Get creative challenge. Bye bye push to start button.

[WILDHOBO]

Oh I know, it's an awful idea on many fronts. Homie is best served buying a 15-20 year old ford ranger with the $10k it's would cost to make his gladiator worse.

And good to know about TPMS... I got 4 from Costco that currently do not work because their systems can't train 22's (and the 2nd half 21's)



haha no, just a huge fan of the movie

Me too. Fantastic.

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[In3briatedPanda]

even if you did somehow install a cylinder to make it a key, you have to by-pass the transponder.

easiest way to do that, remove it from you key and ziptie/glue it to the key ECU. Means anyone can start the vehicle too......

Ive done this with a nissan turn key, not my gladiator.

i did not read 12 pages, just throwing out an idea.

even a key cylinder is just a switch you would have to wire in accordance to how the push button works.

the car doesnt care about how it gets the signal, just that the signal is sent to crank the vehicle.

Good luck!

 

[eeTwidget]

Okay I have an idea but it’s not well thought out so probably won’t work.

1) don’t try to eliminate the fob, it’s just not worth the effort. Instead… take the FOB apart, remove the battery. Utilize a small buck power supply to directly power the FOB from truck battery.
2) use a relay or flip-flop to interrupt the power supply input.
3) Install a key that activates the relay/flip-flop
3) Turn the key to power on the “fob”, press the start button to start the Jeep as normal

—-
Although you’re not eliminating the NFC you are at least eliminating its battery dependence. Although not technically.

Disconnecting the power entirely from the now installed fob should take care of any issues with ‘fob left in car’ situation.

 

[NachoRuby]

Okay I have an idea but it’s not well thought out so probably won’t work.

1) don’t try to eliminate the fob, it’s just not worth the effort. Instead… take the FOB apart, remove the battery. Utilize a small buck power supply to directly power the FOB from truck battery.
2) use a relay or flip-flop to interrupt the power supply input.
3) Install a key that activates the relay/flip-flop
3) Turn the key to power on the “fob”, press the start button to start the Jeep as normal

—-
Although you’re not eliminating the NFC you are at least eliminating its battery dependence. Although not technically.

Disconnecting the power entirely from the now installed fob should take care of any issues with ‘fob left in car’ situation.

Op wants the NFC completely gone from the equation. No fob whatsoever, no NFC in the Jeep.

 

[eeTwidget]

Op wants the NFC completely gone from the equation. No fob whatsoever, no NFC in the Jeep.

Yes, but that’s not going to happen.

I could build this, pot it in a black box, sell it to the guy and he wouldn’t know any better. It happens everyday. A majority of people, although “tech savvy”, don’t have any idea how stuff actually works. .. this thread is a good example.

 

[sharpsicle]

Yes, but that’s not going to happen.

I could build this, pot it in a black box, sell it to the guy and he wouldn’t know any better. It happens everyday. A majority of people, although “tech savvy”, don’t have any idea how stuff actually works. .. this thread is a good example.

I kinda like this.

"send me your key and I'll send you a box that disables your proximity key system!" ...not knowing that it's just a box with a key in it sending the same signal anyway.

 

[endurojeep]

You could always sharpen the key in the fob and double duty it as a pocket knife then it wouldn't be as cumbersome

 

[mtudb24]

Basically what I've been trying in my lame ways, to get across. This isn't a cut here, tap here, run these wires to a 1980 Camaro switch and you are golden.
The modules work together, it's not one "box" dealing with it.
I've been saying this has been engineered from the ground up with teams of engineers, not one person, and not taking a legacy system and converting it. It's a system that is far greater and more complex than any of the individual parts and you can't change a single part without freaking out the rest of the system.

Look at the people who have disabled their trucks by hitting the wrong wire with a screw or installing those retracting steps - one miss, truck is dead, and those wires weren't even in the engine bay.

I'm going to bet that some of the technology and specifics are held pretty close to the chest....... for more than one reason.

SPOT ON Papa!!!!!!

 

[Challenger85]

12 pages now? Impressive. As someone who does electrical work, I appreciate the want to learn and accomplish things. But this is so far fetched it’s not even funny. People far smarter than you designed this with proprietary systems and software. You’re not going to google how this system works or any relevant information ne

People steal these vehicles by duplicating the key fob signal. That should be a big enough red flag to know the fob is required.

I‘m still just so confused someone wants to waste so much time and money over a key fob.

 

[chorky]

Appreciate the response though. Thanks for the convo. I'm probably on an island of one here.

I honestly hated the idea of push to start being the only option as well. But being old school it bothered me that there was not a 'backup' method (key) to start the vehicle in case the fob battery died. Then, however, I was informed that the fob may die, but the chip is not powered by the same batteries as the fob, and thus it 'never' dies. I even passed up on ordering the proximity option when ordering my max tow - now though that I have the Rubi with proximity....its actually quite handy. Just wish it would also open rear doors not just the drivers. My enjoyment of it just means I'm being lazier the older I get hahaha

however, being lazy and only reading page 1 and 12, I will say there is one, and really only one, situation where I am not a fan of the fob. Not quite sure if this is actually true or not but I was informed that if the fob got soaked (as in fell in a river or something) that it probably would not work. For "Jeep people" (typically associated with being outside, exploring, camping, etc) this could present a problem. I dont know if this is really true, and I plan to not find out by putting my fob in a ziplock bag whenever I'm in a situation where it could get wet. Just to be safe. Like others said anymore these days anything can be stolen and crime is on the rise... its lame. but a key ignition isn't any easier or harder to steel than our Glad's

 

[sharpsicle]

...I have the Rubi with proximity....its actually quite handy. Just wish it would also open rear doors not just the drivers...

A bit off-topic here, but if you're talking about the proximity entry, there should be a setting in the radio that allows you to change it to "All Doors". It's under the "Doors & Locks" section of the Uconnect settings. I set this to "Unlock All on 1st Press", so when I grab the driver's handle, all doors (including the tailgate) unlock.

EDIT: The "Note" sucks. The first line should say "If the vehicle is programmed with "Unlock All Doors on 1st Press", all doors will unlock no matter which Passive Entry equipped door handle is grasped." That's what you're looking for.

 

[IslandFalconer]

Given how the safety interlock system works, how the IGnition/pushbutyon handshakes/verifies your key, than tells The ECM to allow the start. And also verifies a few other security features and interlocks, I’m not entirely sure this will be easy, it will require some pretty nifty programming skills. But you could probably retrofit the fob style key start system. You’ll need to figure out all the plastic behind the dash, get the Can network to accept whatever key identifier system you choose. I’m not sure why go through all this effort over a button but for $5/7000 I’m sure it’s doable

A bit off-topic here, but if you're talking about the proximity entry, there should be a setting in the radio that allows you to change it to "All Doors". It's under the "Doors & Locks" section of the Uconnect settings. I set this to "Unlock All on 1st Press", so when I grab the driver's handle, all doors (including the tailgate) unlock.

EDIT: The "Note" sucks. The first line should say "If the vehicle is programmed with "Unlock All Doors on 1st Press", all doors will unlock no matter which Passive Entry equipped door handle is grasped." That's what you're looking for.

I think what he means is the front door handles are the only ones with the feature. It drives me crazy too. I have proximity key but need to touch the front handle to unlock the rear doors, if my hands have something in them it’s already a PIA and now I have to touch one handle just to open the other

 

[Rusty PW]

Ever feel like you have been trolled??? And everyone jumped on the wagon?

 

[ImThe0ne]

Ever feel like you have been trolled??? And everyone jumped on the wagon?

I thought it was weird that OP was ready to devote his life to figuring out how to do it but seemingly hadn't bothered to read anything on modern CAN bus systems, electrical wiring, ECU coding, etc prior to making this thread. I think he was ready to be morale support for somebody that knows about electrical vehicular systems to do the leg work?

 

[Stratus109]

12 pages deep. This is what modern “jeepers” talk about? Congrats yall have successfully destroyed the brand.

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