Flush Mount Tail Lights

[JP_Oracle]

Ok here you go. Some things I have read that I will address

- It was super easy to clip the plugs in.
- Fitment on the Oracles ended up better than factory
- I didn't have double sided tape on my resistors (Oracle QC issue) but I didn't need them
- You really gotta push the lights firm, the metal posts are tight fitting.
- Tighten most of the way and then push very firmly to tighten fully. May need to push top and bottom separately but it will go
- I could use some extra speed clips, I think I may have overtorqued one.
- Coming from halogen the resistors did work just fine, but my reverse lights didn't stay lit, they flashed.
- JScan fixed everything up when turning to LED with removal of resistor
- No nannybots to worry about, tape up that harness and the resistor harness
- I have no idea what y'all are talking about with the screw hitting and rubbing paint

Factory light gap, my punch tool fits inside the inner portion

half the size on front

There is PLENTY of slack to work with if you pop the harness off the top retainer

... on both sides

... tape and tie the leftover harnesses I didn't need

Fitment after about the same on leading edge

Fitment better on tailgate side

Oracle QC... resistors with no tape

Side view after isn't junk in the trunk with the Motobilt bumper

These are the JScan items I set to 'active' and works fine with no resistor, no warnings, and the reverse lights stay lit.

Great write up here. Thank you!

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[JP_Oracle]

You shouldn't need to reprogram or use the resistor that comes with the new Oracle lights, but I think I've seen a few posts where people who had factory LED are still having issues after changing to these Oracle tails. It may be due to these LED tail lights drawing a slightly different electrical load than the Oracles and the vehicle seeing that, but that's just guessing at this point.

This is correct!

 

[JRobes]

@JP_Oracle, so for those of us with factory halogens, are we still going to have reverse light flickering/issues even if we use the resistors? If this is the case I'll be sending mine back, I'm unfortunately not interested in using programmers until I'm out of warranty.

 

[JP_Oracle]

@JP_Oracle, so for those of us with factory halogens, are we still going to have reverse light flickering/issues even if we use the resistors? If this is the case I'll be sending mine back, I'm unfortunately not interested in using programmers until I'm out of warranty.

If flickering or shutting down occurs with the reverse lights in use along with the tails, & you're using the P&P harness, the best way to eliminate this without the use of a programmer will be to tap each reverse light into the wiring on it's respective side per the instructions in the reverse light install video. This will evenly distribute the load between the two tails.

The resistors have nothing to do with the reverse light portion of the tails. The resistor is connected between the stop/turn wire and ground. This is solely to circumvent bulb out warning for signals.

 

[JP_Oracle]

For anyone curious what setting needs to be changed in the Tazer, I grabbed this from the Tazer Mini User Manual

 

[MrFahrenheit]

Not going to lie, it's pretty disappointing to learn that a person would have to spend hundreds of more dollars to make these function if you have the factory LED package. They are billed as 'plug and play' and that they 'Works with base and LED packages'.

I don't know anyone that would say they installed these and now have warning lights coming from the vehicle and say this is plug and play or working properly. It's one thing for someone that modifies their vehicle a lot to accept that but I would ask if it would pass the 'Wife test'? Install them and then have her get in, see the warning lights come on, then try to explain to her that you spent 300+ dollars on these lights just so the Jeep displays warning messages. Then explain that you need to spend a few hundred more dollars on another device to get these warning lights off. You'll look/sound like a damn fool.

 

[JP_Oracle]

Not going to lie, it's pretty disappointing to learn that a person would have to spend hundreds of more dollars to make these function if you have the factory LED package. They are billed as 'plug and play' and that they 'Works with base and LED packages'.

I don't know anyone that would say they installed these and now have warning lights coming from the vehicle and say this is plug and play or working properly. It's one thing for someone that modifies their vehicle a lot to accept that but I would ask if it would pass the 'Wife test'? Install them and then have her get in, see the warning lights come on, then try to explain to her that you spent 300+ dollars on these lights just so the Jeep displays warning messages. Then explain that you need to spend a few hundred more dollars on another device to get these warning lights off. You'll look/sound like a damn fool.

Mike,

I highlighted a workaround above for anyone who doesn't want to use a programmer. Please read that.

The programmer is simply an easier work around. It's also killing 2 birds with one stone if you ever plan to lift and do bigger tires as you'll need to calibrate the speedo.

The fact in the matter here, is that this doesn't occur on EVERY LED equipped Jeep. Why that is, we don't know and cannot get the data from FCA to find out why.

We tested the flush tails, along with the reverse lights with the P&P harness on our own 2021 Rubi with complete LED package & Sensors, & no programmer and had zero issues or errors.

Hope this clears up your disappointment.

 

[MrFahrenheit]

Mike,

I highlighted a workaround above for anyone who doesn't want to use a programmer. Please read that.

The programmer is simply an easier work around. It's also killing 2 birds with one stone if you ever plan to lift and do bigger tires as you'll need to calibrate the speedo.

The fact in the matter here, is that this doesn't occur on EVERY LED equipped Jeep. Why that is, we don't know and cannot get the data from FCA to find out why.

We tested the flush tails, along with the reverse lights with the P&P harness on our own 2021 Rubi with complete LED package & Sensors, & no programmer and had zero issues or errors.

Hope this clears up your disappointment.

Wasn't the work around for flickering versus the bulb out messages? Maybe they are the same and I just don't realize?

Seems like it might be tough to track down why some have the issue and others don't. Maybe some combination of options? Who knows. Hopefully that can be figured out with time.

My concern for those that have the issue on a LED equipped jeep and use the Tazer to fix it is that I've been told people should restore factory settings and unmarry the Tazer when taking the vehicle in for service. if they do that and get those messages back would it just create more fodder for some dealers to deny service? (rhetorical question). Woe is the life of modifying a vehicle still under factory warranty.

Mine arrive today, and I love the look and it won't stop me from installing or using. But there will definitely be people out there that have no need for a Tazer because they don't have any desire to do other mods that might make having a Tazer more useful.

 

[Rockabillyroy]

It sounds like there's a little bit of a mix up going on. When you guys say reverse light, are you referring to the separate lights that are sold that fit into the factory bumper reflector area?
Are people saying that light is going out when used with these tail lamps?
Or that the reverse function of the tail lamp is going out?

 

[JP_Oracle]

Wasn't the work around for flickering versus the bulb out messages? Maybe they are the same and I just don't realize?

Seems like it might be tough to track down why some have the issue and others don't. Maybe some combination of options? Who knows. Hopefully that can be figured out with time.

My concern for those that have the issue on a LED equipped jeep and use the Tazer to fix it is that I've been told people should restore factory settings and unmarry the Tazer when taking the vehicle in for service. if they do that and get those messages back would it just create more fodder for some dealers to deny service? (rhetorical question). Woe is the life of modifying a vehicle still under factory warranty.

Mine arrive today, and I love the look and it won't stop me from installing or using. But there will definitely be people out there that have no need for a Tazer because they don't have any desire to do other mods that might make having a Tazer more useful.

Correct, unmarrying the programmer before taking in for service is definitely recommended as the dealer can deny future warranty services if it's there. Unmarrying takes all of 5min, so not a big deal for most users who need it.

Yes, when unmarrying, the DTCs will come back, but the dealer will see that and likely just notify you that it's present and it's because of the aftermarket tails, then continue to perform whatever service you brought it in for.

 

[JP_Oracle]

Lots of back & forth here so I'm going to summarize from my earlier posts just for the sake of combining in hopes that it's a useful resource for any of you:

• Halogen Equipped Jeeps - Uses the included resistor - No errors/DTCs should occur
  • If you do not wish to use the resistors & have a Tazer or programmer installed - You can set for aftermarket tails to avoid signal out error / DTC
• LED Equipped Jeeps - Remove included resistor & swap over cross traffic sensor if equipped
  • Some LED Equipped Jeeps may still show a bulb out warning after doing this - Programmer such as Tazer or JSCAN can be used to set for aftermarket tails - This essentially tells the ECU to stop checking for the OEM load values at the tails (This doesn't occur on EVERY LED equipped Jeep.)
  • This is not exclusive to just ORACLE lights. The systems responsible for sensing errors throughout the vehicle are proprietary to FCA - Noone has the data to circumvent this.
• Using with ORACLE Bumper Reverse Lights (PN# 5878-504) - If P&P harness is in use & reverse light flickering / shutting down occurs you can do one of two things:
  • Use programmer such as Tazer or JSCAN to set aftermarket tails - This essentially tells the ECU to stop checking for the OEM load values at the tails (Reverse Lights included)
  • Remove the P&P Harness & tap each bumper reverse light into it's respective side tail to evenly distribute the load between the two, rather than combining the load at one tail

I hope this helps. As always, happy to answer any questions here or via PM.

 

[just_another_guy]

Installed mine today in my halogen-equiped truck and don't seem to have any performance issues with flickering or the reverse lights. Wish the fitment was a little better (gap doesn't match the contour of the truck) but man it looks so much better than the stock lights. Even my wife loves them, and she normally couldn't care less about something like this.

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Great write up here. Thank you!

I'm realizing now that the last one on the JScan app may actually be for the third brake light on the tailgate so I have to put that back to halogen

 

[j.o.y.ride]

Installed mine today in my halogen-equiped truck and don't seem to have any performance issues with flickering or the reverse lights. Wish the fitment was a little better (gap doesn't match the contour of the truck) but man it looks so much better than the stock lights. Even my wife loves them, and she normally couldn't care less about something like this.

You really have to press on them, if you do the fitment is actually better than stock. The earlier post where I noticed the persons top bolt was set back about 1/2" from the original spot tells me it wasn't pushed on to get it set. Push them into place, tighten to 80%, check fit and press again as you tighten.

 

[just_another_guy]

You really have to press on them, if you do the fitment is actually better than stock.

I tried that several times, it's just a different contour than the bed of the truck. If it was pressed into the body panel hard enough to form it to the light I imagine it would wear the paint off the bedside.

It looks like the bed has a slight curve to it that the lights don't match, hence the gap at the top & bottom. I'm happy with the overall appearance of the light, but this gap doesn't look great.

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