Rockabillyroy
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Issue with 3rd Brake Light
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azmojave
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Hooah. Thanks!
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Yes here's a link https://parts.allmoparparts.com/oem-parts/mopar-center-high-mounted-stop-lamp-68338388ac
It's currently in high demand so we will need about 10 days to get one.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks,
-Benny
azmojave
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Thanks. Ordered one this morning. Is there any warranty on this part?
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WhippetTaxi
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My third brake light was replaced under warranty last month. I didn't realize it was out until I failed Texas state inspection.
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Yes, All Mopar parts we sell carry a 2 year warranty honored at every dealer across the U.S.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
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MMMII
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Benny, are all JT center brake lights LEDs? Do non-Led optioned JTs have a different center brake light?
Benny, are all JT center brake lights LEDs? Do non-Led optioned JTs have a different center brake light?
Kevin_D
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They are all LED, There is only 1 part number used.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks,
-Benny
azmojave
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Replaced my light today and it works! Hopefully it stays that way. It was super easy, and only took me about 20 min. Saved me a ton of time and grief at the dealer. 
Mandrake
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Interesting how this thing works, the tailgate has two sets of wires. The round coax cable is for your video to the camera on the tailgate. It has a round connector. Then the flat connector is four wires. I figure two for the electric lock and two for the LED taillight.
My LED assemble went bad, quit working, failed state inspection. Annoyed.
Covered by warranty, and like Benny said above, long lead time. My dealer said about two to three weeks. I had to wait on the part.
In the meantime In Virginia you get a reject sticker, only good for 14 days ! You pay 20 bucks for reject, if part arrives outside 14 day window, you pay another $20 for them to re-inspect your vehicle. No exceptions. Mopar wasn't paying for my re-inspection. I started thinking.
So, I stopped at my local O'reilley auto parts, they have a flexible LED strip of red LED's and 3m two faced tape on the back. Very thin and perfect to slap on over broken factory LED's.
It was small black wire, ( like small speaker wire). Mojave is black also, up over the top of tailgate in between Rugged Ridge hard cover and tailgate, down to the flat four pin connector behind rear bumper.
I use a stick pin held on by those mini multimeter Test Hook Clip. Separate the connector and insert stick pin in 1st connector hole. Luckily the female part of the connector is on the Gladiator side. The wire from the stick pin connector, goes to my VOM.
Nothing happens when wifee presses brake pedal with pin hole number one. Check two and three, nothing.
PIN hole number four on the connector & we have a winner, plus 12 volts. That's the one I want.
Insert 'stick pin' into number four, still clipped on by the Mini multimeter Test Hook Clip with the other end clipped onto positive side of LED strip, instead of VOM now.
Ground wire from LED strip, over to ground connector on frame beside the spare tire, with alligator clip. ( There are two really good ground connectors on the crossmember of the Gladiator frame, right next to the spare tire, 10mm nuts.) Working like a champ !
Next day go back for re-inspection, within my 14 day window. Of course it passes with flying colors. I don't think Inspector even noticed the LED strip.
I ran that setup for three weeks, went to Pennsylvania from Virginia, no issues. Luckily no rain but I had taped over it so no water couldn't get to the connector.
When the part came in, they called me to bring the Gladiator in. I put the connector back together, and peeled my LED strip off the third brake light. Took it to the dealer. It's always a roll of the dice, turning it over to someone else.
They take that panel off the inside of the tail gate to get to the LED. They replaced the LED, said it was internal short.
While I had my connector apart , the lock on the tailgate did not work. Didn't really need it. I just wanted LED power, to get a new state inspection sticker. VA state police are freaks about that sticker.
I was in $9.99 for the red LED strip. I still have it, Its stuck to the side of my printer till I decide what to do with it.
So this VA state inspect was $30 instead of regular $20, and what could have been $40 !
I spent a lot of time messing with the connector to the tailgate.
I know how it all works now : )
best regards
mandrake
My LED assemble went bad, quit working, failed state inspection. Annoyed.
Covered by warranty, and like Benny said above, long lead time. My dealer said about two to three weeks. I had to wait on the part.
In the meantime In Virginia you get a reject sticker, only good for 14 days ! You pay 20 bucks for reject, if part arrives outside 14 day window, you pay another $20 for them to re-inspect your vehicle. No exceptions. Mopar wasn't paying for my re-inspection. I started thinking.
So, I stopped at my local O'reilley auto parts, they have a flexible LED strip of red LED's and 3m two faced tape on the back. Very thin and perfect to slap on over broken factory LED's.
It was small black wire, ( like small speaker wire). Mojave is black also, up over the top of tailgate in between Rugged Ridge hard cover and tailgate, down to the flat four pin connector behind rear bumper.
I use a stick pin held on by those mini multimeter Test Hook Clip. Separate the connector and insert stick pin in 1st connector hole. Luckily the female part of the connector is on the Gladiator side. The wire from the stick pin connector, goes to my VOM.
Nothing happens when wifee presses brake pedal with pin hole number one. Check two and three, nothing.
PIN hole number four on the connector & we have a winner, plus 12 volts. That's the one I want.
Insert 'stick pin' into number four, still clipped on by the Mini multimeter Test Hook Clip with the other end clipped onto positive side of LED strip, instead of VOM now.
Ground wire from LED strip, over to ground connector on frame beside the spare tire, with alligator clip. ( There are two really good ground connectors on the crossmember of the Gladiator frame, right next to the spare tire, 10mm nuts.) Working like a champ !
Next day go back for re-inspection, within my 14 day window. Of course it passes with flying colors. I don't think Inspector even noticed the LED strip.
I ran that setup for three weeks, went to Pennsylvania from Virginia, no issues. Luckily no rain but I had taped over it so no water couldn't get to the connector.
When the part came in, they called me to bring the Gladiator in. I put the connector back together, and peeled my LED strip off the third brake light. Took it to the dealer. It's always a roll of the dice, turning it over to someone else.
They take that panel off the inside of the tail gate to get to the LED. They replaced the LED, said it was internal short.
While I had my connector apart , the lock on the tailgate did not work. Didn't really need it. I just wanted LED power, to get a new state inspection sticker. VA state police are freaks about that sticker.
I was in $9.99 for the red LED strip. I still have it, Its stuck to the side of my printer till I decide what to do with it.
So this VA state inspect was $30 instead of regular $20, and what could have been $40 !
I spent a lot of time messing with the connector to the tailgate.
I know how it all works now : )
best regards
mandrake
Willys2Gladiator
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What's causing all the 3rd tail light failures? I thought LEDs were suppose to last a lot longer than the old halogen bulbs.
bd100
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In general, corrosion of the circuitry somewhere, or power supply failure. When you see what should be a steady LED blinking on and off it can be a failing power supply. When you see segments out it can be a corroded connector or circuit board. It can be caused by an insufficient heat sink, a failing water seal, cheap parts, etc.
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