Gladiator Max Tow vs Non Max tow option rip out

[Stan H]

We need a source to confirm this.

Until then, I think Hootbro is correct.

Well that tears it I am gonna go get my Big cut off wheel on my Grinder and cut my axle tube in half....lol

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[dayusmc]

Well that tears it I am gonna go get my Big cut off wheel on my Grinder and cut my axle tube in half....lol

Just use that Flex Seal tape they have on TV to put it back together...

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Well that tears it I am gonna go get my Big cut off wheel on my Grinder and cut my axle tube in half....lol

I suppose that would prove it. ?

I’d be good with a link from Dana or Jeep.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well that tears it I am gonna go get my Big cut off wheel on my Grinder and cut my axle tube in half....lol

First buy a roll of the handyman's secret weapon (see how many get that one)

 

[Hootbro]

Well that tears it I am gonna go get my Big cut off wheel on my Grinder and cut my axle tube in half....lol

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Being a very curious person............ I took my calipers and did a quick measure of the front axle tubes, and the rear axle tubes on my Overland.
One must keep in mind that the axle tubes are turned down to fit into the differential housing so they have sort of a taper in that last inch next to the cast housing.

Front axle tubes -

Rear axle tubes - (now if i could just remember my machine shop days and how to read this bloody darned thing)

Someone at one time said their axle tubes were bigger because the bearing or seal wasn't the right fit or something - the bearing and seal don't even go into the axle tube at all - they fit into another casting on the end of the axle tube - which could be the same on all of these.
I have yet to see one where the bearing and seal fit directly into the axle tube - unless considering the INNER axle seal on the old AMC 15 and 20 axles.......
Bearings and seals go in here - not in the axle tube itself. Since this is a cast (or perhaps forged?) part, it isn't necessarily indicative of the size (wall thickness) of the axle tube itself.

 

[Stan H]

Being a very curious person............ I took my calipers and did a quick measure of the front axle tubes, and the rear axle tubes on my Overland.
One must keep in mind that the axle tubes are turned down to fit into the differential housing so they have sort of a taper in that last inch next to the cast housing.

Front axle tubes -

Rear axle tubes - (now if i could just remember my machine shop days and how to read this bloody darned thing)

Someone at one time said their axle tubes were bigger because the bearing or seal wasn't the right fit or something - the bearing and seal don't even go into the axle tube at all - they fit into another casting on the end of the axle tube - which could be the same on all of these.
I have yet to see one where the bearing and seal fit directly into the axle tube - unless considering the INNER axle seal on the old AMC 15 and 20 axles.......
Bearings and seals go in here - not in the axle tube itself. Since this is a cast (or perhaps forged?) part, it isn't necessarily indicative of the size (wall thickness) of the axle tube itself.

2.2 & 2.6 ?

 

[Hootbro]

2.2 & 2.6 ?

He could have converted it but I think it is the upper scale on his vernier caliper. I get roughly with some slight decimal rounding of 70mm and 80mm after conversion.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I posted that, full disclosure, for multiple reasons:
I am very curious as to whether or not the OD is the same on JT vs. JLU and I was curious about the difference between front and rear and other stuff
and
I wanted to show the tool that gave your brake caliper its name:

(as well as the other caliper seen in the images)
and
I was hoping someone really smart like @Hootbro who constantly blows me away with their knowledge (there are others here, of course, with that caliber of knowledge and intelligence) would remind me how to read my @#$% vernier caliper!

I got roughly the high side of 3 9/64" on the rears - it's just to the right of center between 3 4/32 and 3 5/32 making it just over 3 9/64 but I'll be danged, after my machine shop classes, learning these things in college and then using 'em for a while after that - I just don't use one enough to recall (and I'll blame the anti-headache drug, which has really nasty side effects)
This also has a thousandths of an inch scale (lower scale - might be able to click the pic to get a better look)

Rear -

Front -

So I admit - forgot totally how to read the thing.
I could have gotten out my big micrometer set and pulled the 3 and 4 inch mics out but on a not really smooth tube, I figured the outside caliper would get "close enough".
Don't do so much engine building these days so the big micrometers are buried a bit. I only have the 1 and 2 inch ones handy in a drawer.

 

[Kevin_D]

Rear -

3.125 + 0.020= 3.145

You can tell it's just under 3.150, so you find the number most closely aligned on the lower scale with a graduation on the upper scale, which is 20 (it might be 21 or 22: hard to tell with parallax.)

Kevin

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I just measured mine which is a High Altitude with the wide axles.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

3.125 + 0.020= 3.145

You can tell it's just under 3.150, so you find the number most closely aligned on the lower scale with a graduation on the upper scale, which is 20 (it might be 21 or 22: hard to tell with parallax.)

Kevin

Thanks for that.
Grabbed another shot - 21 looks better - but then that's picking nits when we're at the ten thousandths place measuring a used outside dimension.

3.146 = ~ 79.91mm

Ryan's -
3.175 =~ 80.65mm

So really we're inside a margin of error - not even 1mm apart.
My using outside calipers and then transferring to vernier caliper could account for some of that. Time to dig the mic out, perhaps LOL

Ryan's front axle tube -
2.78 = ~ 70.7mm

Mine -
2.759? = ~ 70.08mm

Fractions of a mm apart and within margins of error when transferring from one caliper to another.

Unless someone has other thoughts, I'd say it looks like the outer dimensions are the same?

 

[ygrignon]

More current Max tows will have an additional shock on top of the rear pumpkin

Interesting. First time I hear about this. Anybody know how much extra support this provides and if that can be retrofitted onto earlier max tows or probably any other gladiator?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Interesting. First time I hear about this. Anybody know how much extra support this provides and if that can be retrofitted onto earlier max tows or probably any other gladiator?

It doesn't provide any extra support at all (in fact, no shock supports a vehicle)
It's for wheel hop, that's it. Axle wind-up and release under certain circumstances.
It doesn't do anything other than help prevent wheel hop.
It won't improve towing, payload or anything else.
If you don't experience wheel hop, it's not going to do much of anything.

 

[Kevin_D]

Interesting. First time I hear about this. Anybody know how much extra support this provides and if that can be retrofitted onto earlier max tows or probably any other gladiator?

Only the manual transmission Gladiators have that, "Extra," shock.

Kevin

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