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Aux Delete- Lets see how it goes.

ecidiego

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I ran an Optima on my LJ. Good battery. I just wanted to do the odyssey thing this time to see if there was a quality difference.
Optima hasn't been the same since Johnson Controls bought them and moved production to Mexico. Odyssey and X2 Prime are Northstar based and good. Enersys makes them.
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ShadowsPapa

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Optima hasn't been the same since Johnson Controls bought them and moved production to Mexico. Odyssey and X2 Prime are Northstar based and good. Enersys makes them.
I've heard that as well - the quality between them has sort of flipped, trading first place.
 

BambiBasher

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I just did mine today. Truck would not start without jumping it so I bit the bullet and grabbed an “Odyssey Alternative” and pulled both the main and the Aux. I have had great luck with Optima. I taped up the pos and neg of the Aux and pulled Fuse 42. So far no codes or lights.



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Where do you get the extra buss bar from?
 

dcs1779

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Where do you get the extra buss bar from?
EPIC Adventure Outfitters, they are in Canada so shipping took a little longer. Super happy with it as it gives all kinds of places to install. Mine could still use some cleaning up.
 

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DanJT

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gonemad

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Im getting 12.8 under load and 14.3 when coasting. I haven’t looked at it in ACC mode. Maybe I should.
No, do not.
Not a challenge, but just a question. Why not? Is the voltage reading in ACC mode not accurate? Mine reads 12.4-12.5 in ACC mode, engine off.

Should I be checking the battery at the terminals when the vehicle is off?

This whole two battery system has spooked me since I found out about it two hours after I bought my previous Gladiator two years ago. I have 2.5 years warranty left on my ’25 JT, and reluctant to fool too much with wiring while it is in warranty.

That said, I would do the aux delete in a heartbeat.
 

gonemad

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Maybe I answered my own question above. I drove about an 60-90 minutes earlier today, city and highway. 30-40 minutes one way, then 30-40 minutes back.

Jeep info screen says 12.4-12.5 volts in accessory mode with engine off. Battery tester on the battery terminals says 12.8 with everything off.
 

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McRuss

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So...
I did the delete through the fender well, not bad. Battery is out and in storage (one of my bikes might need it someday..)
So now when I drive it daily, it reads 14.4 volts and maybe going down to 13.9 if a long drive. So I did not drive it yesterday (short drive, 14.4 V showing then) and today I checked the battery with a VOM: 12.26 volts. It starts every time, no lag, no indication of a problem. BUT the dash says "Start/Stop not working, check etc." and the little tell tale light is one (fuse has been pulled, no change.) Some say my primary battery is going but no indication of that.
So what is the issue?
Is it the battery or something else?
 

Mr._Bill

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So...
I did the delete through the fender well, not bad. Battery is out and in storage (one of my bikes might need it someday..)
So now when I drive it daily, it reads 14.4 volts and maybe going down to 13.9 if a long drive. So I did not drive it yesterday (short drive, 14.4 V showing then) and today I checked the battery with a VOM: 12.26 volts. It starts every time, no lag, no indication of a problem. BUT the dash says "Start/Stop not working, check etc." and the little tell tale light is one (fuse has been pulled, no change.) Some say my primary battery is going but no indication of that.
So what is the issue?
Is it the battery or something else?
That reading is low. Fully charged it should show 12.8 volts.

The indication that your battery is failing is right in front of you. The light on the dash and the message are warning you. With the F42 fuse pulled, the startup test is being done on the Main Battery, instead of the Aux, and it is failing.

Start by charging the battery and resetting the IBS. It may prolong the time until replacement is necessary.
 

Wat Dog

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I don’t know why we haven’t all switched to LiPo batteries. They operate at better temps provide more CCA and are about 1/3 the weight. My next battery I buy will be lithium for both
 
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Bandit’s Lair

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I don’t know why we haven’t all switched to LiPo batteries. They operate at better temps provide more CCA and are about 1/3 the weight. My next battery I buy will be lithium for both
I agree with this in theory. I was planning on waiting a bit to see how the technology goes with vehicle batteries. To my knowledge they’re still fairly new (read stupid expensive) in the vehicle world.
 

Wat Dog

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I agree with this in theory. I was planning on waiting a bit to see how the technology goes with vehicle batteries. To my knowledge they’re still fairly new (read stupid expensive) in the vehicle world.
Have you priced an Optima battery? The difference between a yellow top and LiPo isn’t very much
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