Rock Rails Thread

[Gatorized]

Oh yeah, that would have probably done it. You'd need to put it on there for a while since the bolts are pretty long. That sounds like a good solution to try. The problem with a butane torque is you risk melting things around the area. The induction header or electric briquette lighter at least makes it much more precise.

The question that needs to be answered is - how hot does the bolt need to get to counteract the red loctite? Then you could buy a bolt of similar size and heat the head with the briquette lighter and time how long it takes to get the thread area to that temp.

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[steffen707]

This guy says 550 to melt the loctite.

"Just an update for folks doing installs where you have to loosen body bolts. There are many horror stories on the forum of broken bolts due to the loctite. I’d also say due to over torquing at the factory (supposed to be 80ft-lbs.

I used the mini ductor 2 induction bolt heater. Loctite need 550 degrees to melt.

Run the bolt heater about 30sec until just starting to glow then give 30sec off. I repeated this about 4x per bolt (6 on the front which have red loctite). this allowed the heat to conduct up the bolt.

I used a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench. I had no creaking or popping. Just a smooth loosening. Wear leather gloves since the bolt will be hot and that heat will go into your socket and bar.

I repeated the process to tighten them as the loctite will reset and torque to 80ft-lbs. The loctite will reset once cooled.

Lots of folks just break them free which is fine most of the time but it’s a gamble. A torch can be used if that’s your jam but it’s outside my comfort level. The bolt heater will help later for any rusted or seized bolts on later installs.

Hope this helps folks."
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/body-bolts-and-how-not-to-break-them.43242/

 

[davetha]

Thanks. fyi, I do admit my mistake. Its like roulette it seems like. It could have been completely avoided. Listen to the folks above this comment ^^

Its not worth the risk without an induction type heater!

 

[steffen707]

Thanks. fyi, I do admit my mistake. Its like roulette it seems like. It could have been completely avoided. Listen to the folks above this comment ^^

Its not worth the risk without an induction type heater!

don't feel bad, I've read plenty of people just using pb blaster and crossing their fingers. After your reports, i'm definately heating it up with something.

once the bolt is out, what's the best way to get the loctite off the bolt?

 

[davetha]

don't feel bad, I've read plenty of people just using pb blaster and crossing their fingers. After your reports, i'm definately heating it up with something.

once the bolt is out, what's the best way to get the loctite off the bolt?

That part is easy. Some of it of course flakes off just by picking at it. If you get a couple of nuts with the same thread pitch and run it back and forth it will work its way off. Could even apply some heat and melt it, along with spinning the nut back and forth a bit. That's what I've done in the past at least. Works really well.

tbh. I didn't get that far though. I was loosening up everything first and it was literally only that rear one that gave me any trouble.

I don't think PB blaster would do much. These bolts are so long. Heat is probably the best solution. I always get concerned I'm going to melt a bushing using too much heat gun or torch. The induction heating seems like the most logical solution.

Having a Canadian Jeep TJ I've used my fair share of PB blaster. I still have 2 cans of it in fact

 

[eligius]

I bought the Rampage steps like @eligius but I welded them on the rock rail instead of drilling and using bolts. I’m happy with it.

Good job and you have nice steps for the fraction of new sliders.

 

[steffen707]

That part is easy. Some of it of course flakes off just by picking at it. If you get a couple of nuts with the same thread pitch and run it back and forth it will work its way off. Could even apply some heat and melt it, along with spinning the nut back and forth a bit. That's what I've done in the past at least. Works really well.

tbh. I didn't get that far though. I was loosening up everything first and it was literally only that rear one that gave me any trouble.

I don't think PB blaster would do much. These bolts are so long. Heat is probably the best solution. I always get concerned I'm going to melt a bushing using too much heat gun or torch. The induction heating seems like the most logical solution.

Having a Canadian Jeep TJ I've used my fair share of PB blaster. I still have 2 cans of it in fact

i figured wire wheel on my bench grinder will probably work nicely.

 

[Gatorized]

This guy says 550 to melt the loctite.

"Just an update for folks doing installs where you have to loosen body bolts. There are many horror stories on the forum of broken bolts due to the loctite. I’d also say due to over torquing at the factory (supposed to be 80ft-lbs.

I used the mini ductor 2 induction bolt heater. Loctite need 550 degrees to melt.

Run the bolt heater about 30sec until just starting to glow then give 30sec off. I repeated this about 4x per bolt (6 on the front which have red loctite). this allowed the heat to conduct up the bolt.

I used a breaker bar instead of an impact wrench. I had no creaking or popping. Just a smooth loosening. Wear leather gloves since the bolt will be hot and that heat will go into your socket and bar.

I repeated the process to tighten them as the loctite will reset and torque to 80ft-lbs. The loctite will reset once cooled.

Lots of folks just break them free which is fine most of the time but it’s a gamble. A torch can be used if that’s your jam but it’s outside my comfort level. The bolt heater will help later for any rusted or seized bolts on later installs.

Hope this helps folks."
https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/body-bolts-and-how-not-to-break-them.43242/

I thought this had been mentioned on this forum before but could not find it - here is a link showing how a JL broken front body mount bolt was repaired.

 

[kevman65]

Was all set to pull the trigger on the Rock Hard tube sliders.

THEN I get to the shipping. They only use freight and cheapest option is + $175 putting them at over $800 to the nearest FedEx freight depot.

I don't think so and the search continues.

 

[BlackDog]

Was all set to pull the trigger on the Rock Hard tube sliders.

THEN I get to the shipping. They only use freight and cheapest option is + $175 putting them at over $800 to the nearest FedEx freight depot.

I don't think so and the search continues.

Keep an eye on their re-sellers. I got mine from Northridge 4x4 when they were offering free shipping.

 

[JCJeep1]

Keep an eye on their re-sellers. I got mine from Northridge 4x4 when they were offering free shipping.

exactly what i did - love the rockhard sliders (angle up) got them through Northridge

 

[LostWoods]

Was all set to pull the trigger on the Rock Hard tube sliders.

THEN I get to the shipping. They only use freight and cheapest option is + $175 putting them at over $800 to the nearest FedEx freight depot.

I don't think so and the search continues.

Quadratec was doing no shipping charges and would get them drop shipped for the same price as RH. Got a quote from them Monday and that was the case at least.

 

[kevman65]

Keep an eye on their re-sellers. I got mine from Northridge 4x4 when they were offering free shipping.

Thank you.

I did a search after I posted that since RH doesn't list any of their "Partners" on their site.
Was hoping 4WheelParts carried ALL of RH's catalog since there is a store near me, but no.

Probably buy from Quadrajet errr Quadratech shortly.

 

[whiteglad]

Exactly! You have to think fourth dimensionally, Marty, lol. Northridge has free shipping and if you watch the LiteBrite videos on youtube, you can use that coupon to save another 5%. I bet if you call Rock Hard direct, they will match or come close and you might get it even quicker. I only had to go to the local fedex terminal to pick up mine.

 

[whiteglad]

BTW, the pallet is long, matching the box. The box and foam inside protected the rails very well. It will hang over the tailgate (in the down position), but I made it secure with a couple orange Harbor Freight ratchet straps.

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