Dealer overfilled oil

[ReverendZ]

One of the articles I found about too much oil inside of the engine. They all say the samething.

How Too Much Oil Affects Your Car:
Engine oil is essential, but it's possible to overfill engine oil. That can create the opposite effect of having the correct amount of added oil and some similar effects to having too little oil in the engine.

Even though that sounds counterintuitive, there are six main issues caused by excessive engine oil. Here they are:

Oil Froth:
Oil froth occurs when you add too much oil to the engine, the maximum oil level surpasses the top of the oil pan, and it starts filling the crankcase. The crankcase houses the crankshaft to which the bottom of each connecting rod is attached. The crankshaft is lobed, which allows the connecting rods and pistons to move up and down as it spins.

When too much oil fills the oil pan, these lobes aerate the oil, causing it to foam. As foamy oil circulates through the necessary engine parts, the trapped air allows engine overheating as the oil can't consistently reach each piece all the time. It can also no longer assist the coolant in dissipating heat optimally.

Excess Oil Pressure:
Engines already function with massive amounts of internal pressure. Overfilling oil only serves to increase the oil pressure within the engine. A short-lived, temporary increase in internal engine pressures may not damage much, but it can cause premature part wear and leaks over time.

Oil Leaks:
Oil leaks are not necessarily a result of excessive amounts of oil sitting in an engine but rather from excessive internal oil pressure over time. An engine is made of many moving parts, and these parts must be connected somehow. Leaks occur when the gaskets, seals, clamps, and connectors are eventually pushed beyond their limits.

Common places for oil leaks include the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil pump, and even the turbocharger — if your car has one. Oil can even leak into the engine's combustion chamber via the spark plug o-rings or valve guide seals, leading to additional issues.

Burning Oil:
Burning oil comes from oil leaking into the engine and igniting with the air-fuel mixture. It can happen because of the domino effect triggered by excessive oil pressure. Even though oil can burn, it's not supposed to be injected into the combustion chamber like fuel. So if it's burning when it goes into the combustion chamber, there's a problem.

The telltale sign of an engine burning oil is blue smoke exiting through the tailpipe. It's often accompanied by the distinctive smell of oil, both inside and outside the vehicle. Oil can enter the engine through vulnerable seals, gaskets, and weak points where moving parts slide across various surfaces, including the spark plugs, pistons, and even the head gasket.

Head gasket failures are a cause for serious concern, and they are not cheap to repair. Fortunately, leaking spark plug o-rings are much more common than oil leaks through the head gasket. More telling signs of head gasket failure include engine overheating and white smoke exiting the exhaust pipe because of burning coolant.

Misfires:
Misfires occur when something prevents or delays proper air-fuel combustion within one or more of the combustion chambers. The combustion chamber is the space between the top of the piston and the cylinder head where combustion occurs. An engine needs air, fuel, and spark for proper combustion to occur.

As it relates to engine oil, the lack of spark is the most common reason for misfires as oil leaks onto the spark plug and prevents it from firing. It effectively "drowns out" the ignition source. A large leak, regardless of whether or not it is coming from the spark plug o-ring, can have the same effect by overwhelming the combustion chamber with too much fluid.

Clogged Catalytic Converters:
Catalytic converters help neutralize harmful exhaust gases exiting the engine before being expelled through the exhaust pipe. They are made from precious, expensive metals and contain a honeycomb-like structure through which exhaust gases pass. Unfortunately, unburned oil that does make it through the engine can build up within the honeycomb structures of the catalytic converters, causing them to fail.

Whereas replacement spark plugs and even a replacement valve cover gasket are relatively inexpensive fixes, catalytic converters are very expensive because of their composition. Labor costs are not usually that bad, but a replacement catalytic converter can cost upwards of $2,000

Yes, all of this. Yet it neglects to mention if enough froth is present the foam gets pumped through to the bearing surfaces which destroys the hydrodynamic wedge which carries the load of the reciprocating mass. This is where you can get knocking similar to being underfilled or sucking the pan dry. This can also take out cam bearing surfaces in the heads on modern ohc engines along with damage to the cam followers.
Catalytic converters for our JTs go $5000.00 a side.

Sponsored

 

[Vtur]

Not all is full. Some is partial synthetic. It must be partial or full but there's a lot of partial out there.

Thanks for clarification. I got it mixed up between conventional oils.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

One of the articles I found about too much oil inside of the engine. They all say the samething.

How Too Much Oil Affects Your Car:
Engine oil is essential, but it's possible to overfill engine oil. That can create the opposite effect of having the correct amount of added oil and some similar effects to having too little oil in the engine.

Even though that sounds counterintuitive, there are six main issues caused by excessive engine oil. Here they are:

Oil Froth:
Oil froth occurs when you add too much oil to the engine, the maximum oil level surpasses the top of the oil pan, and it starts filling the crankcase. The crankcase houses the crankshaft to which the bottom of each connecting rod is attached. The crankshaft is lobed, which allows the connecting rods and pistons to move up and down as it spins.

When too much oil fills the oil pan, these lobes aerate the oil, causing it to foam. As foamy oil circulates through the necessary engine parts, the trapped air allows engine overheating as the oil can't consistently reach each piece all the time. It can also no longer assist the coolant in dissipating heat optimally.

Excess Oil Pressure:
Engines already function with massive amounts of internal pressure. Overfilling oil only serves to increase the oil pressure within the engine. A short-lived, temporary increase in internal engine pressures may not damage much, but it can cause premature part wear and leaks over time.

Oil Leaks:
Oil leaks are not necessarily a result of excessive amounts of oil sitting in an engine but rather from excessive internal oil pressure over time. An engine is made of many moving parts, and these parts must be connected somehow. Leaks occur when the gaskets, seals, clamps, and connectors are eventually pushed beyond their limits.

Common places for oil leaks include the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil pump, and even the turbocharger — if your car has one. Oil can even leak into the engine's combustion chamber via the spark plug o-rings or valve guide seals, leading to additional issues.

Burning Oil:
Burning oil comes from oil leaking into the engine and igniting with the air-fuel mixture. It can happen because of the domino effect triggered by excessive oil pressure. Even though oil can burn, it's not supposed to be injected into the combustion chamber like fuel. So if it's burning when it goes into the combustion chamber, there's a problem.

The telltale sign of an engine burning oil is blue smoke exiting through the tailpipe. It's often accompanied by the distinctive smell of oil, both inside and outside the vehicle. Oil can enter the engine through vulnerable seals, gaskets, and weak points where moving parts slide across various surfaces, including the spark plugs, pistons, and even the head gasket.

Head gasket failures are a cause for serious concern, and they are not cheap to repair. Fortunately, leaking spark plug o-rings are much more common than oil leaks through the head gasket. More telling signs of head gasket failure include engine overheating and white smoke exiting the exhaust pipe because of burning coolant.

Misfires:
Misfires occur when something prevents or delays proper air-fuel combustion within one or more of the combustion chambers. The combustion chamber is the space between the top of the piston and the cylinder head where combustion occurs. An engine needs air, fuel, and spark for proper combustion to occur.

As it relates to engine oil, the lack of spark is the most common reason for misfires as oil leaks onto the spark plug and prevents it from firing. It effectively "drowns out" the ignition source. A large leak, regardless of whether or not it is coming from the spark plug o-ring, can have the same effect by overwhelming the combustion chamber with too much fluid.

Clogged Catalytic Converters:
Catalytic converters help neutralize harmful exhaust gases exiting the engine before being expelled through the exhaust pipe. They are made from precious, expensive metals and contain a honeycomb-like structure through which exhaust gases pass. Unfortunately, unburned oil that does make it through the engine can build up within the honeycomb structures of the catalytic converters, causing them to fail.

Whereas replacement spark plugs and even a replacement valve cover gasket are relatively inexpensive fixes, catalytic converters are very expensive because of their composition. Labor costs are not usually that bad, but a replacement catalytic converter can cost upwards of $2,000

They all say the same thing because for the most part, the source of the original for each is likely the same. I did a check on 3 articles that mirror this - and I have a funny feeling they all got their info from the same place. And some of it is wrong.

Too much oil not only doesn't increase oil pressure, it can't possibly increase it. In fact, they contradict themselves by saying it increases oil pressure then in the next breath say that it whips and foams the oil. That degreases oil pressure.

A pump drawing in foaming oil or even just oil saturated with air can't build pressure because the air in the oil compresses, lowering the pressure.
So way too much oil is damaging in the respect that there is REDUCED pressure, REDUCED oil flow to critical parts, meaning you don't have the film of oil between parts such as crankshaft journals and main bearings. There's no solid film of oil for the crankshaft to ride on.

Anyone that knows hydraulic systems knows that the oiling system of any engine is a simple hydraulic pump. The pickup tube sits just off the bottom of the pan submerged in oil.
An oil pump pushes a volume of oil. Volume against resistance = pressure. The pump doesn't create pressure, it moves a volume of oil.
Since you aren't changing the clearances of the bearings or the viscosity of the oil, you can't change the pressure. Further, oil pressure is controlled by a pressure relief valve. On many old-school engines that it set at about 80 PSI. So any attempt at more pressure by installing, for example, a high volume pump, will be negated when the relief valve opens.
The 3.6 has two modes of operation - they change the volume of the pump and the relieve pressure. It operates at about 30 psi or 70 psi depending on RPM.
Putting more oil in the pan doesn't change the amount of oil the pump can pull into itself or push out into the oil galleries, nor does it change the pressure relief valve setting.
If the oil is whipped around increasing air content, and the pump still pulls in what it normally does, and it pushes that volume of oil through the system, the air will compress and you'll likely struggle to maintain the pressure. It certainly can't be higher, and in most cases would likely be lower.

So they are not only incorrect, they are contradicting themselves. Can't have it both ways.

(some of us old guys have also seen the results of too much oil in foamed oil and lowered oil pressure that is unsteady and fluctuates, unlike pure unaerated oil)

Let's address this part (obviously written by a non-mechanic, an amateur)

>>
Common places for oil leaks include the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil pump, and even the turbocharger — if your car has one. Oil can even leak into the engine's combustion chamber via the spark plug o-rings or valve guide seals, leading to additional issues.

Burning Oil:
Burning oil comes from oil leaking into the engine and igniting with the air-fuel mixture. It can happen because of the domino effect triggered by excessive oil pressure.<<

Leaking into the combustion chamber via the spark plug o-rings? Really? Then you have very loose spark plugs - and how does the oil get up to the base of the spark plug to be sucked in, and why doesn't the engine make noise when the combustion pressure forces out past the plug?
What REALLY happens is the excess oil in the chamber may be forced OUT through spark plug seals, but that spark plug would have to be drowning in oil and be LOOSE to pull oil in. you only have so much vacuum pulling things in, but you have a hell of a lot of pressure pushing things out.

How will too much oil leak out the valve cover gaskets (further evidence an amateur wrote this)
Would like to know that since the pump pumps a maximum volume of oil no matter how much is in the pan, and in fact would pump LESS oil if it was too full and FOAMED. So you'd have LESS oil to the upper head areas. There's always oil up there anyway, so if it's going to leak, it would be leaking.

Sorry, just a lot of stuff there making no sense - and which flies against personal experiences (decades of said experiences and training)

7 quarts in a 5 quart system should raise red flags - but due to oil foaming, REDUCED oil pressure, and lack of lubrication to critical parts. Not leaks and excess pressure and oil getting in past spark plugs.
The crankshaft whipping the oil not only aerates it, it puts a lot more "oil mist" in the air in the crankcase, so the PCV system may be incapable to stripping the excess oil out, leading to oil in the combustion chambers. It's not from "excess pressure", it's from being whipped into the air by a spinning crankshaft, and being "sucked out" by the PCV system which becomes over-loaded.

A challenge - prove that too much oil INCREASES pressure and show exactly how it happens, don't just say "because I say so" or "I've seen it" - explain how it can happen following the path the oil takes through the pump and engine.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes, all of this. Yet it neglects to mention if enough froth is present the foam gets pumped through to the bearing surfaces which destroys the hydrodynamic wedge which carries the load of the reciprocating mass. This is where you can get knocking similar to being underfilled or sucking the pan dry. This can also take out cam bearing surfaces in the heads on modern ohc engines along with damage to the cam followers.
Catalytic converters for our JTs go $5000.00 a side.

It's half wrong. You get LOWER oil pressure. The oil is aerated, the air is compressed, and pressure is LOWERED. So you have a lower volume of oil flowing through the galleries to the bearings, cam bearings, less to lube the followers (rockers) and so on.

 

[Rusty PW]

They all say the same thing because for the most part, the source of the original for each is likely the same. I did a check on 3 articles that mirror this - and I have a funny feeling they all got their info from the same place. And some of it is wrong.

Too much oil not only doesn't increase oil pressure, it can't possibly increase it. In fact, they contradict themselves by saying it increases oil pressure then in the next breath say that it whips and foams the oil. That degreases oil pressure.

A pump drawing in foaming oil or even just oil saturated with air can't build pressure because the air in the oil compresses, lowering the pressure.
So way too much oil is damaging in the respect that there is REDUCED pressure, REDUCED oil flow to critical parts, meaning you don't have the film of oil between parts such as crankshaft journals and main bearings. There's no solid film of oil for the crankshaft to ride on.

Anyone that knows hydraulic systems knows that the oiling system of any engine is a simple hydraulic pump. The pickup tube sits just off the bottom of the pan submerged in oil.
An oil pump pushes a volume of oil. Volume against resistance = pressure. The pump doesn't create pressure, it moves a volume of oil.
Since you aren't changing the clearances of the bearings or the viscosity of the oil, you can't change the pressure. Further, oil pressure is controlled by a pressure relief valve. On many old-school engines that it set at about 80 PSI. So any attempt at more pressure by installing, for example, a high volume pump, will be negated when the relief valve opens.
The 3.6 has two modes of operation - they change the volume of the pump and the relieve pressure. It operates at about 30 psi or 70 psi depending on RPM.
Putting more oil in the pan doesn't change the amount of oil the pump can pull into itself or push out into the oil galleries, nor does it change the pressure relief valve setting.
If the oil is whipped around increasing air content, and the pump still pulls in what it normally does, and it pushes that volume of oil through the system, the air will compress and you'll likely struggle to maintain the pressure. It certainly can't be higher, and in most cases would likely be lower.

So they are not only incorrect, they are contradicting themselves. Can't have it both ways.

(some of us old guys have also seen the results of too much oil in foamed oil and lowered oil pressure that is unsteady and fluctuates, unlike pure unaerated oil)

Let's address this part (obviously written by a non-mechanic, an amateur)

>>
Common places for oil leaks include the oil filter housing, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, oil pump, and even the turbocharger — if your car has one. Oil can even leak into the engine's combustion chamber via the spark plug o-rings or valve guide seals, leading to additional issues.

Burning Oil:
Burning oil comes from oil leaking into the engine and igniting with the air-fuel mixture. It can happen because of the domino effect triggered by excessive oil pressure.<<

Leaking into the combustion chamber via the spark plug o-rings? Really? Then you have very loose spark plugs - and how does the oil get up to the base of the spark plug to be sucked in, and why doesn't the engine make noise when the combustion pressure forces out past the plug?
What REALLY happens is the excess oil in the chamber may be forced OUT through spark plug seals, but that spark plug would have to be drowning in oil and be LOOSE to pull oil in. you only have so much vacuum pulling things in, but you have a hell of a lot of pressure pushing things out.

How will too much oil leak out the valve cover gaskets (further evidence an amateur wrote this)
Would like to know that since the pump pumps a maximum volume of oil no matter how much is in the pan, and in fact would pump LESS oil if it was too full and FOAMED. So you'd have LESS oil to the upper head areas. There's always oil up there anyway, so if it's going to leak, it would be leaking.

Sorry, just a lot of stuff there making no sense - and which flies against personal experiences (decades of said experiences and training)

7 quarts in a 5 quart system should raise red flags - but due to oil foaming, REDUCED oil pressure, and lack of lubrication to critical parts. Not leaks and excess pressure and oil getting in past spark plugs.
The crankshaft whipping the oil not only aerates it, it puts a lot more "oil mist" in the air in the crankcase, so the PCV system may be incapable to stripping the excess oil out, leading to oil in the combustion chambers. It's not from "excess pressure", it's from being whipped into the air by a spinning crankshaft, and being "sucked out" by the PCV system which becomes over-loaded.

A challenge - prove that too much oil INCREASES pressure and show exactly how it happens, don't just say "because I say so" or "I've seen it" - explain how it can happen following the path the oil takes through the pump and engine.

I love it when you go on a rant. And you post these long winded replies. It tickles my funny bone.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

May I step in here to provide real world experience and photos of my new (2nd) engine and transmission I had installed end of November 2022. Engine was over filled and had 12 quarts in it and was then immediately put on the highway to BC and back to Calgary. I had to get out to the mine for one last weekend before season shut down.
The install was done over 3 days and work was checked by shop Forman and service manager.

The trip was around 1900k kms, summiting several mountain passes there and back and when I got home I did an oil change and sample for the lab. As some of you know, my first engine was consuming 10-12 ounces of coolant in 10k km period and FCA engineer, NORM had no problem with this, “it’s normal” I’m told.

Anyway, I’m coming back from BC and the engine is just running hotter than I’ve been used to and I call the service manager to inform him of the temps I’m seeing. Temps are high to me, pressure is strong. ??IDK, no alarm bells went off for the service manager and I kept my eye on it. It did feel under powered too.

I was burning no oil. Engine ran smooth and quiet.

Then I got home, drained the oil and shit my pants! The oil just kept pouring out!! WHAT THE F@$k!!!?? The catch pan almost overfilled!
I poured out 12 quarts and called the service manager at home and showed him photos.

I took off the air box and air tube to the throttle body and took photos. Everything was swimming in oil. MAF sensor soaked. I was devastated and truck went in the next morning and had the intake, coils, plugs taken off and cleaned or replaced.

Tech made the error of assuming the crate engine was dry. It actually came filled, too full I assuming- 6 quarts from the assembly plant. Tech and assembly plant can argue who put in what but 12 came out. Tech said the stick looked good when he filled it. ??? Lots of questions ….

The gauge photo is during the trip coming home heading up a steep mountain pass at Radium, BC.

I’ve put on 12k kms since the install. For the next 10k that followed, I changed the oil every 1600-1800k and had lab samples done. I cut open all my oil filters and examined. Engine is great. Lab samples are great. This has been the best running engine I’ve had in a very long time.
Does this case win a prize?

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I had stopped the oil flowing toward the intake runners just in time. Like i said, it wasn’t burning oil that I saw or smelled. Heres to doing an early first oil change. I normally do that at 1000k km but the trip extended that to 1900 k

One more point to make. I also have no Blowby. Engine running cold or hot, pull oil cap and no air blow out. Did I stumble on to something good from this experience?

 

[ReverendZ]

I had stopped the oil flowing toward the intake runners just in time. Like i said, it wasn’t burning oil that I saw or smelled. Heres to doing an early first oil change. I normally do that at 1000k km but the trip extended that to 1900 k

One more point to make. I also have no Blowby. Engine running cold or hot, pull oil cap and no air blow out. Did I stumble on to something good from this experience?

I think you might be on to something. Fill them with 12q at initial break in and hydraulically seat the rings...
It wouldn't get to whip the oil just push it around and super lubricate the bottom end. Thank you for your experiences.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

I think you might be on to something. Fill them with 12q at initial break in and hydraulically seat the rings...
It wouldn't get to whip the oil just push it around and super lubricate the bottom end. Thank you for your experiences.

That’s exactly what I was thinking. Found by mistake. Like chocolate falling into peanut butter

 

[Maximus Gladius]

What never happened in that first 1900k km is low oil pressure. Papa explained good reasoning above in his earlier posts. The service manager questioned the oil pressure when I was driving and all was normal.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Further to my post above draining out 12 quarts of oil on my first oil change done at 1567k km (not 1900 like I mentioned above) I'm attaching my first 6 oil analysis samples from the lab to see if internal engine damage had occurred from taking the truck on a 1567k km trip to BC and back, summiting several mountain passes both ways the weekend I picked up the truck from having the new engine installed.

Each oil and filter change was done from 1567k to 1757k kms, lab analysis done to watch the numbers in the metals to determine if internal damage was done and what the wear metals were trending. Up, down or staying flat. The question was, can this engine survive having done this 1567k km trip with 12 quarts of oil in the engine. Guesses and opinions aside, here is what the lab detected. After I did my 6 oil samples in just shy of 10k kms, I'm now going to run a full 8k kms and do an oil change and oil analysis.

I've put on 13k kms since the new engine was installed and it runs strong, smooth, quiet and no blowby. I also run a properly oiled K&N intake filter. (NOTE: If this air cleaner doesn't work, you'll see the contamination in the oil analysis under Silicon and Sodium.)

 

[ReverendZ]

Middle of the third week. Latest update is the technician assigned to mine currently has another one torn down in his bay, waiting on parts, that are backordered, before they can even start on mine. I just emailed Jeep cares about ordering my own replacement engine and having another dealer r&r it and then send the bill to the offending dealer. I'm sure the tech is super happy having one of their bays tied up with something for an unspecified amount of time losing money. So the saga continues.

 

[ReverendZ]

236 days or 7months 22 days since I initially notified the dealer of the overfill, 82 days since they dropped the pan and found metal shavings, 18 days since I left it with them and it has not even been looked at, almost zero communication from the service department about what's going on, where the holdup is, excuses given to me and to my jeep cares representative, lack of any sense of urgency or follow through. I told the management team over there last night to find me a similarly equipped Gobi and we can talk about next steps or I am going to order the engine and replace it and bill them...
Why has customer service gotten to the point where you have to become a huge a** in order for anything to get done.

 

[Maximus Gladius]

Sounds like you need to write the President/CEO/Chairman of Stellantis and take it up with the top dog. I’ve done it. PM me

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As some of you know, my first engine was consuming 10-12 ounces of coolant in 10k km period and FCA engineer, NORM had no problem with this, “it’s normal” I’m told.

I remember that - mine still hasn't budged since the initial drop in the first month or so. It's now settled to the point it's not dropping visibly. almost 9,000 miles and it's gone down maybe 2 or 3 ounces or so since I first saw the truck.
My 2020 went through 8 ounces from the time it was brand new to 27,000 miles. Most of that was in the first few thousand.

Anyway, I’m coming back from BC and the engine is just running hotter than I’ve been used to and I call the service manager to inform him of the temps I’m seeing. Temps are high to me, pressure is strong. ??IDK, no alarm bells went off for the service manager and I kept my eye on it. It did feel under powered too.

I was burning no oil. Engine ran smooth and quiet.

Then I got home, drained the oil and shit my pants! The oil just kept pouring out!! WHAT THE F@$k!!!?? The catch pan almost overfilled!
I poured out 12 quarts and called the service manager at home and showed him photos.

I took off the air box and air tube to the throttle body and took photos. Everything was swimming in oil. MAF sensor soaked. I was devastated and truck went in the next morning and had the intake, coils, plugs taken off and cleaned or replaced.

The coolant temp doesn't bother me a bit - I see that even on cooler days. It's almost as if it's trying to balance something out and now and then runs over 220, then drops back down to the 190s. My coolant temps bounce around a lot. 195 to 220 even a bit higher.
I don't care for your oil temperatures if that's not a hot day and you aren't towing.
Oil in the intake of course as you know - when it's too full oil is flung around everywhere and now you have air in the crankcase that's like someone took a sprayer and kept spraying oil mist into the air. The PCV tries to evacuate the air and gets all that oil with it. To me that's one if the bigger nasty side effects of WAY too much oil (talking more than a quart over-full) - all of the oil mist ni the air in the crankcase. It's going to get into the intake via the PCV. I bet you'd have filled a catch can in a few hundred miles - or less!

Not sure what RPM you were running at to see the OP over 70. Mine will run over 70 a lot around here when it's cool or cold and I'm on the highway (because mine will run 3,000 rpm or more around here in the hills, the wind, and cold weather) so I see pressures up there.

The oil pump picks up oil from the bottom of the sump. Tube with screen down there.
The pump pulls up the oil and pushes it out into the engine (through filter, etc.)
Pressure is controlled by a relief valve. In legacy engines it's a spring loaded shuttle valve. The spring is calibrated for something like 80 psi. So when the pump pushes the volume of oil against the resistance of the oil galleries, bearings and such, if the pressure is enough to overcome the power of that spring, it pushes the shuttle open against spring pressure and the oil dumps back into the sump.
If the pump is in low volume mode, it can't push enough oil to build high pressure. These may have a solenoid controlled pressure relief - I'd have to look into that.........
If the pump is in high volume mode - the displacement of the pump is actually changed to allow it to pull in more oil and push out more oil. Pumps pump volume - they don't pump pressure.
So if the pressure is high, there's a pressure relief issue.
The oil galleries don't change size and shape, the bearings don't suddenly get tighter, the cams don't suddenly fit tighter in the bearings in the heads causing more resistance or restrictions to the oil leaking out. (what oil did they put in it? maybe 10w40? LOL)
The oil pump spins the same speed, it's volume is set either to high output or low output based on engine RPM. So it's going to put out the same amount of oil no matter how much is available to pick up out of the sump. That's the goofy part - with a closed hydraulic system, it won't matter if the reservoir is 100 gallons or 10 gallons, the pump pumps the same volume. It pushes against the same parts.

Underpowered I can see for sure - you have that crankshaft having to whip through oil and not air. Imagine rowing a boat - the deeper your oars are in the water, the harder you work. Pull them up half out of the water, a lot easier.

Rather surprised you didn't mess with the converters - oil soaking them. If there was oil on the spark plugs, it's got to go out the exhaust. You won't smell it so much like in a 1980s engine, but it's going somewhere. Can't have spark plugs oil soaked but the rest of the chamber dry.

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