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28,000 mile Rear Diff Fluid Change

Hootbro

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Do they run the factory gears through a REM-like polishing, negating a break-in process?
No clue, but I suspect DANA does not if they offer their aftermarket sold axles with the 500 mile break in gear oil change recommendation. To DANA, the 500 mile gear oil change is also a gear inspection which means the cover off also.

I imagine that would be a added expense that most OEM's like Jeep would not want and only cares that the axle makes it through the warranty period.
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SIO2GA

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Hi all, this thread has inspired me to change out my rear diff fluid. I was disappointed to learn that there isn't a drain plug. Does anyone know if changing the cover will void the warranty? The one I've settled on is the ARB cover (pictured below). I figure that I'll take it to the local shop to add the cover that has the drain plug and after that I'll do the fluid changes myself.
I called the dealership to ask what they would charge to change the fluid and was shocked at the way they took my question when I told them I had 23,000 miles on my Jeep. "Why do you want do change the fluid? It doesn't need to be changed until 120,000 miles". That was really their response. And their price to change out the fluid? $289.
In addition to my question about if the cover would void the warranty (I can always put the old one back on if I have axle troubles and have to make a claim), I am wondering if it will hurt to use mobil 1 75w`140 in the rear diff?
I live in the Southeast, Georgia, and make many long haul trips to Arizona and load my truck up to capacity. I also drive to other states (last trip was New Jersey) and buy a truck load of materials. So I have day-long stretches on the highway and often with the max 1,000 pound payload in the bed. I haul in the summer a good bit so I'm thinking the 75w140 is the way to go?
I tried to find a gear oil without "LS" or limited slip friction modifiers added and had no luck finding anything other than Redline. I spent way too much time searching and decided to just go with Mobil 1 after reading others experience with it and things like valvoline in the bags.
Jeep Gladiator 28,000 mile Rear Diff Fluid Change arb-rear-fifferential-cover
 

Hootbro

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Hi all, this thread has inspired me to change out my rear diff fluid. I was disappointed to learn that there isn't a drain plug. Does anyone know if changing the cover will void the warranty? The one I've settled on is the ARB cover (pictured below). I figure that I'll take it to the local shop to add the cover that has the drain plug and after that I'll do the fluid changes myself.
I called the dealership to ask what they would charge to change the fluid and was shocked at the way they took my question when I told them I had 23,000 miles on my Jeep. "Why do you want do change the fluid? It doesn't need to be changed until 120,000 miles". That was really their response. And their price to change out the fluid? $289.
In addition to my question about if the cover would void the warranty (I can always put the old one back on if I have axle troubles and have to make a claim), I am wondering if it will hurt to use mobil 1 75w`140 in the rear diff?
I live in the Southeast, Georgia, and make many long haul trips to Arizona and load my truck up to capacity. I also drive to other states (last trip was New Jersey) and buy a truck load of materials. So I have day-long stretches on the highway and often with the max 1,000 pound payload in the bed. I haul in the summer a good bit so I'm thinking the 75w140 is the way to go?
I tried to find a gear oil without "LS" or limited slip friction modifiers added and had no luck finding anything other than Redline. I spent way too much time searching and decided to just go with Mobil 1 after reading others experience with it and things like valvoline in the bags.
arb-rear-fifferential-cover.JPG
What? You don’t have a drain plug in the rear, bottom portion of the diff?
 

whiteglad

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I used the 1/4" thick covers from CavFab and Motobilt, drilled and tapped for 1/8" NPT drain plugs. I prefer grade 12.9 Allen head M8x1.25 bolts and torque about 24 ft-lb. Lesser grade bolts should be taken to only about 18 ft-lb. Some specs show 30 ft-lb but that would be appropriate for 3/8" or 10 mm bolts.

Drain plugs were deleted by Dana around 2021.
 

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Hootbro

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What? You don’t have a drain plug in the rear, bottom portion of the diff?
DANA started to phase out the drain plugs in both front/rear starting in mid 2021.
 

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DANA started to phase out the drain plugs in both front/rear starting in mid 2021.
It does make sense, the more I learn about when and why you service a differential the less I see the need for a drain plug. Basically, if you need to change the fluid you also need to look at the guts.
 

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It does make sense, the more I learn about when and why you service a differential the less I see the need for a drain plug. Basically, if you need to change the fluid you also need to look at the guts.
I don't think it makes sense at all. It sure will discourage many people from a simple drain and fill which would be a lot better than nothing. Plus, with no drain hole it raises the cost of fluid changes if you have to take it to a shop. Instead of a simple drain hole there's 14 bolts to take the cover off and shops will charge a half hour labor, extra. That lack of a drain hole is probably discouraging/ preventing a lot of fluid changes. It looks like a shameful cost savings move from the manufacturer to me.
 

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This is just informational. I changed my rear diff fluid today in my Mojave and man I am glad I did it. The oil was very dark. Definitely had some shavings on the fill plug. “My 2022 Mojave doesn’t have a drain plug” I filled it until it started coming out of the drain hole. Let it sit there and drip for a while before I buttoned it back up. I did a lot of towing last summer and I have been off road a few times. Highly recommend doing it before 30k miles.
I did mine yesterday at 20k. It was practically brand new. I'll leave it be for awhile this time.
 

Hootbro

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It does make sense, the more I learn about when and why you service a differential the less I see the need for a drain plug. Basically, if you need to change the fluid you also need to look at the guts.
I know the front diffs with the drain plug on the bottom took a beating when trailed hard off road and remember a few on the JL side reporting leaking or inability to take the plug out due to material rash. Rear, not so much.

I am sure it is a combination of saving money where pennies turn into millions saved over time in cost reduction and as you stated, forces the opportunity for gear inspection when the fluid changed and the cover is off.

I do wish the drain plug was still on mine for the rear though. I have even debated getting the balls to drill and tap and put my own NPT drain plug in the legacy location on the rear.
 

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whiteglad

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Here are the insides of my covers with 1/8 NPT plugs installed:

Jeep Gladiator 28,000 mile Rear Diff Fluid Change 101_2178 (2)a.JPG
 

Gmac03

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I’ve been noticing a slight whine during low speed turns. I have the Willy’s trim, assuming that is the LSD. I plan on swapping out the rear diff fluid during my 35k oil change (currently at 32k).

Any reason not to?

Thanks, great thread.
 
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Jobofly

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My purpose for this thread was informational. It definitely won’t hurt to change it at 35,000 miles. Since I am no longer towing a camper (sold it) I will probably wait until I hit 60,000 miles before I change it again. I still plan on doing the front diff and transfer case in the next few weeks.
 

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Ya I did mine at 5k when new, just seemed right vs waiting till 40k.
 

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I changed my diff oil at 8000 miles when I installed the ARB covers. Then it got changed again at 14000 when the 4.88s were installed with the REM polish. I should be good for a while.
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