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Dougstdig

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More than likely it is doing it's job if that consideration was taken into the design of the oil system and the filtration media use.

OTR trucks regularly do 25K+ oil changes but that is where an oil analysis comes into play to see how your oil is actually performing and holding up.
***With filter changes. When I was OTR, the filter was changed @ 15k.
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CrazyCooter

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***With filter changes. When I was OTR, the filter was changed @ 15k.
I would suspect that's the 3,000 mile equivalent of the automotive world and that's why we are seeing the numbers much higher now.

What I'm seeing from most of these oil threads is reacting out of fear caused by people recommending service based on profit or ignorance instead of hard test data or facts. Then people ignore those of us with years of first hand testing on vehicles we have serviced?

You will never see me getting a 3 way heart bypass just because I'm 50 and haven't had a heart attack yet....but have had a few friends need them before 50? NO, we need to do testing and see what is required?

What about 100:1 oil mix on 2 strokes with synthetic oil? Hell no they say! Well, has worked for me the past 31+ years without a single failure....... 6% larger fuel capacity with less oil occupying the tank and leaner jetting is a plus too. People want to add more oil for insurance? Bad idea as that leans out the fuel mixture potentially causing engine damage?

I have NEVER had an oil related engine failure on any vehicle I have owned and I work all of them pretty hard with extended drain intervals on quality oils.
 

Vtur

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Here's a question to think about.

Ok......you have oil change suggestions for 10,000 mile intervals. Is the oil filter still doing its job towards the end of 10,000 miles. Or is it bypassing some of that dirty oil?
One way to finds out is to use a knife, scribe/indexing the valve's body with the plunger. It should misaligned if opens.
 

Rusty PW

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I would suspect that's the 3,000 mile equivalent of the automotive world and that's why we are seeing the numbers much higher now.

What I'm seeing from most of these oil threads is reacting out of fear caused by people recommending service based on profit or ignorance instead of hard test data or facts. Then people ignore those of us with years of first hand testing on vehicles we have serviced?

You will never see me getting a 3 way heart bypass just because I'm 50 and haven't had a heart attack yet....but have had a few friends need them before 50? NO, we need to do testing and see what is required?

What about 100:1 oil mix on 2 strokes with synthetic oil? Hell no they say! Well, has worked for me the past 31+ years without a single failure....... 6% larger fuel capacity with less oil occupying the tank and leaner jetting is a plus too. People want to add more oil for insurance? Bad idea as that leans out the fuel mixture potentially causing engine damage?

I have NEVER had an oil related engine failure on any vehicle I have owned and I work all of them pretty hard with extended drain intervals on quality oils.
20 to 1 on my Yammie TZ 350. Nothing like seizing motor going down the back straight at Nelson Ledges at about 120.
 

CrazyCooter

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20 to 1 on my Yammie TZ 350. Nothing like seizing motor going down the back straight at Nelson Ledges at about 120.
20:1 was the old standard.....smoked like crazy, oil loaded up the crank case, and leaked oil out of the exhaust. My ATC 250R called for that as well, but a drop in pilot jet, drop the needle one clip and 2 drops in main jet size to prep for 100:1.......Was all good for the 3 years I owned it.
 

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Rusty PW

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20:1 was the old standard.....smoked like crazy, oil loaded up the crank case, and leaked oil out of the exhaust. My ATC 250R called for that as well, but a drop in pilot jet, drop the needle one clip and 2 drops in main jet size to prep for 100:1.......Was all good for the 3 years I owned it.
Do you remember the smell of Castor bean oil? Will never forget that smell.
 

CrazyCooter

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Do you remember the smell of Castor bean oil? Will never forget that smell.
Yes....Klotz made an top end castor additive for 4 stroke engines that I would add to my gas for my buddies that were following me!

I also remember a buddy of mine had an engine seize while riding in the snow and we found out later that bean oil would separate from gas below freezing?
 

CrazyCooter

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My first ever oil Analysis. ‘21 JTRD. 10,000 mile oil change with factory and ID bypass oil filters. This is the spec Penzoil.

IMG_8303.jpeg
That doesn't look all that bad overall for 10k miles. Viscosity is in the 5w30 area though.
 

Vtur

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My first ever oil Analysis. ‘21 JTRD. 10,000 mile oil change with factory and ID bypass oil filters. This is the spec Penzoil.

IMG_8303.jpeg
Looks pretty good still. How old was the oil?
 

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Maximus Gladius

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About 6 months. My rigs heavy to about #6800. Turning 40’s. About 10% towing 4K trailer.
This oil change with Motul. See how that does.

What lab did this one. Does not look like Blackstone.
Very curious on what the Motul numbers do. The viscosity does look like 5/30 to me. I’m liking the metal wear numbers??
 
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@NCJL, it's good to see another New Mexican! Did you install the Insane Diesel bypass system yourself?
 
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biodiesel

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That doesn't look all that bad overall for 10k miles. Viscosity is in the 5w30 area though.
That's why I'm still running Pennzoil Platinum, albeit 6,000-mile intervals. The UOAs are pretty good. The gen 3 engine does a good job of shearing oil. Quaker State shears faster than any oil we've seen.

For whatever reason, the aluminum wear numbers are lower on the Jeeps than the Ram. Nobody seems to know where the aluminum is coming from. GDE thinks it's a combination of low-tension piston rings and an offset wrist pin. We would need to see a high mileage teardown to see what the piston skirts look like.

We've tested Amsoil AFL and EFM. Amsoil AFL has performed the best (no shearing). There's also an HPL 10W-40 that is being tested, and so far it doesn't seem to show much shearing. I'm happy with Pennzoil at this given time, but Amsoil AFL is the best oil we've seen without dispute.
 

Motopilot0311

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That's why I'm still running Pennzoil Platinum, albeit 6,000-mile intervals. The UOAs are pretty good. The gen 3 engine does a good job of shearing oil. Quaker State shears faster than any oil we've seen.

For whatever reason, the aluminum wear numbers are lower on the Jeeps than the Ram. Nobody seems to know where the aluminum is coming from. GDE thinks it's a combination of low-tension piston rings and an offset wrist pin. We would need to see a high mileage teardown to see what the piston skirts look like.

We've tested Amsoil AFL and EFM. Amsoil AFL has performed the best (no shearing). There's also an HPL 10W-40 that is being tested, and so far it doesn't seem to show much shearing. I'm happy with Pennzoil at this given time, but Amsoil AFL is the best oil we've seen without dispute.
The Amsoil AFL is not recommended due to the lack of MS-12991 cert correct? I understand it meets and/ or exceeds the performance required of FCA.
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