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Milage not what I expected

Stan H

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ATL_Rubi

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I’m a little too lazy to read everything in this thread but I’ll post mine for reference:

2023 Rubicon, eBay clone steel front bumper with no skid plate and a teraflex leveling kit. I’m lucky to stay around 15-15.5 in town. That’s ~45mph roads with a stop light every half mile to a mile. Highway I can get up to 18ish if I stay at 70 or lower.

Running stock size Nitto G3’s with an E load rating, which are ironically lighter than the stock AT3W’s.
 

JTdiRtyD

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Is not using start stop really that big of difference? I know in theory it is, but shortly after buying my JT I installed the eliminator and never use the SS. Almost every time I drive mine I have about a 1,100 climb to get home. Something else to take into consideration as far as the winter driving is that colder air is denser and does have an impact. I have some experience racing planes and just 10 degrees makes a very noticeable difference in speed, the colder air the slower and being the brick that the JT is I suspect that may have a bigger impact than winter fuel blends.

Start-stop will really only make a difference with city driving where its a lot of longer period stop and go, and even then results will vary each tank. It wont really do anything if you drive mostly highway. Even vehicles that have an eco mode, it really only works in city driving.
 

Stan H

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Start-stop will really only make a difference with city driving where its a lot of longer period stop and go, and even then results will vary each tank. It wont really do anything if you drive mostly highway. Even vehicles that have an eco mode, it really only works in city driving.
100% ... truth.
It's like passing someone on a 20 miles highway trip getting off the exit stopping at a light and the guy you passed pulling in behind you. It accomplishing very little
 

Janster

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Start-stop will really only make a difference with city driving where its a lot of longer period stop and go, and even then results will vary each tank. It wont really do anything if you drive mostly highway. Even vehicles that have an eco mode, it really only works in city driving.
Is it even worth it?? I mean…sure…city driving… how much MPG and $ are you actually saving? Versus… the amount of wear/tear and replacement costs will bite you in the ass later on?

Meh….I don’t use mine. Love the Tazer for that purpose.
 

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ChrisNLA

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Is it even worth it?? I mean…sure…city driving… how much MPG and $ are you actually saving? Versus… the amount of wear/tear and replacement costs will bite you in the ass later on?

Meh….I don’t use mine. Love the Tazer for that purpose.
I don't use mine either, but I'm cheap and I've been pressing the button for three years.

I'm so trained that when I get in my Camaro, I go to reach down for the start stop button (that does not exist) when I get to the first stop sign by the house. Nearly every time 😄
 

Bandit’s Lair

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Is it even worth it?? I mean…sure…city driving… how much MPG and $ are you actually saving? Versus… the amount of wear/tear and replacement costs will bite you in the ass later on?

Meh….I don’t use mine. Love the Tazer for that purpose.
This!! I worry about the longevity of the starter and ignition systems using that system. Be just my luck I’d start using it and the starter craps out at the busiest intersection in town and I’m stuck in the middle lane with my thumb up my…….. nose.
 

JTdiRtyD

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100% ... truth.
It's like passing someone on a 20 miles highway trip getting off the exit stopping at a light and the guy you passed pulling in behind you. It accomplishing very little
Yeah but I feel better not being stuck behind someone lol don't care if we reach the same destination at the same time, I don't want anyone in front of me. ESPECIALLY if they suck an maintaining speed.
 

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I came from a 2014 Wrangler Sahara that was getting me 18-20 MPG and my 2024 Rubicon JT is also getting me 13-15 (consistently 15 now that I replaced the mud tires). The people you see getting high mileage must be driving a lot of long flat highways with few stops. I notice if I watch my active MPGs I can cruise at 25-30 MPG at 45-60 MPH on flat roads. But I drive a lot of stops and hills and my active MPG is tanked in those situations.
 

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This!! I worry about the longevity of the starter and ignition systems using that system. Be just my luck I’d start using it and the starter craps out at the busiest intersection in town and I’m stuck in the middle lane with my thumb up my…….. nose.
These systems have been around for over a decade with hardly any issues. The only high-profile issue has been with Honda (of all MFGs, the irony). The systems are engineered for the stress.

The popularity of hybrids and EVs seem to be the death knell for the ESS "feature" (not a bug), as it's widely acknowledged the fuel savings are modest (5-10% in city driving) to non-existent.
 

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JTdiRtyD

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I came from a 2014 Wrangler Sahara that was getting me 18-20 MPG and my 2024 Rubicon JT is also getting me 13-15 (consistently 15 now that I replaced the mud tires). The people you see getting high mileage must be driving a lot of long flat highways with few stops. I notice if I watch my active MPGs I can cruise at 25-30 MPG at 45-60 MPH on flat roads. But I drive a lot of stops and hills and my active MPG is tanked in those situations.
Yeah I think theres a lot of trim level conflicts when it comes to MPG claims on this site. A Sport with cheap, light 31" all seasons is going to get better than a rubicon with heavy 33 all terrains, but I think a lot of folks don't take that into consideration, at least not at first.

In my past 3 vehicles I've consistently seen 5+ mpg improvements while in the mountains vs at home in the flats. Even towing my camper around Colorado I will often see the same and sometimes better mpgs than when I'm not towing at home in MN. But you ask anyone that lives in the mountains and they claim poor economy (I blame it on their need to fly at mach speed down mountain roads, where as I let it coast).
 

NC_Overland

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Yeah I think theres a lot of trim level conflicts when it comes to MPG claims on this site. A Sport with cheap, light 31" all seasons is going to get better than a rubicon with heavy 33 all terrains, but I think a lot of folks don't take that into consideration, at least not at first.
You’d think so, but I saw zero difference. OEM 32.2” all seasons to 33.7” E load A/Ts. Granted they are lighter than some C load. Maybe the 4.10s make a difference over 3.73s. I can’t comment there.
 

JTGuy

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Had the 315-70 17 BFG KO2s and went to the 37-12.50-70 17 ,,, the went from the 4.10s to 4.88s .. No difference in MPG.
 

Dilly’S Willy

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I came from a 2014 Wrangler Sahara that was getting me 18-20 MPG and my 2024 Rubicon JT is also getting me 13-15 (consistently 15 now that I replaced the mud tires). The people you see getting high mileage must be driving a lot of long flat highways with few stops. I notice if I watch my active MPGs I can cruise at 25-30 MPG at 45-60 MPH on flat roads. But I drive a lot of stops and hills and my active MPG is tanked in those situations.
I thought so too, until I learned using Cruise Control gained 2mpg avg EVERYWHERE. I know it seems silly, unless I'm going up a serious hill with turns that require speed changes, it really does make a difference. Wen't from 14-15mpg (winter blend) back up to 16-17+ mpg avg. That's with 49lbs C-load MTs and a manual transmission.

These systems have been around for over a decade with hardly any issues. The only high-profile issue has been with Honda (of all MFGs, the irony). The systems are engineered for the stress.
It's not about stress testing, it's about the added charging/load cycles on the batteries and starter that people don't like. Batteries and starters have a rated lifespan, for batteries it's around 250-500 cycles more for lead-acid. For starters it's usually the contactors that fail, or a winding in the motor from the shock through the shaft at an angle overtime. Using those components more often WILL lead to an earlier failure, how much earlier isn't a guarantee. But it does improve chances you'll spend money fixing it when they fail sooner, and in theory that means more potential profit for manufacturers.
 

Bandit’s Lair

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On system reliability, I haven’t had my Gladiator as long as a lot of you but I keep seeing the issue with Aux battery and main battery mortality. I saw this from almost the start of looking at Gladiators with the system. I’m assuming most people experiencing this problem are using the stop/start function. If the main “beating heart” (literally) of a system is causing issues how can I trust the rest of the system to function as intended? I live about 30 minutes from town or even a Walmart so not a huge deal for me but I’m in town every day because the schools are better there and I’m Mr. Mom. I don’t turn it on in town and I don’t intend to because in my mind it will cause issues that I really don’t want to deal with. As soon as it comes up on my “Evil Plan to Take Over the World” the aux battery will be going bye bye and I’ll be installing a few batteries that will fit my needs. Just my $.02.
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