Diesel cooling options and ideas

[Glad_he_ate]

I looked at those but went with this.

Sponsored

 

[wv_gladiator]

Hey Jeep engineers, make us a remote oil cooler and put a regular oil filter on so we can get rid of the funky oil filter.

 

[PJZ]

I looked at those but went with this.

Would definitely like to have this type of set up. Planning to tow some with mine.

 

[ArmyMP]

Would definitely like to have this type of set up. Planning to tow some with mine.

Wonder if this would fit in or under the factory bumper

 

[ZoneArc]

Few notes:
- Not enough room to mount the oil coolers on top of the engine between that and the hood. Passive at the radiator or active at the bed seems like your best bet. I reduced oil temps by 10 degrees using a passive oil cooler and external oil filter. I could upgrade to an active cooler, but the problem is that right now we don't have an oil pump setup to cycle oil fast. The best we can do is tap in to the factory oil filter using a filter cap. That cycles 3G of Oil per minute, which is something, but we would need to cycle a lot more to get to the 30 degree drop we need. To do that you need to double oil capacity and add an active pump directly to the block or oil pan. There is no such solution at the moment.

- Removing the hood lowers EGTs by a little, so a better hood might help a little but it won't be much and you'll have spent a lot of $ for a couple degree change. You can replicate what DV8 does by doing the Rubicon hood louver kit which opens it up and gets you more air. Cheaper and the same effect. However, it's not really worth the $.

- Cutting the rubber trim around the air intake helps. So, does a snorkel. If you wheel it, do the snorkel and not cut the rubber trim. That lets in more water than the drain can handle and ruins the filter fast. The Hauk kit is nice .. lower profile and you don't look like a Tacoma.

-Removing Fenders and getting vented fenders shows no noticeable gain. We've had forum members that performed intense testing by removing both outer and inner fenders, the grill, front bumper, and hood and so negligible drops in temps.

 

[Glad_he_ate]

Info on my cooler install here https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...r-and-cooler-install.54743/page-3#post-931999

 

[Zybane]

Comments about cooling problems, yet has large light right in front of radiator stifling airflow lol.

Don't put anything in front of a JT radiator...

 

[PJZ]

Was looking under the JT and see the two bungs that are at the bottom of the oil filter/cooler assembly. Think someone asked this question somewhere in the 30+ pages, but can those be used to run the external cooler like @Glad_he_ate did, but without using the insane diesel bypass set up?

From the part pic it looks like the bungs align to the oil line channels in the body. Might buy the whole assembly and look at what is going on there.

Not my expertise so maybe an engineer on her can weigh in if it might be possible.

Engine Oil Filter Housing - Mopar (68566093AA)

 

[Rusty PW]

Well...............I was think if this plate fits. We're golden. https://noecodelete.com/product/auxiliary-oil-cooler-adapter-plate/

Then all we need is one of these. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/irp-fsm-165

And finish it with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Setrab-ProLine-Engine-Oil-Cooler-Ports/dp/B00TO66N2K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=BDLJJDR0OH96&keywords=setrab+oil+cooler&qid=1650753804&sprefix=,aps,176&sr=8-4&th=1

Hose and fitting of your choice.

 

[PJZ]

Would you still need the plate?

 

[NC_Overland]

I’m not trying to be a dick, but I’d be so pissed it I bought a new vehicle, especially one this expensive, and had to spend this much time, energy, and money to come up with a solution when it’s due to the manufacturer’s flawed design. Then on top of it, they don’t appear to be working on any fixes. That’s just not ok.

 

[Rusty PW]

Would you still need the plate?

That adapter plate replaces the factory water to oil cooler. The 2 big holes are oil out and oil in. The smaller hole, I don't know yet.

 

[Rusty PW]

I’m not trying to be a dick, but I’d be so pissed it I bought a new vehicle, especially one this expensive, and had to spend this much time, energy, and money to come up with a solution when it’s due to the manufacturer’s flawed design. Then on top of it, they don’t appear to be working on any fixes. That’s just not ok.

A lot of the newer cars suffers from high oil temps when pushed and they derate. 370Z's, Vette's, Mustangs. I have a 370Z Nismo with a 34 row cooler on it when it was still N/A. Before the cooler, on the street. I could see temps high as 250F. On the track, 280F. With the cooler. 160 to 200 street. Track around 225.

 

[Glad_he_ate]

I’m not trying to be a dick, but I’d be so pissed it I bought a new vehicle, especially one this expensive, and had to spend this much time, energy, and money to come up with a solution when it’s due to the manufacturer’s flawed design. Then on top of it, they don’t appear to be working on any fixes. That’s just not ok.

I agree with this 100 percent. If I were actually having derate issues I’d me mad. Really mad. Don’t get me wrong I put probably 1500 into solving an issue that should not have been an issue and actually for me was not a real issue. For what it’s worth my cooling setup worked as well as I could hope. However I might down the line still add a cerc pump tapped off the pan. I can guarantee that if I draw oil from the pan cool it and return it to the filler neck I can keep the oil at or below 215. But I didn’t get above 240 in my trip from ny to sc. and didn’t have any issues holding speed. Still this could and should have been addressed in preproduction r&d idk why they went with that oil to coolant system instead of an air oil cooler. I would imagine that one more small radiator would have been cheaper and more efficient at cooling the oil. There is room for one obviously as I installed one lol. However I still am not done. My install guy should have flipped the cooler. He has it sucking from the bottom and blowing toward the trim piece behind the bumper. I would have preferred to have it pull air down from behind the bumper after removing trim piece. And when I have more time that’s probably how it’ll end up. If I decide to add a cerc pump I’ll post that up in my bypass filter thread.

 

[NC_Overland]

A lot of the newer cars suffers from high oil temps when pushed and they derate. 370Z's, Vette's, Mustangs. I have a 370Z Nismo with a 34 row cooler on it when it was still N/A. Before the cooler, on the street. I could see temps high as 250F. On the track, 280F. With the cooler. 160 to 200 street. Track around 225.

Ok but a diesel gladiator does it when driving up a damn hill. It’s not acceptable. Don’t make excuses for the manufacturer’s flawed design.

As far as VQ engines go, I pushed my 4.0 VQ hard towing at high altitude and wheeling it hard all day long in 4low up at the tree line. It never missed a beat. The worst that ever happened was I had to take it easy on the brakes on the way home because they’d already had a work out all day long because of heavy use of their ABLS system and high altitude it hard on brakes also.

Sponsored