aux dies every 5k miles neg lead reads 22v! delete doesnt work help!

[bbilly29]

Didn't you fiddle with it when trying to jump it earlier on?

There was a lot at the beginning of this thread that didn't make any sense or was straight-up wrong, so there's a decent chance the fuse blew from user error. Never addressing it kept killing batteries from that point on, and the fact you measured 22v tells me you did something you shouldn't have.

no. when i tried to "charge" it i first ran the multi meter to test everything found and removed the dead negative on the main and tried to start via the "delete". then (since N2 was blown and had been blown for some time) I read one neg w 22v without the one neg attached. I think somehow via the car grounding out to the frame this made a series connection somehow w one wire removed not sure why but i triple checked this. With n2 out as well this is possible, but only w both connected could the car start and then die quickly since the aux could only hold about a minute of charge after charging/jumping etc. SO.... back to what I asked. Do you know why a fuse would blow twice without "fiddling " or blaming me like the dealer does....are you from the dealer or something?

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[sharpsicle]

Wow okay, nevermind then. Just putting the pieces together in an attempt to help.

 

[jebiruph]

There isn't an N2 fuse.

 

[Hootbro]

There isn't an N2 fuse.

Just add it to all the other stuff that never made sense.

Not trying to dog pile on the OP but it was natural for most to come to the conclusion he messed something up the way he conveyed the problem as he wrote it. He has to own that regardless if the case.

 

[Badunit]

no. when i tried to "charge" it i first ran the multi meter to test everything found and removed the dead negative on the main and tried to start via the "delete". then (since N2 was blown and had been blown for some time) I read one neg w 22v without the one neg attached.

No expert here but the wiring diagrams show N2 to have no fuse of its own. N2 is the main battery connection and feeds N3 through N7, which do have fuses (100A-300A each).

If you were measuring your 22V from the disconnected negative post of the one battery to the connected positive post of the other, it might be possible to read 22V. It is a meaningless value. The multimeter (which is very high impedence/resistance) would be completing the circuit. Multimeter lead on disconnected Aux battery negative post -> gains 10V across the battery to pos post -> through wiring and some piece(s) of electronics to ground -> into the other battery's ground post -> gains 12V across that battery to its positive post -> circuit completed by the multimeter back to aux neg post. Basically you would have connected the negative of one battery to the positive of the other through the multimeter. The high impedence/resistance of the multimeter keeps the current extremely low so that any device the current went though would, in contrast, be like a short circuit (no voltage drop).

 

[Jaxmax]

Bill , it was the N-7 fuse that blew which is the alternator on the fuse array. Bill a fuse works on thermal and chemical reactions to open the circuit. Lastly there is no such thing as a bad fuse, if it blew it worked good , so it was a good fuse that worked!
If N 7 fuse has blown twice and first time was while you were driving , a large current flowed through the circuit, which would be caused by a short or possibly failing piece that can draw a lot of current such as the power steering pump. Fuse 7 had to be the one blowing to cause your batteries draining. You disconnecting things and trying to do the aux delete along the road could also have blown N-7, not a big deal so many people blow fuses doing the aux delete , so many hook the aux battery wires to the main battery which does not really do anything. You are missing something and should have someone look at it and please be aware of the power of unfused battery connections they can melt a wrench , explode the battery into an acid bomb or start your Jeep on fire!…. Jack

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