs while others may be a bit better. You can do a small lift without any problems (been there, done that)
For over 1.5" I do recommend at least the MOPAR longer LCAs, over 2" I'd go farther than that.

All I'm saying is that it depends on the lift amount. You can put different springs under and do a lot - and not have problems. But for 2" or more - absolutely never assume "hey, springs and done".

I'm sitting at 1.5" in the front and .75" up in the back. Stock shocks, only MOPAR longer LCAs. Nothing else. Handles and rides like a dream.

As far as what the OP is looking at - 2 to 3 inch lift, yeah, it's going to need more than just springs for sure. I'd never try to do that much just by sticking springs under it. Geometry changes, it's a larger caster change, the front axle will need to be recentered for sure (even on my 2020 the front axle was off and I wasn't near 2")

 

[darkhorse13]

Unfortunately those OEM JTR shocks are nothing special and the JTR springs will sag terribly with the weight. If you plan on adding weight, aftermarket springs are a must.

I recommend the Synergy 2" Starter system. The ride quality is great and you get the advertised lift with the springs. Synergy also incorporates the OEM "rake" into their springs so you can add weight without sag. Sorry, I'm not sure you'll be able to get the performance you are looking for at a $500 budget. Either spend a little more now for a starter system or save for a "better" kit like the AEV complete Dual Sport package with shocks.

Synergy kit with your OEM JTR springs (risking geometry and alignment issues) = $1,160

AEV Dual Sport complete kit = $1,809

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Unfortunately those OEM JTR shocks are nothing special and the JTR springs will sag terribly with the weight. If you plan on adding weight, aftermarket springs are a must.

I didn't even put the JTR shocks back on my 2022 Overland. I had them on my 2020 Overland and the truck just didn't feel right and I felt it a bit bouncy. Looked cool, impressive, amaze your friends type of look - but that's as far as it went. So when I stripped my 2020 to trade it in for the 2022, I boxed up the JTR shocks and they are still sitting in a box on the shelf. Not impressed.

The Synergy springs are dual rate. I have them only on the front but when putting the snow plow on, they handle the weight and still ride nicely. It's that dual rate bit.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

For as high as he wants, yeah, but for less than 2", you really don't need more.

I'm running stock shocks on longer springs - it's the rate that matters. you can lift the truck with stiffer springs that aren't longer and that's where the shocks will be "wrong" but if you keep the same rate or similar rate, it's not a problem. Shock length becomes the issue, but the shock valving could be the same if the spring rate was the same - just a different length.

i've got Synergy springs under the front of mine - handing is stellar, ride - just ask my wife how nice it rides. And it handles well with the snow plow on it.
Yes, around here, idiots on the highways, heavy traffic, deer and other critters, i've needed to be alert and use what the truck had to avoid problems and it was at least as good as it was stock.
As far as caster - it depends on how far you lift it and what your truck came with. Some have crappy caster to begin with - leaving the factory near the lower end of specs while others may be a bit better. You can do a small lift without any problems (been there, done that)
For over 1.5" I do recommend at least the MOPAR longer LCAs, over 2" I'd go farther than that.

All I'm saying is that it depends on the lift amount. You can put different springs under and do a lot - and not have problems. But for 2" or more - absolutely never assume "hey, springs and done".

I'm sitting at 1.5" in the front and .75" up in the back. Stock shocks, only MOPAR longer LCAs. Nothing else. Handles and rides like a dream.

As far as what the OP is looking at - 2 to 3 inch lift, yeah, it's going to need more than just springs for sure. I'd never try to do that much just by sticking springs under it. Geometry changes, it's a larger caster change, the front axle will need to be recentered for sure (even on my 2020 the front axle was off and I wasn't near 2")

Another thing to consider is that all these spring lift amounts are nominal. Trail Recon did a lift special with like 6 Jeeps and every manufacturer’s 2.5” lift was different. The 2.5 AEV was taller than the 3 inch Rock Krawler. Definitely anyone looking at springs needs to consult the manufacturers recommendations. It’s good to know you can squeak by with a 2 inch and under lift without a lot of extra stuff. Although, even on the AEV 2.5 lift, they state you don’t need to replace your front track bar, but in reality your truck will pull without one and the kit benefits from an aftermarket heavy duty rear swaybar as well.

One reason I’m quick to go down the full lift kit path, is that whenever someone says “overlanding,” to me this means more gear and more weight. Overlanders are usually looking for the upper end of spring rate and lift for a given nominal size. AEV’s goal was less lift and more load capacity. Still, even with triple rate springs, this ends up meaning a lot of lift. Unladen, my truck could run 40s with fender trimming. That’s a lot of lift from a 3” spring.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Although, even on the AEV 2.5 lift, they state you don’t need to replace your front track bar,

Really? With my two JTs, seeing how even small lifts toss that axle off center, I'd expect anything 2.5" or better is "you really should get a more beefy and adjustable trackbar".
The stock bar is meant to run nearly parallel meaning forces are pulling or pushing almost a direct end to end line. Lift the truck and now the forces are off-centered more, possibly causing bow of the track bar. It's like pushing the ends of a simple bow together to string it - that's how a stock track bar can act when lifted.

s that whenever someone says “overlanding,” to me this means more gear and more weight.

Yeah, racks, caps, a lot of gear in the rear...... definitely maxing out payload.

and every manufacturer’s 2.5” lift was different.

IMO, a given. We see it just with "rubicon springs" how one guy gets 3/4" and another gets 1" and a third says "I got over 1"!!"
Each of these trucks has a different weight anyway, but each company makes their springs with different wire sizes, number of coils, coil spacing and so on.
It's being discussed on the Wrangler forum right now about how a 2" lift might end up well over 2", closer to 3", depending on the company and the Jeep it's put under. Some want "exactly how much lift will I get with.........." but no one can possibly say for sure.

 

[darkhorse13]

truck just didn't feel right and I felt it a bit bouncy. Looked cool, impressive, amaze your friends type of look - but that's as far as it went.

That is honestly the best way to describe OEM JTR shocks! They look cool with the logos and colors but performance is lackluster.

 

[chorky]

Another thing to consider is that all these spring lift amounts are nominal. Trail Recon did a lift special with like 6 Jeeps and every manufacturer’s 2.5” lift was different. The 2.5 AEV was taller than the 3 inch Rock Krawler. Definitely anyone looking at springs needs to consult the manufacturers recommendations. It’s good to know you can squeak by with a 2 inch and under lift without a lot of extra stuff. Although, even on the AEV 2.5 lift, they state you don’t need to replace your front track bar, but in reality your truck will pull without one and the kit benefits from an aftermarket heavy duty rear swaybar as well.

One reason I’m quick to go down the full lift kit path, is that whenever someone says “overlanding,” to me this means more gear and more weight. Overlanders are usually looking for the upper end of spring rate and lift for a given nominal size. AEV’s goal was less lift and more load capacity. Still, even with triple rate springs, this ends up meaning a lot of lift. Unladen, my truck could run 40s with fender trimming. That’s a lot of lift from a 3” spring.

That review Brad did with that video was terrible and probably his worst one - being honest. All of those vehicles were totally stock with no weight in them. Not many people getting those lifts are fully stock and unloaded. So it is a terrible way to ‘review’ a lift when it is being used in a capacity and form totally different than what it was designed for. People who buy the AEV lift typically do so to accommodate a heavier constant load. Same with clayton or synergy. That video is a really poor example of what to expect with those lift options. For reference when I had about 200 pounds under GVW and the AEV lift with steer smarts (with clevite bushings) track bars, it rode like a cadillac. Which is wildly different than what Brad experienced because that rig he drove was totally stock.

 

[Wolf Island Diver]

Really? With my two JTs, seeing how even small lifts toss that axle off center, I'd expect anything 2.5" or better is "you really should get a more beefy and adjustable trackbar".
The stock bar is meant to run nearly parallel meaning forces are pulling or pushing almost a direct end to end line. Lift the truck and now the forces are off-centered more, possibly causing bow of the track bar. It's like pushing the ends of a simple bow together to string it - that's how a stock track bar can act when lifted.

Believe it or not they don’t. I think AEV was shooting for a price point, so perhaps motivated reasoning. Mine drove fine with the stock bar, but I noticed it pulled a little. With 37s it’s a little hard to tell ?. I just had a Synergy bar installed. Overall the truck drives 100% better than stock. I would have sold this thing if I couldn’t have corrected the stock suspension tuning. I’ve never had a truck or Jeep that drove as poorly as this JTRD in stock form; constantly bottoming out, wandering, impossible to keep in a lane. It was borderline unsafe and nerve racking to drive on the interstate around jersey walls.

 

[Jcsii]

I just replaced my rear springs with ICON 1.5" springs and shocks. I have tried the "budget" route, unfortunately you are better off saving up for a more complete kit.

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