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Mojave should come with 4.56 gears 4.10s dont cut it

Zachanadandy

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2200-2500 rpm is far from red line; it is not "out of shifts" (downshifts, that is, which is what we are talking about). Mine downshifts, just not on small hills. It will downshift several gears if I press the accelerator hard enough.

Gearing is a compromise. "Optimum" gearing is an opinion that depends on the criteria used for determining "optimum". My engine is spinning 11% faster than before. Whether the increased rpms causes more wear or the reduced load causes less remains to be seen. It has a small affect on mpg but I don't care, it was not one of my criteria.
Not downshifting when at 2500 rpm doesn't prove it's a light load, as that will hold under moderate loads. Not downshifting from 2k or less like stock proves a light load. My point was you're out of upshifts. If you went extreme and regeared to 5.38s on stock tires and you were cruising around at 3k+ rpm in 8th it would almost never downshift. Raising the cruising rpm will obviously raise the amount of load it will take for the Jeep to want to downshift but that doesn't mean it's a light load. I don't buy the reduced load from gearing unless you drive it in the same gears at the same speeds all the time? Otherwise the trans will shift to compensate for the load. The pro-deep gearing crowd tries to argue both ways. It downshifts more often and cruises in 7th if there's a hill or heavy wind, that's a problem. Simultaneously more gearing reduces the load? Then wasn't the Jeep already reducing the load as effectively or moreso by downshifting? 7th with 4.10s is the same final drive ratio as 5.13s in 8th. If gearing reduces the load, it downshifting often is the most efficient way of doing that. Hell when it downshifts to 6th I've got the same final drive ratio as 8th gear with 6.12 axle gearing, and y'all thought 5.38s were impressive? And you made a moderate gear change. It's the extremes that I warn about.
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Splenda

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It seems like the people who insist on re-gearing seem to be the ones who insist on talking about how important it is to regear. I'm a smart guy, and I definitely understand the importance of the gear ratio when off-roading. I would never take my mostly stock Gladiator with 37s and 4:10s rock crawling. I think the point that most people miss is that the optimal gearing really depends on how the Jeep will be used, and that is different for every person. I drive 7k miles a year with the occasional jaunt on an old logging road. That's a far cry from someone who drives 25k miles a year or someone else who trailers his Jeep to the Rubicon Trail every weekend. Mine is extremely drivable with 37s and 4.10s for what I do with it. If, or when, I find that it is not capable of what I am trying to do, I will make the appropriate changes.
 

Wheelin98TJ

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It seems like the people who insist on re-gearing seem to be the ones who insist on talking about how important it is to regear. I'm a smart guy, and I definitely understand the importance of the gear ratio when off-roading. I would never take my mostly stock Gladiator with 37s and 4:10s rock crawling. I think the point that most people miss is that the optimal gearing really depends on how the Jeep will be used, and that is different for every person. I drive 7k miles a year with the occasional jaunt on an old logging road. That's a far cry from someone who drives 25k miles a year or someone else who trailers his Jeep to the Rubicon Trail every weekend. Mine is extremely drivable with 37s and 4.10s for what I do with it. If, or when, I find that it is not capable of what I am trying to do, I will make the appropriate changes.
Some say axle gears are more important for on road.

You have 4 low for off road to help if your axle gears are too tall.
 

Zachanadandy

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Some say axle gears are more important for on road.

You have 4 low for off road to help if your axle gears are too tall.
With the 8 speed they aren't really all that important anywhere, but I agree especially with the rubicon 4-1 low range. Stock you've got a 77-1 crawl ratio, plus the torque converter adding torque in low gears when it's unlocked. That's enough gearing to crawl on 42s no problem. That's the same crawl ratio as an old tj or xj with an auto and the 2.72-1 tcase running 10-1 axle gears. Nobody did that, A. Because those gears don't exist. B. Because your top speed would be 40mph on road C. Because you didn't need to.
 

JTGuy

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I was fine with my light 37s and 4.10s but the 4.88s really woke up things. 80 on the freeway is no problem and around town it just jumps off the stoplight line. I still get 14-15 around town.
 

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jmdwifi

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Because the I need more gearing crowd has about the same tangible benefit as religion. There are literally those who documented 0-60 runs via draggy before and after a gear change and across the entire graph gained nothing. So that disproves the gaining power and acceleration back via gearing argument. There are those like me who documented before and after mpg. Gained 1 mpg in a lot of stop and go driving... and lost 2-3 on long highway drives. $3k so it shifts less and in your head it somehow improves driveability even though it can't be measured? The religion argument is spot on. Enjoy your imaginary friend and imaginary gains via gearing.
Your religion thing is cute, hope you convinced yourself. I had an overland before the current one and went from 3.73 to 4.56 with 35s. It was better and noticeabl.
my new one has 4.10s so when I go 35, I probably will not regear.
 

Zachanadandy

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Your religion thing is cute, hope you convinced yourself. I had an overland before the current one and went from 3.73 to 4.56 with 35s. It was better and noticeabl.
my new one has 4.10s so when I go 35, I probably will not regear.
Better and noticeable like prayer? Or like measurable? Placebo affect is strong, especially when you spent thousands of dollars. Those of us who actually measured saw little to no difference in 0-60, proving it's not quicker/ better at accelerating/ more powerful. We saw a slight gain in mpg in town and twice as much loss at freeway speeds, again not better. It shifts at lower speeds, so it shifts quicker which might give the illusion of being faster.
 

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Want to estimate your quarter mile times?

ET = 5.825 Ă— (Weight/HP)^(1/3)
 

Splenda

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I just love that every Jeep owner is such an expert. This is my first Jeep, so I don't feel like an expert. Most Jeep owners are complete experts, especially on the equipment and modifications they own. They don't know what makes that brand of modification so much better than all the other brands, but they have watched the videos. They have read the research. They have done the due diligence, and they know that it was expensive. Expensive equals awesome, and that makes it the best!
 

bleda2002

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Better and noticeable like prayer? Or like measurable? Placebo affect is strong, especially when you spent thousands of dollars. Those of us who actually measured saw little to no difference in 0-60, proving it's not quicker/ better at accelerating/ more powerful. We saw a slight gain in mpg in town and twice as much loss at freeway speeds, again not better. It shifts at lower speeds, so it shifts quicker which might give the illusion of being faster.
Definitely measurable. 1 second improvement 0-60 isn't anything to sneeze at. Still doesn't do anything for the highway, but man I love the regeared jt around town as compared to the non-regeared one (I have gears dad doesn't and his definitely lacks the get up and go from the stop light, still very liveable though as he doesn't tow). Butt dyno and stop watch both have actual improvement.

Towing is a completely different animal too, from "please don't make me stop and start on this hill" to tow it up the side of a cliff if I need to (albeit very slowly in 1st, 2nd and 3rd).

As someone else said, it all depends on the use case. If you want more off the line, regear. Don't need more off the line? Save your money cause you won't care about what it improves anyways.
 

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Zachanadandy

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Definitely measurable. 1 second improvement 0-60 isn't anything to sneeze at. Still doesn't do anything for the highway, but man I love the regeared jt around town as compared to the non-regeared one (I have gears dad doesn't and his definitely lacks the get up and go from the stop light, still very liveable though as he doesn't tow). Butt dyno and stop watch both have actual improvement.

Towing is a completely different animal too, from "please don't make me stop and start on this hill" to tow it up the side of a cliff if I need to (albeit very slowly in 1st, 2nd and 3rd).

As someone else said, it all depends on the use case. If you want more off the line, regear. Don't need more off the line? Save your money cause you won't care about what it improves anyways.
I'm not sure how accurate your stop watch is. I've seen before and after graphs from a draggy that showed 0.1s improvement going from 4.10s to 4.88s on 37s. That's about what we saw in my buddies JLUR using the tazer's 0-60 feature too. Our JLUR lost 0.5s going from 4.10s to 5.38s on 38s but the 2.0T has such a low redline it had to shift an extra time with the regear. Even in professional testing in the JLUs the sport with 3.45s and 32s has the same 0-60 as the rubicon with 4.10s and 33s which is the same as the XR with 4.56s and 35s. Yes those all come with different size tires, but the gearing difference is much greater than the tire size difference and it doesn't seem to be doing anywhere near what you saw? Gears make a huge difference if your running a powerglide, a 3 speed, or even a 4 or 5 speed as the ratios were so spread out. With the 8 speed they don't in any testing or driving I've done including 8k pounds up mountains. Unless you get into an extreme situation like 42s and 3.73s I think the money is better spent elsewhere. I'd still bet a tuner would make more of a difference 0-60 at less than 20% of the cost. And this thread is claiming Jeep should have paired 4.56s with 33s? Even with 35s the JLUR felt overgeared on the freeway with the 4.56s.
 
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SRFRAT67

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2024 Mojave with 4.10's, MOPAR lift, 35X12.5 NITTO Ridge Grapplers on Method Wheels, smart cap, 171 pound RTT, 270 deg awning. 1000 lb payload rating from factory as listed on door sticker, when fully loaded I am just under GVWR , including me, the wife, and full gas tank and have no issues with the gearing, I have pretty much lost 8th gear on highway and will see it sometimes on the flats if there isn't a lot of wind but usually its 7th , no noticeable degradation in performance, gas mileage is 17.5 to 18.5 when not loaded, my first trip loaded was 16 avg. I dont plan on going to 37's and dont and probably won't tow. I plan on sticking with the factory gears for now

Wife's JL High Tide came from factory with 4.56 and my seat of the pants comparison can't really tell much of a difference
 
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So ironic to see talk of quarter mile or 0-60 times in the same paragraphs that the word JEEP is mentioned. Sort of like "Senate intelligence" - oxymoron - fast/Jeep.
 

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Behold, the Internet.

“I wanna do a thing with my money but need validation to make me feel good about doing it.”

“You’re dumb for doing something with your own money that I would not do with mine.”

“Dearest sirs, may I offer my opinion on a completely different subject which shares but one small similarity to the topic at hand?”

“Politics or religion!”

“So anyway, I still disagree and want you to know it.”

“Have y’all tried a pedal commander though?!?!?!?!?!?”

*repeat the above for 2-27 pages*

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Behold, the Internet.

“I wanna do a thing with my money but need validation to make me feel good about doing it.”

“You’re dumb for doing something with your own money that I would not do with mine.”

“Dearest sirs, may I offer my opinion on a completely different subject which shares but one small similarity to the topic at hand?”

“Politics or religion!”

“So anyway, I still disagree and want you to know it.”

“Have y’all tried a pedal commander though?!?!?!?!?!?”

*repeat the above for 2-27 pages*

“This thread has been closed to further commenting”

I think I know, I mean a yes
But it's all wrong
That is, I think I disagree
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