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The good and the bad of a roots supercharger.

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DAVECS1

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Do you think data logging would show the issue even if you’re not getting a light yet?
Yeah but you would need to run it consistently over 2800 rpm, for a bit.
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Do you think data logging would show the issue even if you’re not getting a light yet?
That was my question - I can use software and capture data from the running engine if it would help.
 

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Yeah but you would need to run it consistently over 2800 rpm, for a bit.
That should be doable. I’ll see if I can capture some logs with a constant 3k RPM run for a minute or so.
 

cmb396

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Fonzie had the wrong lifters.

If you are curious if you have the problem, go honestly bury the pedal from a dead stop through 4th gear. If you don't throw a light. I believe you are fine. If you do, I will bet you a Miller high life it is cylinder 1,3,5 misfiring.

I have helped about 2-3 people a week since my post. I would say 20 percent are 2021 models.

I looked at fonzies data and unfortunately was able to tell him with high confidence things had gone south.
I've done this a dozen or so times from 0-70+, and no codes. Knock on wood. Mine is a 2020
 

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I've done this a dozen or so times from 0-70+, and no codes. Knock on wood. Mine is a 2020
If an automatic, did you hold the RPM up by using manual mode and shifting to keep the RPM over 2800? Curious - I may do some logging on mine before it goes in for the trade. Not that it will matter to me after this summer, but why not?
 

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cmb396

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If an automatic, did you hold the RPM up by using manual mode and shifting to keep the RPM over 2800? Curious - I may do some logging on mine before it goes in for the trade. Not that it will matter to me after this summer, but why not?
No, I've just done wot 0-70 pulls. With 5:13's, its not hard to stay above 3k rpms. I've done the 0-70 pulls, and a handful of wot 30/40-70+ pulls.
Was just referencing Dave's comment, that if you've done this with no misfire codes, you're probably in clear.
 

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No, I've just done wot 0-70 pulls. With 5:13's, its not hard to stay above 3k rpms. I've done the 0-70 pulls, and a handful of wot 30/40-70+ pulls.
Was just referencing Dave's comment, that if you've done this with no misfire codes, you're probably in clear.
In a similar boat here, so ? Climbing the passes out here, the 37’s keep it above 4k a lot… a lot!!!
 

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2021 model built in mid/late 2020. Manual, I regularly twist above 3,000 ripums into the higher oil pressure territory. 29,000 on the clock so far. Maybe I got lucky, time will tell one way or the other.
 

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Hey guys - quick update… parts finally arrived to North-West Western Australia and rebuilt the Bank 1 valve train. All 6 high-lift lobes totally chewed out. Found the exhaust lifters in there, as others have… see pics. For the record - mine is a 2020 model Launch, done ~38,000 miles (about half of which was towing our Patriot camper), with a Magnuson.

Didn’t inspect Bank 2 - we’re currently touring around Australia in our Gladiator and had to hit the road. Time will tell I guess. It’s such a shame as otherwise, has been an awesome overlanding truck…

My parts list is below - in case helpful to others. Thanks again for the advice from Dave and others!
Jules

Jeep Gladiator The good and the bad of a roots supercharger. Glad Fix - 1

Jeep Gladiator The good and the bad of a roots supercharger. Glad Fix - 2


Part# Required
Intake Cam Bank 1 (RHS): 05047913AD1
Intake Rocker: 5047896AD6
Intake Lifter: 05047883AC6
Cover Gasket Bank 1 (RHS): 4893804AB1
PCV Valve: 68210345AC1
Camshaft Assembly Lube
Tensioner Tools (for 3.6 with VVT and VVL)1 set
Phaser blocks1 set
Other nice to have spares
Camshaft Position Sensor, Intake: 5149141AF1
VVL Solenoid, Front: 05047897AC1
VVL Solenoid, Rear: 5047901AC1
VVT Control Valve, Intake: 5047788AD1
Cam Phaser, Intake: 5047785AE1

Cam caps torque order:
Jeep Gladiator The good and the bad of a roots supercharger. Cam cap torque order
 
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DAVECS1

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Hey guys - quick update… parts finally arrived to North-West Western Australia and rebuilt the Bank 1 valve train. All 6 high-lift lobes totally chewed out. Found the exhaust lifters in there, as others have… see pics. For the record - mine is a 2020 model Launch, done ~38,000 miles (about half of which was towing our Patriot camper), with a Magnuson.

Didn’t inspect Bank 2 - we’re currently touring around Australia in our Gladiator and had to hit the road. Time will tell I guess. It’s such a shame as otherwise, has been an awesome overlanding truck…

My parts list is below - in case helpful to others. Thanks again for the advice from Dave and others!
Jules

Glad Fix - 1.jpeg

Glad Fix - 2.jpeg


Part# Required
Intake Cam Bank 1 (RHS): 05047913AD1
Intake Rocker: 5047896AD6
Intake Lifter: 05047883AC6
Cover Gasket Bank 1 (RHS): 4893804AB1
PCV Valve: 68210345AC1
Camshaft Assembly Lube
Tensioner Tools (for 3.6 with VVT and VVL)1 set
Phaser blocks1 set
Other nice to have spares
Camshaft Position Sensor, Intake: 5149141AF1
VVL Solenoid, Front: 05047897AC1
VVL Solenoid, Rear: 5047901AC1
VVT Control Valve, Intake: 5047788AD1
Cam Phaser, Intake: 5047785AE1

Cam caps torque order:
Cam cap torque order.jpg
Nice write up, should combine this with the cam tool stuff. I get asked these questions once a week. Maybe a good write up would help that
 

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jwolfejt

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Hey guys - quick update… parts finally arrived to North-West Western Australia and rebuilt the Bank 1 valve train. All 6 high-lift lobes totally chewed out. Found the exhaust lifters in there, as others have… see pics. For the record - mine is a 2020 model Launch, done ~38,000 miles (about half of which was towing our Patriot camper), with a Magnuson.

Didn’t inspect Bank 2 - we’re currently touring around Australia in our Gladiator and had to hit the road. Time will tell I guess. It’s such a shame as otherwise, has been an awesome overlanding truck…

My parts list is below - in case helpful to others. Thanks again for the advice from Dave and others!
Jules

Glad Fix - 1.jpeg

Glad Fix - 2.jpeg


Part# Required
Intake Cam Bank 1 (RHS): 05047913AD1
Intake Rocker: 5047896AD6
Intake Lifter: 05047883AC6
Cover Gasket Bank 1 (RHS): 4893804AB1
PCV Valve: 68210345AC1
Camshaft Assembly Lube
Tensioner Tools (for 3.6 with VVT and VVL)1 set
Phaser blocks1 set
Other nice to have spares
Camshaft Position Sensor, Intake: 5149141AF1
VVL Solenoid, Front: 05047897AC1
VVL Solenoid, Rear: 5047901AC1
VVT Control Valve, Intake: 5047788AD1
Cam Phaser, Intake: 5047785AE1

Cam caps torque order:
Cam cap torque order.jpg
Wow the cams and rocker look very different from what i've seen from people doing this job on Youtube - i guess the VVL stuff has to be - that lifter is a new revised mopar part ?
 

jwolfejt

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If you all are wondering why I limited my engine to 2800 rpm.

Also you can see the difference between the older rockers and the new ones

My guess is the high lift shim on my number one rocker has come loose or the lock pin spring is broke.

https://www.sae.org/news/2015/08/2016-pentastar-v6-adds-new-vvt-cooled-egr

f7992fa869343fb0a4cca89766b008d7.jpg


48d2fc7cb7e42858198ef5504a9c6b0b.jpg
Yeah i noticed that they look wildly different, looks like its cast instead of stamped, I assume the middle lobe rests until its actuated by higher oil pressure in the higher rev range ? (or vice versa).
 

jwolfejt

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I bought the cam tools. It made the job really easy. With the timing gear lock in place you can unbolt the cam phaser and then just wiggle the cam out with the timing and everything still in place. I was able to leave the blower on, and just remove the battery and fuse block tray. Had plenty of room.

I purchased:
1. Intake cam
2. 6 x intake rockers
3. 6 x intake lifters
4. Valve cover gasket
6. Amazon Pentastar cam tools for 2010-2021
7. Camshaft assembly lube
8. Gray RTV for aluminum sealing surfaces, for the timing cover split at the valve cover and for taking off the small oil pan and cleaning it out.
9. VVL front solenoid
10. VVL rear solenoid

The oil pan was mostly clean the oil filter was trashed, I had changed it thre times in the last 2000 miles when I knew what was going on. It has been clean, since the work.
How are things holding up ? I am knocking on wood here - i have a bit of rattle on startup (the same as my old WK2 did and was told that all of these engines due this due to the way oil is routed in the engine the top end has a bit of oil delivery) but otherwise sounds fine to me- there is supposedly a pressured setup that goes inline with the oil filter housing and pressurizes the oil there with CO2 if i am not mistaken but not going to be messing with any of that. My engine once started is whisper quiet and sounds very normal to me. Hearing from some people with the older non VVL engines that had similar work done (and doing oil changes afterwards) they reported their engines lasted well beyond 100k miles with 0 issues. Looking at what you presented the improper lifter being installed could have most definitely caused this.
 
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DAVECS1

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I have about 10k miles on my fix and no signs of it returning. I did have the catalytic converter come apart on that side. So right now I am running a bit lopsided. New one is 1300 dollars
 

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I have about 10k miles on my fix and no signs of it returning. I did have the catalytic converter come apart on that side. So right now I am running a bit lopsided. New one is 1300 dollars
Do you think the cat got toasted by the less than ideal running conditions of that bank?
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