HELP Lift kit

[Spaceman2801]

I’m looking to install a lift kit on my 2026 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon. I’m new to the off-road community and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I’m not trying to break the bank, but I’d like something that’s reliable and performs well. Thanks in advance!

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[Bandit’s Lair]

Read, research, figure out what you need. There are hundreds if not thousands of threads in here on lifts in the suspension section.

Talk to wheelers in your area. San Diego 4x4 has a lot of experienced people that can point you in the right direction.

Talk to a couple shops and see what they usually install and why they use the kits they use.

The kit I suggest may be the total wrong thing for you and your goals. It’s all personal preference.

 

[GrubbyBaja]

Define the purpose of your lift (mall crawler, rock crawler, etc.), establish end result (there is no "end"), establish budget, research components, then ask your question again. For reference, I just installed a 1-1/2" leveling kit (see my recent post) and now my tires are too small...

 

[Commodus]

I’m looking to install a lift kit on my 2026 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon. I’m new to the off-road community and was wondering if anyone has any suggestions. I’m not trying to break the bank, but I’d like something that’s reliable and performs well. Thanks in advance!

You definitely need to know what you are intending to use your vehicle for before you start modifying. I suggest you run it stock first I do believe in buy once cry once model. Take it out with a club and see what you need there are a few clubs that run trails for stock vehicles. San Diego Jeep club and Geared4fun in North county are a couple I belong to and both have great people to help and share advice I have had mine 6 years now and instead of lifting ( which can bring it’s own problems) I just added a lot of skid plates which has worked well for the trails I go on with the clubs

 

[azmojave]

Cheap, reliable, performs well. Pick any two

 

[VA6489]

What is you idea of performs well?

In my experience, if you are going to lift you rig you are looking at a bill of $10-$15K
to do it right. This includes gearing, tires and wheels and suspension.

My recommendation not knowing what you goal is, look at long arm systems, not cheap but big on performance and drivability. Stay away from radius arm front suspensions for street use. Artec, Rock Krawler, EVO are all solid companies in the long arm game. Look for rebuildable joints. Johnny Joint is the most common joint. Don't forget upgrading the track bar(s) to a forged style unit.

Shocks, Look at a custom tuned rebuildable shocks. King is the first one that comes to mind. No they are not cheap but they are the last shock you will need to buy due to being rebuildable. Note custom tuning, questions they will ask, what is you driving style? What will the rig primarily be used for? What is the weight of the rig? Remember if they just come "pre tuned" they are likely not best suited for you style and application.

Steering. The OEM steering is relatively junk on Jeeps. Thin wall tubing flexes under load on stock tires and geometry. Once lifted this issue become much worse. Upgrade all the steering gear to high quality stuff. I have had great success of 7071 aluminum tie rods and Drag Links. Ball joints will need attention as well. Dyna trac is the best on the market. Been running them in everything I own for decades. They are serviceable and rebuildable ( I have yet to rebuild one even after 150K miles.), Throw the OEM alignment spec to the wind. Caster set to 7*+ tow to 1/16-1/8 in.

Aftermarket wheels pay attention to back spacing as is changes scrub radius. What is Scrub radius? ( Google search ). The front wheels are designed to have minimal to zero scrub radius if the radius is changed moving the center of the wheel out or in, it changes how the vehicle react to bumps.

Gearing , you are no doubt going to bigger tires, this necessitates a gearing change to maintain performance.

So you just read this and said holy crap that is a lot...... yup, it is . change one thing and it effects everything else. You get what you pay for, yes you can go cheap and get "the look" . if you do not understand how a vehicle should drive then you will be relatively happy until you get in a well designed and performing rig.

Shop around and do a little research off the public forums ( 80% opinion not based in facts).

Couple more questions:
1) what is the goal for the build? Show and Shine? Desert per runner? daily driver/weekend wheeler?
2) What is you budget? $10K, $15K, $20K? I started with $10,000 because unless you are building the suspension yourself that is a fair estimate for a low end system.
3) Are you a Buy once cry once type or are you a buy the cheapest to save money only to spend it again and again down the road?
4) Is a shop doing the work or are you? if a shop is doing the work, cost double , bottom figure is now $18-$20K for all.

Just some straight poop for you to consider. I build rigs and yes there are a lot of ill handling rigs out there.

Good luck with you build.

 

[ChrisNLA]

What is you idea of performs well?

In my experience, if you are going to lift you rig you are looking at a bill of $10-$15K
to do it right. This includes gearing, tires and wheels and suspension.

My recommendation not knowing what you goal is, look at long arm systems, not cheap but big on performance and drivability. Stay away from radius arm front suspensions for street use. Artec, Rock Krawler, EVO are all solid companies in the long arm game. Look for rebuildable joints. Johnny Joint is the most common joint. Don't forget upgrading the track bar(s) to a forged style unit.

Shocks, Look at a custom tuned rebuildable shocks. King is the first one that comes to mind. No they are not cheap but they are the last shock you will need to buy due to being rebuildable. Note custom tuning, questions they will ask, what is you driving style? What will the rig primarily be used for? What is the weight of the rig? Remember if they just come "pre tuned" they are likely not best suited for you style and application.

Steering. The OEM steering is relatively junk on Jeeps. Thin wall tubing flexes under load on stock tires and geometry. Once lifted this issue become much worse. Upgrade all the steering gear to high quality stuff. I have had great success of 7071 aluminum tie rods and Drag Links. Ball joints will need attention as well. Dyna trac is the best on the market. Been running them in everything I own for decades. They are serviceable and rebuildable ( I have yet to rebuild one even after 150K miles.), Throw the OEM alignment spec to the wind. Caster set to 7*+ tow to 1/16-1/8 in.

Aftermarket wheels pay attention to back spacing as is changes scrub radius. What is Scrub radius? ( Google search ). The front wheels are designed to have minimal to zero scrub radius if the radius is changed moving the center of the wheel out or in, it changes how the vehicle react to bumps.

Gearing , you are no doubt going to bigger tires, this necessitates a gearing change to maintain performance.

So you just read this and said holy crap that is a lot...... yup, it is . change one thing and it effects everything else. You get what you pay for, yes you can go cheap and get "the look" . if you do not understand how a vehicle should drive then you will be relatively happy until you get in a well designed and performing rig.

Shop around and do a little research off the public forums ( 80% opinion not based in facts).

Couple more questions:
1) what is the goal for the build? Show and Shine? Desert per runner? daily driver/weekend wheeler?
2) What is you budget? $10K, $15K, $20K? I started with $10,000 because unless you are building the suspension yourself that is a fair estimate for a low end system.
3) Are you a Buy once cry once type or are you a buy the cheapest to save money only to spend it again and again down the road?
4) Is a shop doing the work or are you? if a shop is doing the work, cost double , bottom figure is now $18-$20K for all.

Just some straight poop for you to consider. I build rigs and yes there are a lot of ill handling rigs out there.

Good luck with you build.

I know one thing - my idea and your idea of performs well are definitely in different tax brackets

Not saying you're wrong. That's about the route I'd go if money was a non issue.

Anywho, these guys have you on the right track. I ran Metalcloak gear as it was common in my area / circle, so it was nice to run stuff everyone had experience with. Your people / area may vary.

And use case will change it a lot. You can get by with a lot less driving to WalMart than driving to Rubicon Springs.

 

[Neomonk21]

When I'm ready to lift my Mojave, I'm going with Metalcloak. They are pricier than some options but I think their reputation speaks for itself. All of my previous Jeeps I've always done budget lifts. I never regretted it at the time but with my Gladiator I'm finally going to get a good lift.

 

[VA6489]

After rebuilding rig for folks for more than a few years. it is just my experience to save the new Jeepers some money and give them a product that they will be very happy with for years to come. Most folks do not look at the whole package when deciding to modify their rig.

What and how you will use it for are prime considerations on a direction to go.

The New Jeeper usual progression:

I bought a New Jeep!

-I want to lift it! buys a $2500 bolt on kit....

-Then the tires look too small..... $3500 of new wheel and tires....

problems begin.
- Death Wobble
- Wandering all over the road
- Fix with steering stabilizer(s)
- Death Wobble comes back.....
- take to Off road shop....Spend a bucket of money to fix....
- drive for a few more months then upgrade to better equipment....

in the end Drive what you have and modify what doesn't work for you looking at the complete package. Every modification impacts other components. In the end A realistic budget for a $65,000 Gladiator being $10-$15K is not a different tax bracket..... If it were a $2K SB XJ then I would agree with you. Just a builder/driver/owners prospective.

Good luck with your build.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Clayton Ride Right lifts are a great value for something in the $1,500-2,000 range.

You get everything you need at minimium. You can add parts later or run as is.

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