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Control arm drop brackets?

Fouts

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I'll bite.....why?
It sounds like you are running a four inch lift with stock springs so does that mean you are running 4 inch spacers?​
If you are talking about geometry correction brackets they have limitations and no fine tuning.​
the Patagonias are a cheap hard to balance tire, especially in a 40.​
take your pick.​
 
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JeepCrasher

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It sounds like you are running a four inch lift with stock springs so does that mean you are running 4 inch spacers?​
If you are talking about geometry correction brackets they have limitations and no fine tuning.​
the Patagonias are a cheap hard to balance tire, especially in a 40.​
take your pick.​
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I'm with you now....no sir. I'm running the 4" rustys springs and get wobble. The arms are sloped pretty good. So as a test I put back in the original springs ( with the rest of the rustys kit still installed)and the arms ARE A LOT FLATTER. So when I drove with shorter springs just as a test it drove great. No wobble, no shimmy, no nothing. That being said, any negative difference I felt from bone stock, new off the lot I would attribute to cheaper harder tires
 

mgw750

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I have the rancho correction brackets. My truck isn't set up like yours. 33 inch tires and rancho level it kit which picked up the front my altitude almost 2 1/2 inches and I have a 1/2 spacer also. hopefully it's not just my imagination but the truck tracks better,bi can let go of the steering at 70mph and tracks straight as can be. and the bit of bump steer I had before with a Teraflex 1 1/2 inch spacer level is nearly gone. Also these brackets have 3 levels of adjustability. Mine is at the lowest mount.
 

calipoontappa

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You and I are having the SAME issue my friend. Exactly the same, it’s kinda weird.
I have the 3.5 Clayton Overland kit which gave me over 4” in height and I’m running 38” Patagonias. It was fine for a while then I started to get some shakes, not death wobble but def some shakes. So I started to throw money at it… 2.5 ton Apex aluminum steering(drag link & tie rod), new ball joints, Reid racing knuckles, Yeti track bar (much beefier than Clayton), Fox ATS 2.0 stabilizer, SteerSmarts track bar relocation, drag link flip kit, Steersmarts sector brace and most recently the drop brackets…

After all that I have much less of an issue but it’s definitely still there. I’ve taken it it to 2 4x4 shops both said everything is installed correctly and everything is torqued properly, I’ve also had it aligned 3 times and have had it balanced 2 times recently. Tried all air pressures and have set the castor to all angles just to see what sticks.

I’m out of ideas and so are the shops lol

I found a custom Jeep builder here in SD that is going to look at it for me next week. I’ll let you know if he figures out anything.
 

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Escape.idiocracy

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I understand that everything is tight…. But have things like the track bar been removed to inspect the bolt holes?
This might sound dumb but my jk I wollowed the track bar axle mount bolt hole….. “torqued” but still some how wollowed the bolt hole…. Ended up welding some 1/8” thick washers to the mount as a bandaid until the bracket was replaced..

Just something else to look for.
DW is always from something….. something is either bent, wollowed out, or worn out.

the big tire game amplifies Everything……. And I mean everything.
If you haven’t owned/built a vehicle to be on 40”+ tires……. May be a better to step back down to a 37/38” tire until everything else is built. Tons, hydro, all mounts replaced etc. (Just my keyboard warrior $0.02….. the tires are the cheapest aspect of the game….)
 

NCJL

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This thread reminded of a joke I heard years ago on the lake bed in Johnson Valley.

Guy calls off-road shop telling them all the mods they have done to there Jeep. Has had the Jeep at several shops and everything is installed correctly. Need a shop experienced with finding a problem associated with DW. Shop owner replies “how long have you had your MTR’s?”

Modern version of this joke only requires a tire name change.

I think it’s tires.
 

SSinGA

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Still have factory ball joints?
 

Minty JL

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Still have factory ball joints?
I was just getting ready to ask the same thing. 40s will kill the OEM ball joints quickly. Not to mention 40s on Dana 44s is already at the ragged edge .
 

Rusty PW

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This thread reminded of a joke I heard years ago on the lake bed in Johnson Valley.

Guy calls off-road shop telling them all the mods they have done to there Jeep. Has had the Jeep at several shops and everything is installed correctly. Need a shop experienced with finding a problem associated with DW. Shop owner replies “how long have you had your MTR’s?”

Modern version of this joke only requires a tire name change.

I think it’s tires.
2005 to 2009 Power Wagons had the DW. Part of it was traced back to the BFG AT's that came oem. Ram was replacing the tires under the TSB.
 

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Any resolution?
 

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You said new ball joints, which ones and how long ago? im nuts about steering and ordered some dynatrac hd prosteer ball joints before my gladiator has even arrived. i learned the 40" and plastic factory inserts dont mix on my last truck.
 
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OHJeeper

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One other thing to check, because I went through a very similar process as you did with my daughter's JK (swapping springs back to OEM, etc). The geometry correction brackets definitely helped, but what finally stopped her DW was the angle of the steering stabilizer.

It was not very "angled" in my opinion (maybe 5º from the axle) but when I rotated the mount on the tie-rod side and made the SS body as close to perfectly in line with the axle as I could her DW went away completely.
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