aux dies every 5k miles neg lead reads 22v! delete doesnt work help!

[bbilly29]

im getting my 4rth aux batt replaced w only 19k on the jeep

after getting "car will shut down errors" i pulled over and tried to charge the Li batt w a back up and also tried to do the delete since the main was at 12.8 v.

The car would only start w both neg leads connected but would die in 20 seconds showing 8V on the dash battery gauge. So it is reading the aux under load and ignoring the main.

the weirdest part was when testing the aux lead to the pos on the main battery it read 22.8V which is series for the main and the 10v from the aux. How is this possible?

last i noticed they have the small wire grounding the jeep and the fat wire going to the aux

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[ATL_Rubi]

Paging @ShadowsPapa

 

[Badunit]

Sounds very odd to me. Here are some thoughts off the top of my head.

What is an Li Battery? Li usually means Lithium but we don't have a lithium battery, just lead acid AGM.

Are you sure the main (and Aux) batteries are connected properly? Neither is in backwards? It kind of sounds like the main is in backwards but has blown something (like the IBS) so it is no longer connected. I find it hard to believe, though.

The negatives for the two batteries connect at the IBS on the negative terminal of the main battery. The only way I see for them to be in series is if one was put in backwards, but that should have been really obvious at the moment it was connected. Then something would have blown.

In circuits with poor connections, you might get a strong voltage using a multimeter (which draws almost no current) but then nearly 0V if something is hooked up that takes any power. A blown IBS might (I assume) let a small amount of current through but be nearly an open circuit for any larger load. I don't know what the circuittry is inside of one to say this for sure, just assuming.

 

[embedded rock]

Why are the battery leads in "series" as you mentioned? The two batteries are wired in parallel.

 

[Hootbro]

Sounds like you have multiple issues and may also have induced a blown fuse array with all the fiddling.

 

[jebiruph]

Blown fuse array, check the N3 fuse and/or move the N3 wire to N4 for testing.

 

[bbilly29]

Blown fuse array, check the N3 fuse and/or move the N3 wire to N4 for testing.

with a blown fuse array wouldnt the car be completely dead? and that doesnt explain why this is my 4rth new aux battery or does it?? I get maybe the fuse blows if I cross the leads jumping it but that never happened.

 

[bbilly29]

Why are the battery leads in "series" as you mentioned? The two batteries are wired in parallel.

they should be but the meter shows 22v w the aux negative only connected and not the car lead.

 

[bbilly29]

Sounds very odd to me. Here are some thoughts off the top of my head.

What is an Li Battery? Li usually means Lithium but we don't have a lithium battery, just lead acid AGM.

Are you sure the main (and Aux) batteries are connected properly? Neither is in backwards? It kind of sounds like the main is in backwards but has blown something (like the IBS) so it is no longer connected. I find it hard to believe, though.

The negatives for the two batteries connect at the IBS on the negative terminal of the main battery. The only way I see for them to be in series is if one was put in backwards, but that should have been really obvious at the moment it was connected. Then something would have blown.

In circuits with poor connections, you might get a strong voltage using a multimeter (which draws almost no current) but then nearly 0V if something is hooked up that takes any power. A blown IBS might (I assume) let a small amount of current through but be nearly an open circuit for any larger load. I don't know what the circuittry is inside of one to say this for sure, just assuming.

all i know is the battery reads 22v tested it multiple times w the aux lead on the main. also my small black wire is connected to the car not the aux and the aux delete doesnt work at all the car is completely dead when i try that.

 

[Hootbro]

all i know is the battery reads 22v tested it multiple times w the aux lead on the main. also my small black wire is connected to the car not the aux.....................

None of this makes any sense in how you described it. Below is a simplified diagram of the system. How you have 22VDC is beyond me other than you have a wiring problem of some sort either self induced or something shorted or shorting.

The fuse array has multiple legs, I would suggest taking that off with no wiring attached and check continuity across each fuse.

 

[Jaxmax]

22 volts is possible if he takes the “car lead” to fender off the negative terminal and someone put the aux battery in backwards, that would turn it into a series connection. That is only way to get 22VDC. I assume the dealer is doing all this work , take it back or go to another dealer. Something is wrong …….Jack

 

[Ssober]

Why is the ground hooked up from the aux battery? That is part of the delete

 

[bbilly29]

22 volts is possible if he takes the “car lead” to fender off the negative terminal and someone put the aux battery in backwards, that would turn it into a series connection. That is only way to get 22VDC. I assume the dealer is doing all this work , take it back or go to another dealer. Something is wrong …….Jack

this is what i theorized, i think a cable end is mismarked which is why each dealer repair has ended up the same.... 6mos and then a dead battery. So putting in the aux backwords wouldnt automatically blow the system?

the dealer just told me the fuse is blown at n7 and is charging me even though its under warranty and its the same problem. Also if fuse 7 is blown would the car still start and light up or would it be totally dead?

 

[bbilly29]

Why is the ground hooked up from the aux battery? That is part of the delete

i tried the delete but w out the aux neg hooked up to the main the car was dead. hooked the aux back on and took off the other lead=dead. both wires were needed to start it

 

[NC_Overland]

19k miles. What year is it? If it’s less than 3 yrs old I’d take it in for warranty repair.

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