Eco diesel Suspension bottoming out on normal roads

[Gruffid]

Took me about two hours and then another half hour because I didn’t read the directions clearly. It really was quite easy. My first test drive out to the Johnson Valley revealed a world of difference. I use the Taser to disconnect the front sway barAnd was able to travel at very high speeds on the desert roads just like a Mojave. Good luck.

@Barbarian

I just watched a video of a bump stop install. Did it really take you only 2.5 hours to remove your springs, cut the bump stop tube, install the new bump stops, then reinstall the springs?

it looks a lot more intimidating and involved in the video.

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[Rubiman]

Hi there. If you haven't already, please send our team a private message with more details on your concerns and we will assist. I apologize for the delay up front as our system isn't pulling in messages from this forum so I will get to it as soon as I can! Thank you for your patience.

Kate
Jeep Cares

Makes no difference, no answer for months.

 

[Barbarian]

Yep I did it at my shop on a Saturday morning. Raise the truck on a two post lift, remove both front tires, remove the swaybar and lower shock bolts removed the two brackets that hold the brake lines and ABS sensors lower the left side first With a transmission jack. I wasn’t interrupted and I kind of had an idea how hard it would be from a previous install on my TJ. The extra time was having to drop them back out and cut another half inch because I didn’t read the directions. The hardest part is signing off the old steel stockholders to the correct length but since we do lots of fabrication I have lots of tools to make those things easier. I will say again that jeep could’ve solve this was a one or 1 1/2 inch longer front spring and Mojave bumps stops. I wound up setting the spring perches at a one and three-quarter inch lift which gave me about 3 1/2 inches of up travel. It also took an extra five minutes to adjust the headlights which I didn’t include. .I also set the nitrogen charge at 1:25 psi after I’ve driven it for a week or so. So I’d say for me 2 1/2 hours was just right trying to do it on your garage floor would take probably four or five. Hope this helps until Jeepcomes up with a fix.

 

[PackMule]

Yep I did it at my shop on a Saturday morning. Raise the truck on a two post lift, remove both front tires, remove the swaybar and lower shock bolts removed the two brackets that hold the brake lines and ABS sensors lower the left side first With a transmission jack. I wasn’t interrupted and I kind of had an idea how hard it would be from a previous install on my TJ. The extra time was having to drop them back out and cut another half inch because I didn’t read the directions. The hardest part is signing off the old steel stockholders to the correct length but since we do lots of fabrication I have lots of tools to make those things easier. I will say again that jeep could’ve solve this was a one or 1 1/2 inch longer front spring and Mojave bumps stops. I wound up setting the spring perches at a one and three-quarter inch lift which gave me about 3 1/2 inches of up travel. It also took an extra five minutes to adjust the headlights which I didn’t include. .I also set the nitrogen charge at 1:25 psi after I’ve driven it for a week or so. So I’d say for me 2 1/2 hours was just right trying to do it on your garage floor would take probably four or five. Hope this helps until Jeepcomes up with a fix.

Thanks for the details on the install. I agree that jeep could solve this with slightly longer springs and Mojave bumps. Other than having to cut the bump mounts, I like this solution you've done because of the adjustability of the spacer portion of the bumps, you have a solution that is not throw away if you do get slightly longer springs in the future. And the performance of the hydraulic jounce on higher speed bumpy trails is likely quite an improvement.

 

[PackMule]

Yep I did it at my shop on a Saturday morning. Raise the truck on a two post lift, remove both front tires, remove the swaybar and lower shock bolts removed the two brackets that hold the brake lines and ABS sensors lower the left side first With a transmission jack. I wasn’t interrupted and I kind of had an idea how hard it would be from a previous install on my TJ. The extra time was having to drop them back out and cut another half inch because I didn’t read the directions. The hardest part is signing off the old steel stockholders to the correct length but since we do lots of fabrication I have lots of tools to make those things easier. I will say again that jeep could’ve solve this was a one or 1 1/2 inch longer front spring and Mojave bumps stops. I wound up setting the spring perches at a one and three-quarter inch lift which gave me about 3 1/2 inches of up travel. It also took an extra five minutes to adjust the headlights which I didn’t include. .I also set the nitrogen charge at 1:25 psi after I’ve driven it for a week or so. So I’d say for me 2 1/2 hours was just right trying to do it on your garage floor would take probably four or five. Hope this helps until Jeepcomes up with a fix.

Is the 3.5" of uptravel to where the jounce engages, or when the jounce is fully compressed? For comparison, stock bumps on the JTRD are ~ 1.5" uptravel to engage, and 2 5/8" uptravel to fully compress.

How is your rake after the install? Sounds like you are more flat now, and didn't do any spacing in the rear, since you had to adjust the headlights.

 

[Gruffid]

Yep I did it at my shop on a Saturday morning. Raise the truck on a two post lift, remove both front tires, remove the swaybar and lower shock bolts removed the two brackets that hold the brake lines and ABS sensors lower the left side first With a transmission jack. I wasn’t interrupted and I kind of had an idea how hard it would be from a previous install on my TJ. The extra time was having to drop them back out and cut another half inch because I didn’t read the directions. The hardest part is signing off the old steel stockholders to the correct length but since we do lots of fabrication I have lots of tools to make those things easier. I will say again that jeep could’ve solve this was a one or 1 1/2 inch longer front spring and Mojave bumps stops. I wound up setting the spring perches at a one and three-quarter inch lift which gave me about 3 1/2 inches of up travel. It also took an extra five minutes to adjust the headlights which I didn’t include. .I also set the nitrogen charge at 1:25 psi after I’ve driven it for a week or so. So I’d say for me 2 1/2 hours was just right trying to do it on your garage floor would take probably four or five. Hope this helps until Jeepcomes up with a fix.

Thanks for the details. I hate cutting metal, but for those out there willing to commit, it looks like it’s the best option to mitigate the problem.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Spending the money on hydraulic bumps to fix this issue is the stupidest thing I've read here in a while.......

The fix is a 1" taller spring with preferably a slightly higher rate and a decent shock to control the movement to increase bump spacing. A spacer with a better shock would also work. I suppose if you refuse to lift the front and will never run bigger tires, lthen cutting the front bump tubes could be a solution assuming the axle wont hit the oil pan?

I ran 1.75" shock/spring spacers and the OE Fox shocks with a MetalCloak DuroSpring Bumpstop as a decent solution to limit travel for 37's on a Rubi. I'm now on Evo 4" JK springs that give me a net 2" lift with the OE steel bumper and Zeon 10S winch and it works pretty darn good especially since adding the Fox 2.5 Elite series shocks to control the movement when driving at a faster pace.

I'm thinking 3" front lift will be perfect to clear the tire, allow another 1" of up travel, and provide that bump gap I need to soak up the bigger bumps.

 

[Gruffid]

Spending the money on hydraulic bumps to fix this issue is the stupidest thing I've read here in a while.......

The fix is a 1" taller spring with preferably a slightly higher rate and a decent shock to control the movement to increase bump spacing. A spacer with a better shock would also work. I suppose if you refuse to lift the front and will never run bigger tires, lthen cutting the front bump tubes could be a solution assuming the axle wont hit the oil pan?

I ran 1.75" shock/spring spacers and the OE Fox shocks with a MetalCloak DuroSpring Bumpstop as a decent solution to limit travel for 37's on a Rubi. I'm now on Evo 4" JK springs that give me a net 2" lift with the OE steel bumper and Zeon 10S winch and it works pretty darn good especially since adding the Fox 2.5 Elite series shocks to control the movement when driving at a faster pace.

I'm thinking 3" front lift will be perfect to clear the tire, allow another 1" of up travel, and provide that bump gap I need to soak up the bigger bumps.

so, you’re saying the 2” lift I currently have should solve all of our problems over and above what you’re suggesting is sufficient, since that’s an extra inch more than what prescribe?

Yeah… maybe keep the “stupidest thing I’ve ever read here in awhile” comments to yourself. Especially since, based on my first-hand experience, you are clearly wrong about what a minimum effort fix will accomplish.

My observations are based on both pre and post MOPAR 2” lift JTRD.

 

[CrazyCooter]

so, you’re saying the 2” lift I currently have should solve all of our problems over and above what you’re suggesting is sufficient, since that’s an extra inch more than what prescribe?

Yeah… maybe keep the “stupidest thing I’ve ever read here in awhile” comments to yourself. Especially since, based on my first-hand experience, you are clearly wrong about what a minimum effort fix will accomplish.

My observations are based on both pre and post MOPAR 2” lift JTRD.

It really depends on what your goal is? The minimum required to fix it with stock sized tires, or minimum required with oversized tires, or in my case traveling in the desert 100s of miles per day at moderate speeds on 37s.

Many dont see the need to do anything as is, but I could touch the stops on 2 lane highways with rolling hills. Better shocks and 1" more bump spacing fixed that. Seems like listening to the air bumps tapping the axle in town would get annoying? That leads us back to increasing the bump spacing?

I do have rear Fox air bumps installed and a set of fronts on the shelf that I was waiting to install when the lift kit i want becomes available for the diesel.

 

[Barbarian]

I wound up with 3 1/2 inches of up travel to fully compress. The hydraulic bump stops were planned from the beginning as I love them on my TJ. Just seemed like a simple solution for now that made the vehicle better without too much effort. I may wind up putting Three-quarter inch spacers in the rear. But it still has a slight rake right now.

 

[Barbarian]

I cut the steelbump stops off in order to install adjustable front hydraulic stops. The limit of uptravel is exactly the same as stock. No hitting of frame or oil pan. All of this made my vehicle more capable and fun without having to do a complete suspension change. Stupid improvement ?

 

[OrangeCJ]

And so what was the reply from @JeepCares (doesn't)

Still nuthin

 

[Free2roam]

Still nuthin

Yeah pretty much the same thing.

 

[msrebel]

Yeah pretty much the same thing.

Kate asked me if I have reported it to my dealer, which I haven't. I will raise it to them at my first oil change in a few weeks...

 

[CreepyJeepy]

Man dirt road with lots of potholes today…
Pretty sure my Jeep has worse suspension than a 70s Volvo.

Before next summer I’ll be doing the mopar lift, geometry correction, an upgraded stabilizer, and hydraulic bump stops.

Wish I didn’t have to spend this money, but it’s that bad.

The fiancé road with me and said I should just return the Jeep

If you don’t have a diesel, you don’t get it. The front end sucks.

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