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Diesel cooling options and ideas

bl1ndman

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Following to see what people come up with, I was between the diesel and just the pentastar and a lot of this is creating some worry, my order should be showing up in the next couple weeks holefully.... I guess it is possible it's gonna get delayed because of the couple weeks stop recently. But we will see... keeping my eye on this but hmm does this one problem make the ecodiesel not worth it or is it minimal enough and only situational that it's fine
I think it depends on where you live and how you are using it.
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maligator

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Hey I have a brilliant idea, bypass your windshield wiper fluid sprayers and reroute in front of the radiator. switch fluid with water and when things heat up just give her a spritz. if your windshield gets dirty just fold it down. Prove me wrong ❄❄❄
 

AjMac

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Just read through everything...there are some serious gear heads in here, pretty awesome! Fortunately for me I don't have any plans for towing with my JTRD, although it was interesting reading about some of the passive cooling options. I know it get's real hot out on the trails in the summer, and I would like to be better suited for avoiding any sort of overheating.

Good reading, look forward to seeing more!
 

MPMB

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From BAT, I see someone knows what I'm talking about with regard to Cool Tubes! :LOL:

Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas p_wrangler_1628276532afd8be11b40c6dlowres_JEEP_193
 

rchandler341

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I have not pulled a large trailer with my JT EcoDiesel yet. But I have noticed, with a camper on, that during long steep grades the engine does heat up. It has never de-fueled on me but I have seen oil temps in the 250°f range. I tried the "cool down mode" on the Tazer JL Mini and it does make a huge difference in temperatures. You can easily see 10° - 15° drop in the coolant temps very quickly and the oil temp soon follows.

I had another vehicle that would have trouble keeping the engine cool. I installed a switch to turn the high speed fan on manually. Long before it got hot enough for it to turn on by itself. It made a huge difference. I would turn on the high speed fan before the cooling system got hot and it could keep up with the rising oil temps. I am sure if you keep a sustained load on the EcoDiesel it will eventually get hot and de-fuel. But this will give you much more time by increasing cooling with the fan on earlier.

Once an engineered auxiliary oil cooler is manufactured, I will be installing one. Since the oil runs much hotter than the coolant, this is the best place to pull BTU's from a hot engine.

Try this and see what your results are. It does make a difference even at high driving speeds where you would think the "RAM" air passing through the radiator would be sufficient. It would be great to get some user input on how well this simple push of the "Right Arrow - Cruise Cancel" buttons work with a Tazer JL Mini installed. I should note that the "Transmission Temp" will jump to at least 229° or higher when you turn on the cooling mode. It will drop to normal when you turn off this feature. This is how I know the fan is on high speed when on the highway and otherwise cannot hear it.

And yes, I do have the 940w fan on my December 2020 build.

Jeep Gladiator Diesel cooling options and ideas 318
 

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MPMB

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If I were worried about heat, which I'm not, but if I were this would be the route to take. Hood vents (heat rises) and manual control of the engine fan.
Someone has made the hood vents (cut out the rubi faux-vents) and it had minimal effect on temps.

Scoops (ram style) only work if the air is directed to cool something. Having a scoop without ductwork underneath is a waste of money and the scoop remains decorative instead of functional.

So if you wanted to make the scoops functional, the best solution would be to buy small oil coolers, mount them horizontally above the valve covers, under the scoops, and build a box from the cooler to the hood to seal the airflow.

Airflow is kept at maximum speed with the fewest number of bends.
 
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Try this and see what your results are. It does make a difference even at high driving speeds where you would think the "RAM" air passing through the radiator would be sufficient. It would be great to get some user input on how well this simple push of the "Right Arrow - Cruise Cancel" buttons work with a Tazer JL Mini installed. I should note that the "Transmission Temp" will jump to at least 229° or higher when you turn on the cooling mode. It will drop to normal when you turn off this feature. This is how I know the fan is on high speed when on the highway and otherwise cannot hear it.

QUOTE]

Any clue why the transmission temp would go up?
 

Hondo1

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it doesn’t, that’s how theTazeris tricking the ecm for fan control.
 

bigjmain

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If I were worried about heat, which I'm not, but if I were this would be the route to take. Hood vents (heat rises) and manual control of the engine fan.
So vent or scoop? They both function very differently DONT they?
 

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WXman

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So vent or scoop? They both function very differently DONT they?
Yeah I was referring to a vent. There is no way a proper vent could not help. It would allow a lot of the heat to escape.

My truck is a lease but if I buy it from Chrysler Capital in a couple of years I'll cut my hood up and install vents.
 
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jeepin48

jeepin48

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Why would the trans temp go up when the fan was on?
 

bigjmain

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Yeah I was referring to a vent. There is no way a proper vent could not help. It would allow a lot of the heat to escape.

My truck is a lease but if I buy it from Chrysler Capital in a couple of years I'll cut my hood up and install vents.
Which ones would work the best and not have to worry about rain getting in…
 

WXman

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Which ones would work the best and not have to worry about rain getting in…
I haven't researched it yet for Jeeps. Typically there are some with rain drains in them.
 

staying_tuned

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I should have clarified my statement, cost is a big issue. Can you come up with something better for a reasonable price that the typical JT owner will be able to afford?
Not sure what you’d consider affordable but a quality front mounted intercooler with piping/couplers/meth bungs etc. goes for $700-ish for the first year then drops to like $500 once competition is in play, which on our platform will certainly be a factor. $500 to address an issue isn’t awesome but the lowered IATs are great peace of mind plus if you’re a tuning fan, the colder/denser air can be utilized for moar powah : )
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