Safe way to keep FAD engaged?

[Darel]

OK, here's my problem. I have a bone stock '21 JT Rubicon manual and I WANT TO KEEP IT THAT WAY. I am NOT modifying this truck in any way, whether it's with a Taser or with a $2000 solid front axle kit that I absolutely don't need so please don't go down that road.

I currently have the front-axle-disconnect issue. It's gotten so bad it basically howls and shrieks all the time in 2wd. I have figured out that by putting some backpressure on the t-case lever, the switch will engage the FAD and shut it the hell up, but not fully go into 4wd. Needless to say it's exhausting to drive this way, especially since I have a manual.

Multiple dealers have been less than useless in getting this fixed. I have an appt next week, and despite the fact that I have told them what the problem is and what parts are needed to fix it, they won't do anything until I bring it in and the diagnose it themselves. They also have NO loaners and NO rental reimbursement available, so basically I either need to drive around like this for an undetermined time while they have my truck to diagnose, then wait while they then order parts (and I'm sure deal with "supply chain issues") or lose my job. I have an hour commute daily, and the next two weekends I have Reserves, with the base about 3 hours away. So I'm sure it'll be at least a few more weeks before Jeep gets off its' ass and fixes my truck the right way.

So, if I am going to be spending an extended period of time with this problem, how best can I keep the FAD engaged, but NOT be driving around in 4wd on normal dry roads?

Can I remove the front driveshaft and drive around in 4wd (with no front driveshaft), or will that mess with the traction control or something? I've done this on lots of older 4x4s but never anything with all the electronic nannies.

Can I just unplug the FAD and put a 12v jumper on it? If so what lead? I'm coming up short finding a wiring diagram for it.

How's the electric portion of the FAD work? Is it spring loaded or power-open, power-closed? So for instance, what if I were to put the truck in 4wd (engaging the FAD) and then get out and unplug the lead? And then put it back in 2wd? If it was unplugged in 4wd mode, would it stay engaged or would it spring-return to 2wd mode once power was removed from the FAD?

Any other ideas?

I only bought this truck because I got so sick of wasting all my weekends wrenching on my fleet just to get to work in the morning, that I wanted something with a warranty. Even sprang for the 8yr./125,000 mile bumper to bumper extended. And I'm learning now that "warranty" and "service" to Jeep means absolutely nothing.

And yes, JeepCares has been just as useless as the three dealers I've been to.

Thanks for any ideas you have.

D

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[Kindafearless]

Not an expert on this one, but, I have taken the fad apart to do an axle shaft replacement. One thing you could try is just removing the coupler from the fad. My guess, would be that that shriek is coming from the fad not fully disengaging/engaging. It would be an hour or so worth of work, but shouldn’t damage anything.

You would lose 4wd obviously, but it could also help diagnose the problem. If things keep squealing after that, then it isn’t the fad!

 

[dcmdon]

I would try to go the electrical route. If you mess around with the axle then there is a decent chance that you will have issues getting it warrantied when you have the time to take it in.

One other suggestion is that different dealers have hugely varying quality service departments.
Try calling around to find one that will give you a loaner. Tell them you will drive an old used car if necessary.

 

[Darel]

I thought about that too. My dilemma there is if I'm going to start taking stuff apart I'm just going to fix the problem for good, which kind of defeats the purpose of the warranty and the war I've started with these service departments. I'd have to put the collar back in again when I went to take it for the final repair anyway. It's an option though, I'll see what they say Monday.

 

[Darel]

I would try to go the electrical route. If you mess around with the axle then there is a decent chance that you will have issues getting it warrantied when you have the time to take it in.

One other suggestion is that different dealers have hugely varying quality service departments.
Try calling around to find one that will give you a loaner. Tell them you will drive an old used car if necessary.

My thoughts exactly

 

[Kindafearless]

Good point about the warranty. I know you said no Tazer. I use JScan, which I'm pretty sure isn't as invasive as Tazer/Smartchips (might want to do your own research). Pretty sure you can disable a bunch of stuff with that. I bought the thing to do routine diagnostics for my truck, but has come in handy messing with settings I don't like.

I'd be super skeptical about putting power to it without knowing exactly how much current/voltage the FAD can take.

 

[jsalbre]

You can definitely pull the front driveshaft. I don’t think that would resolve your issue as it’s not spinning with the FAD disengaged anyway, but it won’t hurt anything to remove.

 

[Gatorized]

I would not touch a thing until the dealer fixes it. Any work you do could void your warranty. Try ear plugs Until it is fixed.

 

[hjdca]

OK, here's my problem. I have a bone stock '21 JT Rubicon manual and I WANT TO KEEP IT THAT WAY. I am NOT modifying this truck in any way, whether it's with a Taser or with a $2000 solid front axle kit that I absolutely don't need so please don't go down that road.

I currently have the front-axle-disconnect issue. It's gotten so bad it basically howls and shrieks all the time in 2wd. I have figured out that by putting some backpressure on the t-case lever, the switch will engage the FAD and shut it the hell up, but not fully go into 4wd. Needless to say it's exhausting to drive this way, especially since I have a manual.

Multiple dealers have been less than useless in getting this fixed. I have an appt next week, and despite the fact that I have told them what the problem is and what parts are needed to fix it, they won't do anything until I bring it in and the diagnose it themselves. They also have NO loaners and NO rental reimbursement available, so basically I either need to drive around like this for an undetermined time while they have my truck to diagnose, then wait while they then order parts (and I'm sure deal with "supply chain issues") or lose my job. I have an hour commute daily, and the next two weekends I have Reserves, with the base about 3 hours away. So I'm sure it'll be at least a few more weeks before Jeep gets off its' ass and fixes my truck the right way.

So, if I am going to be spending an extended period of time with this problem, how best can I keep the FAD engaged, but NOT be driving around in 4wd on normal dry roads?

Can I remove the front driveshaft and drive around in 4wd (with no front driveshaft), or will that mess with the traction control or something? I've done this on lots of older 4x4s but never anything with all the electronic nannies.

Can I just unplug the FAD and put a 12v jumper on it? If so what lead? I'm coming up short finding a wiring diagram for it.

How's the electric portion of the FAD work? Is it spring loaded or power-open, power-closed? So for instance, what if I were to put the truck in 4wd (engaging the FAD) and then get out and unplug the lead? And then put it back in 2wd? If it was unplugged in 4wd mode, would it stay engaged or would it spring-return to 2wd mode once power was removed from the FAD?

Any other ideas?

I only bought this truck because I got so sick of wasting all my weekends wrenching on my fleet just to get to work in the morning, that I wanted something with a warranty. Even sprang for the 8yr./125,000 mile bumper to bumper extended. And I'm learning now that "warranty" and "service" to Jeep means absolutely nothing.

And yes, JeepCares has been just as useless as the three dealers I've been to.

Thanks for any ideas you have.

D

Your conditions and request were very clear. You're only real option is to keep taking it the dealer. Probably best to find a competent dealer with a good reputation for working on Jeeps. It is best if the people who work at the dealership also own Jeeps.

 

[Darel]

Thanks guys. The problem I have is less of a "competent" dealer but one with available appointments (I have 3 appts scheduled right now at 3 different dealers) and even more importantly available loaners. Every single dealer has literally laughed at me when I asked for a loaner. I asked one, "OK, so are you going to cover a rental for me?" and they told me to go find another dealer, they won't service my truck. I GOT BLACKLISTED FOR TRYING TO GET A LOANER. So I already figured out what the issue is FOR them, did their job FOR them, and emailed the dealer. I said "please order an intermediate shaft kit, part number xxxxxx, for my Jeep with VIN xxxxxxx, so it can be there waiting when I have my appointment, and please reference TSB xxxxxxx" and they said, that's not how this works. So I'm planning ahead, because I'll take the truck in, they'll look at it, they'll agree I need an intermediate shaft kit, they'll say it's on 6 week backorder and their next available appointment is in July and oh yeah, no loaners, no rentals, no you can't drive anything off the lot, so I am just trying to plan ahead for some sort of warranty-friendly band-aid that makes this thing drivable in that time.

In 6 weeks I go on orders and have to drive from PA to Oklahoma....WTF am I supposed to do then, Jeep?

I got JeepCares involved, told them the whole story, and they said the same thing the dealers did - "tough shit".

WHY DID I BUY A NEW TRUCK?!?!?!

I guess I'm just venting. Thanks guys.

 

[Darel]

Just found this on the JL forum. Kinda looks like if I just make a jumper between the green/pink and the pink/blue wires it'll stay engaged all the time. Hmmmm.....

EDIT: a later post said that when engaged pin 2 grounds out, so it could be as simple as grounding pin 2. At the same time though, the guy says that the FAD remains in the position it was in if 12v is removed from pin #1, so it really could be as simple as putting it in 4wd and then disconnecting the plug. That's worth a shot, at least.

 

[Renegade]

Here you go
https://danaproparts.com/i-30497656...dana-30-and-dana-44-advantek-front-axles.html

 

[HjStrater]

Thanks guys. The problem I have is less of a "competent" dealer but one with available appointments (I have 3 appts scheduled right now at 3 different dealers) and even more importantly available loaners. Every single dealer has literally laughed at me when I asked for a loaner. I asked one, "OK, so are you going to cover a rental for me?" and they told me to go find another dealer, they won't service my truck. I GOT BLACKLISTED FOR TRYING TO GET A LOANER. So I already figured out what the issue is FOR them, did their job FOR them, and emailed the dealer. I said "please order an intermediate shaft kit, part number xxxxxx, for my Jeep with VIN xxxxxxx, so it can be there waiting when I have my appointment, and please reference TSB xxxxxxx" and they said, that's not how this works. So I'm planning ahead, because I'll take the truck in, they'll look at it, they'll agree I need an intermediate shaft kit, they'll say it's on 6 week backorder and their next available appointment is in July and oh yeah, no loaners, no rentals, no you can't drive anything off the lot, so I am just trying to plan ahead for some sort of warranty-friendly band-aid that makes this thing drivable in that time.

In 6 weeks I go on orders and have to drive from PA to Oklahoma....WTF am I supposed to do then, Jeep?

I got JeepCares involved, told them the whole story, and they said the same thing the dealers did - "tough shit".

WHY DID I BUY A NEW TRUCK?!?!?!

I guess I'm just venting. Thanks guys.

I hate coming off as if I am siding with a dealership here, so don’t take it the wrong way. Your warranty does not include rental reimbursement or a free loaner unless you paid for an extended or third party warranty. That’s why dealerships are laughing you out the door when you demand one. It is a courtesy service many dealers offer because they want warranty work, but it’s not something you are entitled to.

Bite the bullet on the cost for a rental, and just get your truck in to get fixed. If you keep making enemies out of service departments over a loaner you are just going to drag out getting your truck fixed.

 

[rharr]

Here you go
https://danaproparts.com/i-30497656...dana-30-and-dana-44-advantek-front-axles.html

Good find. Or you replace just the passenger side axle shaft with a full length shaft and fab up a plate.

 

[Darel]

Here you go
https://danaproparts.com/i-30497656...dana-30-and-dana-44-advantek-front-axles.html

This is exactly what I said I don't want to do, but thanks.

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