correct 1500 is something we willing spend for our jeeps but to get it right in the first time shouldnt be our cost.. If you said to me spend 1500 and your jeep will get another 100,000 miles with larger tires and more hp. I would sign up today.
OK - I got the recall software flash done and all is cool. No change at all to the clutch feel (I didn't expect any but some in this forum seem to think there would be). The software upgrade includes a gear indicator - I made a short YT video showing what I mean.
I have a similar situation that is difficult to back up... I just put it in 4-low and let the clutch all the way out and it creeps up the driveway with no clutch slip. This clutch is not the best in reverse!>>> - earlier tonight I was backing a trailer up my driveway (moderate upslope, 50ft long, weird approach curb to negotiate, small boy scout single axle utility trailer that was EMPTY - probably no more than 1,000LBS - but the trailer is short and the JT is long...) and I got a warning note about my clutch being hot. I am admittedly, not a total back up with a trailer STUD like all of you no doubt. I backed up slowly and feathered the clutch in order to position it perfectly. I definitely smelled something, and I ended up having to back up twice to get it just right. Anyway - below is the message I got. Didn't affect engine power. I turned off my JT to unhitch the trailer and then restarted about 10 mins later - no further warnings or messages and no perceptible change in driving behavior. SO - I'm thinking that the JT's central command noticed that I was heating up the clutch and told me to take it easy. Frankly if that is all the software upgrade does then I'm totally fine with it. Basically its a dummy light for dummies like me.
You and I have the same mindset. In the past when I am moving our larger trailer, or when they are loaded (our larger trailer is a 7x12 single axle that we fully load up to about 3,500LBS) then I have used low range and it works like a charm. Even on 35s the JTR 4.10 with 4-1 reduction allows a nice easy clutchless crawl backwards. However, I was in a hurry and my driveway is paved and because some of the navigating I had to do (neighbor's kid always parks across from my driveway just to piss me off) I wanted to avoid any binding up...
I[m pretty sure if I kept abusing the clutch it is possible that the engine computer might have put it into limp mode. I have no idea on what actually happens. One thought I had was that the warning wasn't out of nowhere. I could smell a bit of clutch toast and was already berating myself so the warning is a welcome reminder to take it easy. I'm generally pretty good about this kind of thing so when the clutch does eventually wear out 5 or 10 years (I hope) I'm sure there will be more substantial options out there than just the centerforce kit...
I've resorted to this when backing up off road. In reverse in 4H any resistance when backing up (rocks, steering wheel cranked) forces me to slip the clutch or it stalls. 4L solves that problem.
I don't know what reverse gear ratio is but it is definitely not as low as 1st in the 6MT. And yes - backing up offroad in the 6MT takes some skill - especially if you turn to look over your shoulder as we were all likely taught to do in the first place.
1st is 5.13 : 1
Yep - I can start in 2nd in 4H (like in snowy weather) no problem. Just need to worry about bogging. But in reverse I think it is the act of twisting around and getting feet sideways or something. You know everyone else says "get a damn auto" but except for this one thing I love the 6MT.
Thanks for the tip. About to pull our scout trailer this weekend. It's a dual axle 15' box trailer. All filled up it's got some weight. Towed it a few times and no issues (actually, found it quite easy) but the guys driveway where we store it is uphill and I smelled a bit o' burn last time parking it. Gonna try 4L and creep it in.
Hi Sam,
Rob - can you comment on how that torque reduction occurs, and more importantly how long it occurs for? Will it go into a "limp mode" meaning severely reduced torque and mobility? And how does that get cleared? Simply falling back under a temperature threshhold, or something different? Some details from Jeep on exactly what the software does when it detects an overheat situation would be super helpful. I feel like Jeep is holding back on us regarding information on how this "fix" actually operates, and as a result, I am holding off having the flash done.
